I Like Old Tools

[Stewie Simpson]

Work on the 2nd of 3 vintage Moving Fillister Planes is close to completion. The replacement sliding fence was made using the original brass hardware.

middle plane, (prior to refurbishment)

[Frederick Skelly]

Beautiful work, as always Stewie! Thanks for showing us.
Fred

[steven c newman]

Like old tools? Hmmm....even my power tools are Vintage
trim an end.jpg
That came in a green & yellow hammer toned metal case....6" SKIL saw..
toys.jpg
Well....maybe the tape measure isn't quite "Vintage" yet...
jointer.jpg
My Jointer is about twice as old as I am...
shavings.jpg
Same with this #4 smoother...handle is not broke, tape is for a better grip, with sweaty hands....
Like old tools...and USE old tools...

According to Hyperkitten..the Stanley No. 4 is a Type 10.....made about the same time as my Stanley No. 6c. Still trying to "type" the Stanley No. 8....ah...a Type 7!

[ken hatch]

Work on the 2nd of 3 vintage Moving Fillister Planes is close to completion. The replacement sliding fence was made using the original brass hardware.

middle plane, (prior to refurbishment)

Stewie,

I have a couple of older fillisters both work well but I can see a refurbishing in their future.

Thanks for the posts,

ken

[William Fretwell]

Thanks Stewie, I want one! Just don't see them round here. Good old tools are very hard to find now. It was much easier 30 years ago.

There are a few good modern tools that are a pleasure to use with no compromise in their construction, the good 'old' tools of the future, that is what I try to buy. Moving fillister planes don't fall in that category unfortunately.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

I like old tools too, but im sick of flattening. If one wanted lets say a # 3,4,5 and 7 Stanley Bedrock, would´nt it end up more expensive than buying new from LN ?

[ken hatch]

I like old tools too, but im sick of flattening. If one wanted lets say a # 3,4,5 and 7 Stanley Bedrock, would´nt it end up more expensive than buying new from LN ?

Lasse,

There is a good chance but the real question is why would someone want Stanley Bedrock planes. Compared to a Stanley Bailey type 9 to type 13 they are a lesser plane for too much money, of course YMMV.

ken

[John C Cox]

I like old tools too, but im sick of flattening. If one wanted lets say a # 3,4,5 and 7 Stanley Bedrock, would´nt it end up more expensive than buying new from LN ?

Lasse,
It could well be impossible depending on the quality of the casting. I have a Type 16 Stanley #5 where the mold must have shifted during casting - as the whole sole is badly warped and out of square inside and out... I ended up stumbling into a Type 16 replacement sole on the cheap - and it was good..... Likely, on a real Bedrock - you would be out of luck...

This is a case where I believe you would be well served speaking with a reputable vendor of old tools.. Speak with the fellow and explain what you want... While a pure collector may be perfectly happy with a warped sole given otherwise original condition/patina - a user certainly would not.... And vice versa... A collector will likely discount the value of a plane which has been ground and trued up as "Non-original" - where a user will want that one because the worst of the hard work is already done..

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

Lasse,

There is a good chance but the real question is why would someone want Stanley Bedrock planes. Compared to a Stanley Bailey type 9 to type 13 they are a lesser plane for too much money, of course YMMV.

ken

Ok, I was of the understanding, that the Bedrock models were the most coveted versions and therefore I thought they must be the better ones.
How do i know if it is a type 9 or 13 ?

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

Lasse,
It could well be impossible depending on the quality of the casting. I have a Type 16 Stanley #5 where the mold must have shifted during casting - as the whole sole is badly warped and out of square inside and out... I ended up stumbling into a Type 16 replacement sole on the cheap - and it was good..... Likely, on a real Bedrock - you would be out of luck...

