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Thread: Make a planing stop

  1. #1
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    Make a planing stop

    Make your own planing stop. This took about 30 minutes to make and install ...





    It looks like an ordinary dog hole. 1" wide in O1 steel. Filed 8 ppi. Sharp like a saw.





    Used with a Doe's Foot ...








    .. or tail vise ...





    The extra grip over a bench dog is amazing! It grips so well that it is just as stable off centre ...





    Regards from Perth


    Derek

  2. #2
    These are versatile unitsP6140046.jpg
    I use them alone with nothing at the free end only a side stop when I'm hogging at an angle.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for posting, Derek. I’ve been consiering a planing stop for some time. I have to admit, the metal makes me nervous...but I suppose it’s just a matter of being a little careful.

    I also noticed you installed a dog on your leg vise with corresponding dog holes. Do you find you use that much? I’ve been considering that as well.

  4. #4
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    Hi Phil

    The doghole in the chop seemed a good idea at the time. Since then it has been used once or twice. Not an important idea.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #5
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    You have just increased the grip of the bench dog, moving the holding force to the very top of the dog. Normal angling of the dog 2 degrees in aims to do that as well but tapers the force from the top of the dog down.

    My first thought is why did you need to do this? If it's just about friction on the dog, could gluing that non slip step coating on the front face of the dog have been sufficient? This would keep all the force on the front face of the dog and require minimal dog hole alteration, or none if the dog face is recessed slightly. The 'teeth' would be smaller but larger in area.

    All the force is now on two small screws. I wonder if that will eventually split the dog or the screws pull out.
    Would a wider U shaped piece that fits around the dog be better, putting all the force on the front face of the dog? The U shape can have a toothed metal edge that is recessed to transmit the force, or a grip material. This U piece would be obviously wider than the dog, providing improved grip. You may need to make two of different depths.

    The force on a planing stop can be substantial during serious planing (such as a jack planing to size a board). Clearly dogs have their limitations. My preferred planing stop is a board clamped across the full width of the workbench. Some people have a wide piece on the end of their bench that slides up and is tightened with bolts. The stop across the full width of wood being planed provides the ideal. I find even these full width stops show serious wear and require replacement.
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by William Fretwell View Post
    You have just increased the grip of the bench dog, moving the holding force to the very top of the dog. Normal angling of the dog 2 degrees in aims to do that as well but tapers the force from the top of the dog down.

    My first thought is why did you need to do this? If it's just about friction on the dog, could gluing that non slip step coating on the front face of the dog have been sufficient? This would keep all the force on the front face of the dog and require minimal dog hole alteration, or none if the dog face is recessed slightly. The 'teeth' would be smaller but larger in area.

    All the force is now on two small screws. I wonder if that will eventually split the dog or the screws pull out.
    Would a wider U shaped piece that fits around the dog be better, putting all the force on the front face of the dog? The U shape can have a toothed metal edge that is recessed to transmit the force, or a grip material. This U piece would be obviously wider than the dog, providing improved grip. You may need to make two of different depths.

    The force on a planing stop can be substantial during serious planing (such as a jack planing to size a board). Clearly dogs have their limitations. My preferred planing stop is a board clamped across the full width of the workbench. Some people have a wide piece on the end of their bench that slides up and is tightened with bolts. The stop across the full width of wood being planed provides the ideal. I find even these full width stops show serious wear and require replacement.
    My thoughts are to refer you to Occam's Razor and/or the acronymn "KISS." If Derek has to replace his dog in, say, twenty/thirty years, he will probably think back to your suggestions and kick himself for not paying more attention. At that point, you will be granted one "I told you so!"
    Fair winds and following seas,
    Jim Waldron

  7. #7
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    You have just increased the grip of the bench dog, moving the holding force to the very top of the dog. Normal angling of the dog 2 degrees in aims to do that as well but tapers the force from the top of the dog down.

    My first thought is why did you need to do this? If it's just about friction on the dog, could gluing that non slip step coating on the front face of the dog have been sufficient? This would keep all the force on the front face of the dog and require minimal dog hole alteration, or none if the dog face is recessed slightly. The 'teeth' would be smaller but larger in area.

