Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 19

Thread: Is my router big enough?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504

    Is my router big enough?

    I am getting ready to start building some new end tables for my wife. In a pull out drawer, there will be an inset/recess for storing remotes, etc. I just ordered a MLCS Katana 1 1/4" diameter bowl and tray bit. I have an older 2 1/2 hp PC plunge router. Will it have the horse power to spin this bit and cut red oak when plunging with it? Should I predrill a hole to start the process? The bit has a pattern bearing so I intend on make a pattern our of 1/4" hardboard.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,926
    Ken

    How deep/thick is the material?
    You probably won't get it one pass, but progressively plunging it should do it for you.
    I've never personally had luck with pre drilling the waste. The router bit catches on the edges of the pre drilled holes and causes issues. I typically do light, multiple passes, it's easier on the hands.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    N.E, Ohio
    Posts
    3,026
    I would agree with Mike multiple passes should handle it.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    It should be fine, and will let you know when you're pushing it too hard.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Multiple passes, for sure, if you use that particular bit for the whole process, but you can also rough out the majority of the stock with a regular straight and/or spiral bit so that the final cuts with the new cutter require less work.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,876
    any bit with a bottom bearing requires a starter hole?
    Bill D

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    Bill,

    This bit has a top bearing.

    https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop..._bowltray.html
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    Ken, pre-drilling a start hole is a good idea if it is larger than the cutter. You could do this with a straight cutter. Your router should have enough power to do this as the other guys have said. Does your router have a speed control? A cutter this big will need maybe 12-13000rpm max. Also, a cutter this size has a fair bit of kick so light cuts are in order. Cheers
    Every construction obeys the laws of physics. Whether we like or understand the result is of no interest to the universe.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Lomman View Post
    Ken, pre-drilling a start hole is a good idea if it is larger than the cutter. You could do this with a straight cutter. Your router should have enough power to do this as the other guys have said. Does your router have a speed control? A cutter this big will need maybe 12-13000rpm max. Also, a cutter this size has a fair bit of kick so light cuts are in order. Cheers
    Thanks Wayne!

    My router does have a speed control and I had completely forgot about slowing down to compensate for the bit size. I will use light cuts.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,876
    When I do dovetails I use a cheaper carbide endmill set a little high to rough out 75% of the wood. It goes quicker with two routers and saves the expensive dovetail bit after I snapped one in my early days of wwing.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    I pre-drill the bulk of the waste without issue. Making the bit do the full bulk of the work will cause unnecessary wear and heat up IMHO . Take the spur into account when setting the depth of the Forstner. I use a 1-1/4" Forstner and drill to a depth about 1/4" less than my final depth. The Forstner format allows you to overlap holes so you can really remove the bulk of the waste fairly close to the final shape if there are not a lot of tight corners.

    I then attach a large piece of material in place of the router plate. This temporary plate should be large enough to span the opening with the bit at any extreme edge location. I start with an 1/16" depth of cut just ot get a feel for where everything is. I then take an 1/8" bite and finish with another 1/16" bite to get my near final depth. Sanding with a pad in a drill motor working through the grits gets you to a finish ready surface pretty quickly.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 02-07-2018 at 9:07 AM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Cedarburg, WI
    Posts
    185
    However, never do a new project that doesn’t require at least one new tool, bits don’t count.
    Cheers, Bill Fleming

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    6,979
    However, never do a new project that doesn’t require at least one new tool, bits don’t count.
    I have to second that!!!!

    Anyhow - - all kidding aside - - The Big Triton is just adored by it's owners, mainly for table use but, no reason to think it's not a great plunge router. That extra HP really makes a difference.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,551
    I'll bet that router will have enough power, just do shallow cuts and reduce the speed. People use 2.5 h.p. routers to spin 3" panel raising bits so a 1.25" bowl bit shouldn't pose that much of a challenge, just don't try to do it all in one pass. As far as speed, Wood Magazine has a speed vs. diameter chart here.
    It looks like 16 - 18 K RPM should work. Don't forget to make your template thick enough that the bit's bearing will contact the template while on top of the work piece.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    I'll bet that router will have enough power, just do shallow cuts and reduce the speed. People use 2.5 h.p. routers to spin 3" panel raising bits so a 1.25" bowl bit shouldn't pose that much of a challenge, just don't try to do it all in one pass. As far as speed, Wood Magazine has a speed vs. diameter chart here.
    It looks like 16 - 18 K RPM should work. Don't forget to make your template thick enough that the bit's bearing will contact the template while on top of the work piece.
    Interesting. The manufacturer recommends 13000. Cheers

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •