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Thread: one premium plane

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    The shooting plane. Just about everything else can be found more or less cheaply.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon SPEAKS View Post
    In this case it really is a hypothetical question. I neither have a large set of vintage planes or am really in the market for a premium new plane today.

    I did think it would be an interesting discussion though and also help me think about strategy as a slowly build my tool kit. Knowing how people decide on vintage vs new will help make similar decisions as needs arise.
    Brandon,

    Vintage planes work better for me, it's not a cost thing nor nostalgia, the supposed connection to past workers and all that rot. Of course everyone works differently and has different needs but as mentioned in an earlier post, Bailey pattern chip breakers work better to control tear out, the planes are lighter, the irons are easier to sharpen and keep sharp. Once the frog is set there is no need to change it and if you do want to, a correctly tensioned post type 9 Bailey frog can be adjusted easier than a Bedrock pattern frog. Bottom line while LN and LV planes are beautiful and very well made for my use they offer no advantage except in cases where collectors have driven the price higher than a new LN or LV because with used planes there is usually a burn rate, with new one from LN or LV there isn't.

    I hope that helps,

    ken

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Lawrence View Post
    I would not overlook the wooden planes if I were thinking about spending that kind of money on a plane. I have an antique jack plane that was somehow basically brand new when I bought it. The thing is just awesome. I can’t think of the last time I picked up my metal jack plane. Steve Voight is making very good wooden planes from what I hear (I have not used one of his, although some members here have I believe).

    Stan is correct that they are not as stable as metal planes, but if your shop is conditioned, that is not so much of a problem. They will wear, but I doubt you will wear one out in your lifetime. I have a wooden try that has three names (three generations?) stamped on it. It is still going strong.
    Nicholas,

    I almost never use a long metal plane, woodies are the only way to go. Maybe if I were still 20 years old and could still pick up the back end of VW's I might use the LN #8 instead of it collecting dust in the plane till. ECE planes are very inexpensive and work well, I also have all of Steve's planes and they are exceptional.

    ken

  4. #34
    Reading the fervency of the responses and knowing the fervency of my own opinion, I'm concluding that this is completely personal. Buy what your gut says. All 3 of those choices from those 2 makers will resell fairly easily if your gut, skills, or preferences change in a year.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Twin Cities, Minnesota
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    274
    I made that choice about five years ago and went with the Lie-Nielsen no. 4 (not bronze). I have a couple other smoothers ranging from Stanleys, Bedrock and a couple no. 3’s including Woodriver. Some with stock irons, a couple with Hock irons and one Stanley type 11 equipped with the PM V-11cutter. I’ve spent time with all of them and they work well but as soon as I pick up the Lie-Nielsen I experience a difference in how much better it seems to work. And so far I’ve had no trouble sharpening the A2 iron.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
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    1,048
    Don't know why I'm bothering, as Prashun says it's personal. However....

    Since the original premise implies a willingness to learn to restore & setup old planes, I suggest the best strategy is to get on with it. Acquire the planes you can, restore them, and use them. Later, only when it becomes clear which plane you are missing for your work flow that can't be found reasonably (condition or price), cash in your premium plane "coupon" to fill the hole you've identified.

    All the specific suggestions are the suggesters favorite or least available plane and only coincidentally align with anyone else's needs.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    I also use mainly wooden bodied planes, but still I can't help but use a #7 and #4 LN pretty regularly. I prefer to edge joint with an iron bodied plane because they do not wear to any degree along the center. Edge jointing with a wooden plane is harsh on the plane sole if the edge that you are jointing is narrower than the sole.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    USA
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    The OP is asking a question that doesn't have a universally accepted answer. Some folks, have one of everything, yet will continue to buy any new thing that comes along. Others have a few trusted tools that they have used for years and have no reason to buy anything new.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    I also use mainly wooden bodied planes, but still I can't help but use a #7 and #4 LN pretty regularly. I prefer to edge joint with an iron bodied plane because they do not wear to any degree along the center. Edge jointing with a wooden plane is harsh on the plane sole if the edge that you are jointing is narrower than the sole.
    That's an interesting comment; I have to disagree. I've edge jointed thousands of feet of stock with wooden planes and not had any problems with wear.
    The only place I've found wear to be an issue is with end grain shooting, because (A) you're always hitting the sole in the same spot, at least if your shooting board is not ramped, and (B) end grain is so much harder and more abrasive. But with long grain planing in a vise, it's really not an issue for me. I might be biased though.
    "For me, chairs and chairmaking are a means to an end. My real goal is to spend my days in a quiet, dustless shop doing hand work on an object that is beautiful, useful and fun to make." --Peter Galbert

  10. #40
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    N Illinois
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    my choice LN LA Jack....
    Jerry

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Voigt View Post
    That's an interesting comment; I have to disagree. I've edge jointed thousands of feet of stock with wooden planes and not had any problems with wear.
    The only place I've found wear to be an issue is with end grain shooting, because (A) you're always hitting the sole in the same spot, at least if your shooting board is not ramped, and (B) end grain is so much harder and more abrasive. But with long grain planing in a vise, it's really not an issue for me. I might be biased though.
    Could be due to the small lands I set on my Japanese planes, I’ve put a mouth insert into a few of them and that cures the issue.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Voigt View Post
    That's an interesting comment; I have to disagree. I've edge jointed thousands of feet of stock with wooden planes and not had any problems with wear.
    The only place I've found wear to be an issue is with end grain shooting, because (A) you're always hitting the sole in the same spot, at least if your shooting board is not ramped, and (B) end grain is so much harder and more abrasive. But with long grain planing in a vise, it's really not an issue for me. I might be biased though.
    Glad to hear from you again Steve!
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  13. #43
    I agree with Stan on this one, although I'm a LV fan.

    A good vintage jointer is hard to find used.
    They seem to get dinged, dropped, warped, etc.

    By the time you've counted how many hours it took you to lap it true and flat, the LN or LV will look really cheap.

    -Matt

    ps. FWIW, I think the custom bevel down LV jointer is better than their bevel up because of the square sides. Much more useful to joint thinner pieces of wood. This was Stan's greatest argument in favor of the LN over the LV at the time...and he was right! Make sure your jointer has square sides.

    pps. Depends on what you're doing. If you're guitarbuilding, you'd be hard pressed to beat a LV LA BU Jack. It's just the right size for jointing tops/backs, thicknessing, and precision work.

  14. #44
    By the time you've counted how many hours it took you to lap it true and flat, the LN or LV will look really cheap.

    Yes, though it's pleasant mindless work.

  15. #45
    Join Date
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    By the time you've counted how many hours it took you to lap it true and flat, the LN or LV will look really cheap.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Selinger View Post

    Yes, though it's pleasant mindless work.
    My #7 took me the longest to clean up the rust off the sole and it wasn't more than an hour. To the best of my recollection most of my planes didn't get much lapping of the sole. Mostly it is a smoother that needs lapping and then only if you want to see how thin you can shave wood.

    My #7 cost me $21.25. For the hours put in on rehabbing it someone would have to be paying me some pretty good money to make the LN or LV look cheap in comparison. Being retired gives me more time than others. It may also offer less disposable income.

    The #7 took a bit more time since not only was it in a pretty bad state, it was documented and painted. Of all my planes the #4 and the #7 were repainted and give me a warm fuzzy feeling each time they are in use.

    Here is the rehab post:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ker-to-Jointer

    As Ray said, it can be pleasant and rewarding work.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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