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Thread: Checking my veneer thought process

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Posts
    158
    Hey guys, thanks for all the ideas and advice. Veneering prior to assembly is not within my current capabilities. The edges of the hood have to be shaped by sanding in the same horizontal plane with the face installed in the curved position(the curves cause the mating angles to vary along the edge.)
    Peter, unfortunately the CNC is constrained by the skill of this operator. :-) I did use it to create the inner frame structure so the front and side curves are identical. It is also too late to avoid bondo. As a previous hobby experience included car restorations - I have a lot of experience with it. The corners are floating, but have been epoxied and have a rear fillet with fiberglass in the epoxy resin. I thought about trying titebond after the sticker shock I got with pricing on the epoxy for the veneer glue, but I'm sure that probably wont adhere to e polyester filler (bondo). What's the consensus about using a polyester resin (fiberglass resin) as the veneer glue?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #17
    Laminating resin works well enough on wood... It just has a fairly short pot time.. And a LOT of resin can soak into the wood... It can also soak into and through wood ESPECIALLY into endgrain - making the wood VERY blotchy (test on scrap ahead of time)... Clear is bad enough - quite a few laminating resins are blue, green, or brown - which look horrible when they soak into the wood.... Most resin also darkens wood kinda like a wood finish... I had some laminating resin soak about 1 foot up into endgrain.. Left a horrible blotchy mess. Ruined the whole piece.

    That's actually one of the beautiful things about proper wood glue - they already worked out these problems.... It is designed to size the wood - so it doesn't soak in and leave a blotchy mess or darken glue joints..

    As per usual - test on scrap....

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,937
    Quote Originally Posted by sean meltvedt View Post
    ...What's the consensus about using a polyester resin (fiberglass resin) as the veneer glue?
    IMHO polyester is an inferior wood glue. I use WEST epoxy.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  4. #19
    I think contact cement would work really well. I have veneered many things, some with curves and have always used contact cement without issue. I have never had any of the veneers lift and the bond is instant and permanent so no need to worry about how to clamp it down. Since your veneer is 3/32nd thick, I don't think the contact cement would soak through either..

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
    Posts
    2,365
    How about contact adhesive? With a thicker veneer there should not be any concerns with bleed-through. But if you do use contact adhesive, it would be a good idea to solicit some additional hands to place it in place on that curved surface.

  6. #21
    Sean after seeing the hood, have you considered painting it?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Posts
    158
    Robert-that is really not an option. My wife would be out to kill me if I did :-) I would attempt to source some PSA backed Makore as a last resort.
    Anyway I appreciate all the thought's and ideas that folks have posted.
    Thanks
    Sean

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Posts
    158
    Hey guys-just a progress update. I used Max’s suggestion of sandbags in addition to clamps using West systems epoxy. This is the workable result:
    0D1F6493-9520-4FCB-B9FE-CD90288BC131.jpg49AC191A-6F82-4FE2-980A-B72B9EE20F41.jpgCDF99BB0-C076-4A7D-A0CD-8892EFAF90F0.jpg

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Southwestern Penna.
    Posts
    329
    Looks very good.

  10. #25
    Contact cement is standard practice in commercial shops when bending things like this. No, it's not going to last 100 years. Yes, you will get good adhesion and a predictable, manageable lay-up.

  11. #26
    I agree the contact cement is often used. Don't agree it's a good idea on a material with a lot of spring-back. Call the help line for contact cement mfg ,they will tell you the FLAT surface bonds will last about 10 years on average.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,937
    MF--good post.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  13. #28
    35 years of experience in weird laminating, veneering and exotic adhesive use tells me that most advise here is good, but will add a few points: Contact cement is great on thick veneers like this, as long as its layed on thick and pressed thoroughly, but long grain spring back like Sean did is a little questionable, so glad he epoxied (I pictured the grain going opposite direction). Epoxy only needs veneering on one side. The old law of veneering both sides only applies to glues that shrink, or glueing to solid wood. Veneeriing one side of ply with epoxy is fine.
    The nice thing with epoxy, is that if Sean got voids from uneven pressure, he can syringe epoxy into the voids later.

    If you ever do this again, its much easier to veneer your curved parts ahead of time, while bending at same time. It doesn't take long at all to make a bending form, then glue up the bending plywood (3/8" bending luaun or multi layers of 1/8" BB plywood) and the veneer all in one glue up. Use a stiff caul over top made from 3/8" plywood faced in 1/2" styrofoam for even pressure, with 2 x 2 cleats on long edges to clamp at edges, no need to clamp middle as the stiff caul will be adequate pressure with epoxy.

    You can see the similar shape in the pcs below, and I used a 2" long flush trimmer to clean the edges prior to sanding, and made a custom hand held 6" DIA drum sander for sanding the concave surface (Upper central part of last pic).
    web-deco-U.JPGDecoU-avodire-lorez95%.JPGShapingTools.jpg
    john.blazy_dichrolam_llc
    Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.

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