I realize we are comparing apples to oranges.Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen
But I'm still left trying to decide if the SawStop feature makes up for stepping down to a contractor saw.
[OP]
Member
I realize we are comparing apples to oranges.
But I'm still left trying to decide if the SawStop feature makes up for stepping down to a contractor saw.
Contributor
My opinion is go with a cabinet saw, there is a night and day difference between a contractor saw and cabinet saw no matter what brand and if you really look at the foot print (size of room taken up) they are about equal.
Richard Poitras
Central, Michigan....
01-02-2006
Member
You mentioned the lack of a riving knife on a used Unisaw, which, to me, is as much if not more of a safety concern than a safety brake. The riving knife comes into play every time you rip a board.
That said, I'd say no, a SS Contractor is not a better saw than a traditional cabinet saw. It's in a different class. This is a distinction you may having trouble selling to your wife, depending on how well she understands woodworking.
It may be, though, that the SS Contractor would work fine for you. Because of space limitations, I use the SS Jobsite and find it to be an excellent tool, in its class.
Member
Yrs ago I purchase a Chevy Luv truck,it was nice and love it for about month.Before I had kids then I went down and purchase a full size truck.Point being as long as there is a step up you will always want it.Contractor saws yrs ago was made for moving to job sites and cabinet saws where made for shops.Check out the weight of each saw,look at the surface per sq in.And is there dust collector built into the saw,as much as those saws cost and if they are any good then should last you a life time.Main thing is get what you want and I bet you will be happy
Last edited by Carroll Courtney; 02-08-2018 at 5:37 PM.
Member
Living proof here: My SS PCS takes up pretty much the same spot as my old contractor saw. Because I have added the mobile base, the mobility of the 400lb+ monster is no more weaker than the previous contractor saw. I can move it out or back into the spot with one hand.
Simon
Contributor
If the question is " will a $1000 used unisaw or PM 66 be a better built saw than a $1600 Sawstop contractor saw " the answer is yes. The Uni or PM 66 may be a slightly heavier build than a PCS and an ICS will be a better build than a Uni. Does that offset the value of the brake cartridge, only you can decide. You don't buy the SS because it is the best built saw for the buck but because of the safety aspect. That also holds true for a million other purchases. If you aren't driving a car with a good crash rating, lots of airbags, and pre crash electronics, it could be argued that you should put the extra money or all the money into that. Whatever choice you make should be based on what you are comfortable with and can afford. The build differences are real but may be irrelevant for your amount of usage. Look at what your needs are and buy what makes you feel secure. Dave
Member
No question for me-- I would buy the SawStop Contractor before a used Unisaw/PM66.
You can upgrade the SS Contractor to cast iron wings. I've read elsewhere that the Contractor performs very well...about as well as the PCS 1.75 (which is what I bought simply because it is actually a bit more compact!)
I love having the 'airbags' there in case I screw up.
Member
I haven't checked it out but there is a recent thread about Contractor Saw vs Cabinet Saw which you can also check to help you understand the differences between the two types of saws before you decide.
If I were making a decision in your shoes, I would decide first if the SS feature is mandatory before I move to the next step. If it is not, then you can consider apples vs oranges. If it is, your choices would be limited to the different models of SawStop only (new or used). If you are in Canada, you can throw the Bosch Reaxx in the pool as well.
Simon
Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 02-08-2018 at 7:34 PM.
Contributor
I have the SS contractor saw with the cast iron wings and it feels very much like other cabinets saws I have used. It's stout, heavy and does not move at all. I bought it for the same reason, I really wanted a SS for the safety and I knew that it's a great machine. The cabinet saw was only about $700 more, but it was $700 too much. Bottom line is I love the saw, it does everything I need it to do and does it very well.
Member
Time for my $.02. I too am in market for a SS. Waiting till spring and their promotions.
I have a TS3650. Fantastic shape. Great guard/splitter. It meets my needs fully. So why looking to upgrade? I am very safety conscious. Every time I do something I double check what I am doing. Early on, had few kickbacks, but I learn and those incidents have all but stopped. Yes, still get few boo-boo's, especially using chisels, but overall feel very confident around saw. So why should I buy a new one when current is perfectly fine?
Over a year ago I got a micro jig grrper. Used it to make small rip on board. FIRST time using it. Set it up. Measured everything. Did test run over blade. Rechecked everything. While felt uncomfortable with hand over blade without guard, I know the jig is there to protect me. Ok, here we go...I made my cut. And accident. One thing I didn't consider in all my safety checks was the small cut was just big enough to go between blade and insert (I didn't have zero-clearance installed) and as I applied pressure going over blade, board tilted into that opening. Jig tilted and hit blade and I remember why I had considered SS many times over years. No, hand was safe. But easily could have been different. SS safety is NOT there to replace other safety practices. But it is an extra safety device. I would take a SS, contractor or PCS (my goal) over any other brand simply for this reason. Do I need new TS? No. Do I want to spend the money? No. But knowing a mistake can happen even to the best of us at anytime, I value my hands and safety more.
You never know when an accident will happen. YES, most accidents are user caused. We all learn and minimize that risk, but it only takes one minor overlook of something or distraction or unknown variable to trigger an accident. As Simon said, it is simply insurance like safety devices in a car, but would you prefer to go with a car with sunroof but no seatbelt or airbag vs one that is just as reliable, but with a seatbelt and air bags? If your neighbor were to asked to use your saw for a quick project, what would be your answer?
[OP]
Member
Thanks Roger, Simon and David.
I think the SS feature along with a riving knife are important to me. I think I'll like having the "air bags" available. I'll make a trip to the local Woodcraft store this weekend to check out the SS contractor. I would love to have the cast iron wings but I can always add then sometime later.
Just made a $3200 payment to the IRS today so I'll be waiting some before I can get any table saw.
Member
That ones easy. "No, I earn a living with my tools. Would you like a quote on something?"
Member
If your schedule permits, try going there at a time when they have a "live" demo on (usually on Saturdays). Not only could you ask questions regarding the different models (pros and cons), you could also get a feel of their actual sizes, mobility, dust collection features, different fences, etc. The standard blade guard and the dust collection blade are different animals and the latter makes a huge difference.
One thing to remember: SS usually comes well within its stated tolerance. If you want to adjust the saw to meet YOUR level of tolerance, it is easier to do the adjustments on a cabinet saw than on a contractor saw since the latter's trunnion is mounted on the table, not on the cabinet. Very few people I know know how to finetune the adjustments on a contractor saw properly, regardless of brand.
SawStop runs a periodic promotion, giving you a free mobile base or a free overarm dust collection. That is a good time to buy a SS saw. as long as you continue to exercise caution and follow all safety procedures, there is no reason to rush into your decision.
Simon
Member
Just remember with a saw stop you have added expense if you do trigger the brake. New blade and new brake. Also it will only work if it is turned on. Doing tables you may work with wood that is wet or has metal in it. Just bringing these points to life with the SawStop saws. I believe careful use of jigs and proper technique will always win out. Your money have at it.
John T.
Member
Correct.
Follow the instructions laid out in the manual
to check for and prevent any potential misfires.
Since a misfire causes money, it gives me incentives to be careful with my saw regardless of the safety feature.
If you do trigger the ss with your body part, send the saw and cartridge to SS for a free cartridge after they have analyzed and verified your incident.
Simon
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