This is a case where I believe you would be well served speaking with a reputable vendor of old tools.. Speak with the fellow and explain what you want... While a pure collector may be perfectly happy with a warped sole given otherwise original condition/patina - a user certainly would not.... And vice versa... A collector will likely discount the value of a plane which has been ground and trued up as "Non-original" - where a user will want that one because the worst of the hard work is already done..

There is so much knowledge to be obtained when dealing with vintage tools that its much easier just to buy new tools

[steven c newman]

And miss out on all that extra knowledge, too. Even though it MAY coming handy..one day. Too much like work, right?

[steven c newman]

You can go to Hyperkitten's plane typing page...take a few notes as to WHAT to look for in a certain type, make that into a shopping list of sorts....then spend a wee bit of time ( coffee breaks?) and do a bit of shopping...

[Jim Koepke]

Ok, I was of the understanding, that the Bedrock models were the most coveted versions and therefore I thought they must be the better ones.
How do i know if it is a type 9 or 13 ?

Type 9 brought on a change in the base casting which has a few distinctions that started in 1902:

Type 9 frogs and bases.jpg

Before this there was no rib in the base casting. Starting with type 9 the frog not only sat on an area under the holding screws, it also seats at the very front of the frog's blade bed. On the left is an early type 9. On the right is a later design which endured.

Another change is the Bailey name was added to the casting. There are also two patent dates ending in 02 right behind the frog. In ~ 1907 (type 10) frog adjustment hardware was added under the depth adjuster. In 1910 (type 11) a third patent date was added behind the frog. In ~1920 (type 12) the front knob was changed to a tall knob, this was followed by a larger (1-1/4") depth adjusting wheel and the SW Hart trademark on the blade. In ~1925 (type 13) the only patent date remaining was for the 1910 patent.

Type 14 or ~1929 was when a ring was cast around the base of the front knob. My preference is for a short knob which doesn't work with the ring.

For more information about type this page is pretty good:

http://www.rexmill.com/planes101/typing/typing.htm

One problem with a type study is it gets spread around and if there is a change it is difficult at best to make it known. There is a type kind of between type 6 and type 7. In the study linked above, for type 6 it sates, "the brass adjusting nut now has left hand threads." This didn't take place until late in the type 6 years. Most of my type 6s have right hand threads on the adjusters. One of my planes that isn't clearly of any type falls into this crack. Some of the planes made in the early 1890s have different foundry marks than found on earlier or later planes. They seem to work just fine.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Type 9 brought on a change in the base casting which has a few distinctions that started in 1902:

Type 9 frogs and bases.jpg

Before this there was no rib in the base casting. Starting with type 9 the frog not only sat on an area under the holding screws, it also seats at the very front of the frog's blade bed. On the left is an early type 9. On the right is a later design which endured.

Another change is the Bailey name was added to the casting. There are also two patent dates ending in 02 right behind the frog. In ~ 1907 (type 10) frog adjustment hardware was added under the depth adjuster. In 1910 (type 11) a third patent date was added behind the frog. In ~1920 (type 12) the front knob was changed to a tall knob, this was followed by a larger (1-1/4") depth adjusting wheel and the SW Hart trademark on the blade. In ~1925 (type 13) the only patent date remaining was for the 1910 patent.

Type 14 or ~1929 was when a ring was cast around the base of the front knob. My preference is for a short knob which doesn't work with the ring.

For more information about type this page is pretty good:

http://www.rexmill.com/planes101/typing/typing.htm

One problem with a type study is it gets spread around and if there is a change it is difficult at best to make it known. There is a type kind of between type 6 and type 7. In the study linked above, for type 6 it sates, "the brass adjusting nut now has left hand threads." This didn't take place until late in the type 6 years. Most of my type 6s have right hand threads on the adjusters. One of my planes that isn't clearly of any type falls into this crack. Some of the planes made in the early 1890s have different foundry marks than found on earlier or later planes. They seem to work just fine.

jtk

Thanks Jim,

You saved me from doing work I didn't want to do.

Good summary.

ken

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

Thanks Jim :-)