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Thread: Need help building a banister!!

  1. #1

    Need help building a banister!!

    Hey guys!

    So I'm moving into a new house in a few weeks and I have to build a banister for the landing at the top of the stairs. To date, I've mainly only made cutting boards and other small projects, so I'm a little nervous. I'm looking at two designs..

    https://www.remodelaholic.com/wp-con...odelaholic.jpg

    ^^Which would be built out of solid walnut

    OR

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0aZULXWzZK...0/IMAG2037.jpg


    We are kind of leaning towards the bookcase banister right now. The backside would probably be wainscoting. I want to build this thing sturdy, to last. I'm a little lost on what to build it out of though.. baltic birch ply? MDF? I've seen some of the wainscoting stiles made out of MDF, but do I build the whole thing out of MDF? I'd kind of like some solid wood to show in the center of the wainscoting panels, not everything painted white, but how do I do that? Any builds that you guys could direct me to?


    Thanks in advance!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carrollton, Georgia
    Posts
    1,815
    MDF could be workable but it definitely has its drawbacks. Mainly, it tends to sag over time, especially with the weight of books on it, and you can't really fasten to the edges of it with screws. It's messy, as many people like to say but, if you wear a dust mask that shouldn't be a big issue. I assume your plan would be to paint it. The edges don't take paint well but the faces do if you don't sand them.

    Regarding the sagging issue, if you space your uprights close enough together, attach your wooden front trim tongue and groove and set the backs of the shelves into dados it could work. The key would be the close spacing of the uprights which could be MDF, I would think.

    On the other hand, two-sided plywood would be the more quality solution, but that would be more expensive. You might wish to consider this a learning project, using MDF and then, when you get more woodworking skills under your belt, return to it later. You might decide you want to re-design it at that time.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    Mdf is a good solution for the shelf unit. The key to success with it is to use decent thickness material. Use 25 thick for the shelves and divisions and 18 thick for the back. Use a thin ply as a veneer for timber panels and 12 thick for false framing. Dado, glue and where possible screw all shelves. The back can just get glued and screwed and any holes filled with auto body filler. Painting the edges of mdf is no problem with architectural paints. It is only a bit more work if you want furniture finish. This will look good. Just remember don't skimp on material thickness. Cheers

  4. #4
    Thanks for the tips guys! I think we did decide on the bookcase, but I had change of plans.. I think I'll build it out of 2x10's. They are readily available at my small town lumber yard, and I have about 9" to work with in this spot, so very little trimming will need to be done.

    My next issue is how to attach this thing to the floor.. I planned on making an internal base that i can cover up with baseboard trim, and attaching it to the floor with L brackets. Will this be sturdy enough for a banister? Any tips?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    Coach screw the unit direct into floor joists. You will have to work out how to do this with the least amount of grief covering them. It needs to be really solid with no detectable movement at all. Stair rails cannot have movement as they are what everyone subconsciously uses to decide whether a house/building is solid or shoddy. Make yours solid. Cheers
    Every construction obeys the laws of physics. Whether we like or understand the result is of no interest to the universe.

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