    All the force is now on two small screws. I wonder if that will eventually split the dog or the screws pull out.
    If the serrated piece is placed carefully, the work will still be against the face of the dog. The metal part will only penetrates a minute amount preventing any sideways movement.

    My bench has round dogs. At one time my solution was to drive a small nail through the dog so just a point stuck out to secure the work.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 02-04-2018 at 1:47 PM.
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  8. #8
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    My planing stop are round bench dogs. I also have a Veritas wonder dog. I have dog holes on 6" centers on the bench top.
    This allows me to secure pieces of wood to the bench top for planing or what ever.

  9. #9
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    [QUOTE=Jim Koepke;2773850]If the serrated piece is placed carefully, the work will still be against the face of the dog. The metal part will only penetrates a minute amount preventing any sideways movement.

    My bench has round dogs. At one time my solution was to drive a small nail through the dog so just a point stuck out to secure the work.
    jtk(/QUOTE).

    I see Lee Valley have those plastic muzzles for round dogs. The ribs on the front increase friction but do keep the force on the front face of the dog. It's true for many woods the metal serrations of Derek's dog will sink in and the dog will still apply force.
    The KISS principle would apply even better to glued on step grip, what could be simpler?
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  10. #10
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    jointed rails.jpg
    K.
    IMG_2974 (640x480).jpg
    I.
    big clamp.jpg
    S.
    IMG_2973 (640x480).jpg
    S.

    And yes, that be a Stanley No. 6c, type 10 in use...

  11. #11
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    Hi William

    I'll let you know if the screws fail. They are each 1" deep into the Jarrah bench dog.

    I agree with you that it would be stronger if the metal wrapped around the dog in an "L". However, this was quick to make to test out. The dog is new as well. They take me 5 minutes to make. The worst that can happen is that I replace it.

    There has been no signs of weakness in the short time I have used it. I just thought the steel plate was so easy to make, and so effective (!), that I should pass it on.

    Regrads from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 02-04-2018 at 8:29 PM.

  12. #12
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    I like it Derek, sort of like the Benchcrafted offering that I have thought about buying. I like the smaller teeth and overall smaller dog. Your solution should cause less damage to the wood with a smaller, grippier device. I may borrow this idea. I may have an old saw plate or other piece of metal to make one from. I have the saw files. Should give me more experience filing saw teeth. You did a great job on the teeth of yours. Would you like a few saws to sharpen :-)

    Maybe a brass or steel insert would hold the devise in place better.
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 02-04-2018 at 7:03 PM.

  13. #13
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    Mike, the Benchcrafted dog is beautiful. It really looks the part, and I have no doubt it is worth every penny. The one I made is really so easy and cheap to make, it is worth making to test out whether you would like the BC version.

    Filing the "teeth" is easy as the O1 is annealed (unhardened). I used a worn file that was over from sharpening saws.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  14. #14
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    Jarrah seems an ideal wood for dogs, hard and dense. Best I can do here is African Mahogany which surprisingly is somewhat affordable from a wholesaler. I made 25 dogs for my bench.
    My dogs back edge are rounded to reduce the chance of a plane catching and tearing out the back of the dog. Your steel top may catch a blade someday. The recessed zinc stops angle up to reduce catching and the metal is soft, (new ones are aluminium).
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  15. #15
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    Hi William

    Obviously I assume that one would not use this metal stop if there is a fear of hitting it with a plane. I would keep it low and out of harm's way.

    The teeth are small and sharp enough not to do any damage to the end grain of boards being planed. I would not use it with planed edge grain. It would damage that.

    Luckily, I made all my dogs the exact same size and interchangeable. This will enable me to use the metal dog anywhere along the side of the bench.

    Part of this thread was intended to emphasise just how amazing the Doe's Foot is as a end vise substitute - for those of you without an end vise - plus that it is extremely stable when planing at an angle (diagonally across the board). The combination with the metal dog is amazing.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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