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Thread: SawStop contractor saw: Pros and Cons.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
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    943
    If the choice is between a Sawstop Contractor Saw and another brand's cabinet saw, I would admit it is a little tempting to choose the other brand's cabinet saw because I'm sure there is some price differential with all the saws on the market these days. When comparing cabinet saws across manufacturers, Sawstop's PCS is a very high quality saw at a comparable price to Powermatic or another high quality brand. There there is the safety issue, on which I have never been able to put a price. If the choice is between two saws and the only difference besides price is the SS safety brake, I think that that is a huge plus for Sawstop. I don't use my table saw all that much these days and opted for the SS Jobsite Saw; not a powerful as their cabinet saws nor probably quite as accurate, but it is what worked in my basement shop. I will never regret the purchase. It's 1.75 HP motor is large enough that I do not encounter any insurmountable ripping problems. Dust collection is good and I'm sure much better on the cabinet saws. Accuracy is way above most saws and, again, much better on the larger saws. Plus, I am now upgrading the miter gauge with an Incra Miter Express and that should bring accuracy to an even higher lever. While I've tripped the brake once due because I ran an aluminum miter fence into the blade without thinking, I did not mind the replacement of the blade and brake cartridge. It was dumb mistake which I doubt I'll now repeat and, it reminded me that fingers can get into the blade with the same speed as the fence did. There was no damage to the fence at all and there would have been little or no damage to my fingers if they had been in the way. To me, that coupled with the fact that Sawstop does make high quality saws, makes it worth the price. I do know someone who had the SS contractor saw and is also satisfied with it. So the model saw you buy is up to you based on your needs, but you don't need the highest power saw on the market unless you are a production guy. Woodworkers who do this as a hobby can easily use a 1.75 HP saw and do whatever they need to do; at least I can even with the Jobsite saw.

  2. #32
    I have only used two different table saws in my lifetime. The first one was a Jet cabinet saw that belongs to the shed shop where my dad works. The other is my Sawstop contractor saw. My saw stop is way better. Now, the Jet saw is a very old saw that has seen a lot of use(and abuse), but my saw stop is a huge improvement. The safety is great but even without the safety I think it rivals any cabinet saw. The fence is rock solid(I mean, you could just about pick up the whole saw by it's fence) and square to the blade without adjustment. I also like the quick change blade guard and riving knife. The only con with the saw stop is if you set off the brake cartridge, you're out a 100 bucks or more, but what's that to a finger?

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    I don't the Saw Stop is a gimmick at all....it works. However, there is a steep premium to pay for it, and only you can determine if that's a good value to you.

    At the price level of the SS contractor saw, it's clearly not the most saw you can get for the money. In its stock configuration it comes with an outboard motor, steel wings, and a fairly modest fence. If you add cast iron wings and the T-Glide fence, you're well into $2k territory. IMHO, the PCS with the T-Glide fence upgrade offers better value....more money for sure, but you get a more substantial saw.

    If you want the most saw for the dollar, a good used cabinet saw will be tough to beat. Even a new saw like a Grizzly G1023RL or G0690 offer a more substantial saw for < $2k. That's where you need to decide what the safety feature on the Saw Stop means to you. Do you want the most saw for the money, or do you want the safest saw? I fully understand budget constraints, but I wouldn't want to spend that much on a saw and feel as though I was making do with a saw that was just adequate.
    Last edited by scott spencer; 02-09-2018 at 7:00 AM.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    859
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    Correct.
    Follow the instructions laid out in the manual
    to check for and prevent any potential misfires.

    Since a misfire causes money, it gives me incentives to be careful with my saw regardless of the safety feature.

    If you do trigger the ss with your body part, send the saw and cartridge to SS for a free cartridge after they have analyzed and verified your incident.

    Simon
    That's good to know. It would be a shame to lose a blade but I figure on having extra blades around anyway.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    859
    I've made my decision to go SawStop but I'll wait for the spring promotions. I'll make the final decision between the contractor and a PCS at that time.

    I definitely want the upgraded fence and 36" extension. Would love to have the cast iron but that will be decided on based on the promotions they have going on.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    3,495
    Blog Entries
    1
    I had a Jet contractor saw & moved up to a SawStop PCS 3 HP. These are my thoughts. As far as safety goes, the blade brake is great, but it didn't really factor into my decision (but then I've never cut my fingers off). There are those who say you buy a SawStop for that feature, but I disagree. I bought it for the quality of build & the great riving knife & dust collecting guard. The brake is just a bonus.

    To me a good riving knife & guard is a more important safety feature than the brake. Go look at the different saws. How easy is it to change out the riving knife & guard. If it isn't super easy & quick, then it might not get used as much as it should. The only times I haven't used either is when using a sled or cutting a dado. To switch between the guard & riving knife literally take just seconds.

    Check out the dust collection. It needs to be from below as well as from the top.

    For sure, a cabinet saw is nicer, but if budget is super tight the contractor saw will certainly do. I used them for may years & they did what was asked.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    Yes, the brake is a big deal, a really big deal.

    What is also a big deal? All those other safety features in newer saws, for example, a riven knife.

    I owned an older saw. It was nice, but it was old enough that it was missing some of those newer features. Couple that with my own ignorance, and I had a kick-back. Saw-Stop won't save you from that with their brake, but their other safety features, which you will find on any modern saw, will reduce the likelihood. Also, if during that kick-back your hand heads towards the blade, that is where the brake is useful.

    I currently own a non-contractor version of the saw stop. If my choices were contractor saw stop or very old iron missing certain safety features, I would go with the contractor saw stop. If I did end up with the "old iron", I would for sure find ways to mitigate, which you can do.

    If you have a more modern cabinet saw with things like a riven knife, things are less clear. I am told that a slider has some nice safety features, but I have never used one.

    I am risk adverse, and I have seen a couple of people laid up after some part of their hand hit the blade. It is what prompted me to get the Saw Stop.

  8. #38
    Marshal I'm glad you have made the decision to get a SawStop. I didn't say anything before since I don't want to offend anyone and don't want to sound "superior" but the fact that you have to ask makes me feel that a SawStop is a better fit for you now. A good older cabinet saw is a great machine in the hands of someone with experience or under the tutelage of one. A relative newcomer can get into serious trouble with any table saw because they may not understand they are doing something dangerous. The SawStop system will help protect you and you are lucky to have a wife that is encouraging you to get one. Just try to put your keys in the ignition of your car and start it without using your thumb.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Christensen View Post
    The SawStop system will help protect you and you are lucky to have a wife that is encouraging you to get one. Just try to put your keys in the ignition of your car and start it without using your thumb.
    Anything to do with this?

    https://image.slidesharecdn.com/wood...?cb=1389284745

    Joking, of course.

    Simon

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    The only times I haven't used either is when using a sled or cutting a dado. To switch between the guard & riving knife literally take just seconds.
    It is not necessary, but out of habit, when using the cross-cut sled, I replace the dust collection blade guard/riving knife with the stand-alone riving knife. Like you, the only time my ss does not have a riving knife in there is when the dado set is there. Of course, I still enjoy the protection of the SS.

    Some people have correctly pointed out that when you bypass the SS (for cutting wet wood or wood verified by the sensor test to be "wet"), SS users are exposed to the same degree of injury risk as any other non-SS saws. The key word there is "same", not more, AND the risk exists only when the user makes a conscious decision to turn off the SS feature. To be frank, the few times I had turned on the bypass, I felt pretty nervous and extremely alerted. This kind of alertness is a good thing.

    Of course, for those who prefer 100% "coverage," there is an option: use lumber that is not wet (and put the bypass key away, not accessible in your shop).

    Simon

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