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Thread: one premium plane

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    I have a nice set of Sweetheart era users that I refurbished, a #3, #4, #5, #6, and #7. I added two "premium planes" that would serve roles the others were not ideal for, and to serve as "reference standards" that set the bar high. The first was a LV Low Angle Jack with the full complement of blades. The second was a LN #4 1/2 smoother. They work so nice I have half a mind to sell off my antiques and pick up a LN#3 and #4 in bronze.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  2. #17
    If I was going to buy a 'premium' plane it wouldn't be LV or LN, I would buy a Sauer & Steiner panel plane.
    Them's my two cents worth.
    Wood Hoarder, Blade Sharpener, and Occasional Tool User

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Vienna, Austria
    My first one was Veritas Low Angle Jack. But thinking about it now I would absolutely 100% positively go for a #7, regular one (bevel down). After that, LN Rabbet Block Plane is a nice little plane that is used everywhere. And hypothetically, I would think about a dozen more hand planes as a long term plan, so that my first one is still needed and becomes a part of that bigger future collection.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Perth, Australia
    Darrell, I agree that S&S are the best lookers of all. For performance, I doubt that a single iron plane can better a double iron plane.

    Regards from Perth


  5. my bench planes are almost all bailey type 11 or earlier. My only L.V. plane is the medium shoulder plane. FWIW.

  6. #21
    All three of your choices are good ones in my experience.

    If I had to pick one, it would be, hands down, the LN#4.

    Until you get really proficient with planes (I'll tell you when I'm there in 10 years ) you may find like me, that when you pick up a plane, you get a tiny pit in your stomach, hopefully nervous about what your results will be. The LN#4 is the exception in my arsenal. It is the only plane for me that performs consistently and reliably on anything I use it on, regardless of your level of proficiency.

    It is capable of handling pretty much any domestic hardwood with a single bevel, single frog, single set up.
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 01-31-2018 at 9:06 AM.

  7. #22
    LN 4 1/2 with extra high angle frog.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Tokyo, Japan
    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon SPEAKS View Post
    So this is mostly hypothetical.

    If you were to have a plane collection build on decent user vintage planes but could buy one premium LN or LV what would it be?

    A no 4 because of the advantages of perfectly tuned smoother plane?
    A specialty like a shooting plane and tracks for a shooting board?
    A low angle jack?

    Which one new premium plane would you get to supplement rust hunting?
    I own a lot of LN products, and some old planes, but I do most of my planing with wooden-bodied planes, because the blades are simply far superior to Western planes. But wooden planes have their limitations: (i) The longer the body, the easier they get out of adjustment with humidity swings; and (ii) in the case of smaller planes used hard on narrow surfaces, like block planes, the sole directly in front of the mouth (a very important area) tends to wear and become damaged quickly.

    If I had one LN plane it would be a No.7 or No.8 Jointer. This is one plane that is hard to do without if you regularly true large/long surfaces by hand. Granted, they are heavy and tiring to use all day, but they don't warp, and they quickly and reliably create flat surfaces and straight edges without fuss or induced brain damage. Blade quality is not critically important for jointer planes. Decent jointer planes are hard to find used, IME, and when you can find them, they are overpriced. Perhaps you have better sources.

    If truing long surfaces is not an issue, then a LN block plane would be my choice. In fact, the LN Rabbet Block Plane w/nicker would be my choice because it is more versatile than a standard block plane. Rabbet block planes are also difficult to find used. Darned collectors have jacked prices up too high. Blade quality is not as important for block planes.

    Two cents (don't ask for your money back)
    Last edited by Stanley Covington; 01-31-2018 at 9:39 AM.

  9. #24
    Have some LV and LN but the planes on my bench every day are Clifton 3, 5, and 7 with their forged high carbon blades. Not the current versions but real Cliftons from about 15 years ago.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Forest Lake MN
    Quote Originally Posted by ken hatch View Post

    If you have a working collection of Stanleys why would you need to buy a LN or LV plane? The LN are heavy, with thick A2 cutters that require, most likely, a complete change of your sharpening system. I have most of the LN's they sit in the till and most of the time I use the Stanleys only pulling out the LN when I'm trying to decide if I'm going to sell them. The LV's are nice planes with a O1 iron available but I've never felt any love for Norris adjusters so they sit on the shelf most of the time as well. The one exception is the shooting plane from either LN or LV and that is because when you find a good Stanley #51 it costs as much or more than a new LN.

    Of course as always YMMV.

    In this case it really is a hypothetical question. I neither have a large set of vintage planes or am really in the market for a premium new plane today.

    I did think it would be an interesting discussion though and also help me think about strategy as a slowly build my tool kit. Knowing how people decide on vintage vs new will help make similar decisions as needs arise.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Brandon, my response will be a little unusual, but I'd get the Veritas DX60 block plane. I have a very good working set of vintage planes and a pretty complete set of premium planes from Veritas and Lie Nielsen, but I've been able to tune up any old plane to be very close to their performance. I have a number of good old block planes, and a couple veritas low angle block planes, but none come anywhere close to the feel of using the DX60. It's just a great plane.

    Second on my list would probably be the Lie Nielsen 62. I have the Veritas LA Jack as well (don't ask why I have both), which is arguably the better thought out plane and equally well made, but the 62 is so light that it's the one I reach for most often. Why not a BD plane? Because the vintage BD planes can be as good as new ones with enough work, but the same cannot be said for vintage BU planes.

    One more thing - I have a stanley 5.5 post WW2, made in england with heavy castings that performs every bit as well as a premium plane. I mean I've rehabbed close to 100 old planes but this thing is just the pinnacle of how good a plane can be. I usually flatten plane soles so the key parts are flat, but with this I went all the way, every bit of the sole was lapped dead flat, the corners were broken in a bit too. It performs amazingly - look for one of these heavy castings, and put in the hours if you can.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Mandalay Shores, CA
    Blog Entries
    LN #7 jointer or LV shooting board plane. Used planes are uncommon here. The LN Jointer gets a workout in my shop and it is often my favorite to use. I donít have a dedicated shooter but it would be a nice luxery.

    "no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."

    "I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"

  13. #28
    I would not overlook the wooden planes if I were thinking about spending that kind of money on a plane. I have an antique jack plane that was somehow basically brand new when I bought it. The thing is just awesome. I can’t think of the last time I picked up my metal jack plane. Steve Voight is making very good wooden planes from what I hear (I have not used one of his, although some members here have I believe).

    Stan is correct that they are not as stable as metal planes, but if your shop is conditioned, that is not so much of a problem. They will wear, but I doubt you will wear one out in your lifetime. I have a wooden try that has three names (three generations?) stamped on it. It is still going strong.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Dublin, CA
    Quote Originally Posted by Darrell LaRue View Post
    If I was going to buy a 'premium' plane it wouldn't be LV or LN, I would buy a Sauer & Steiner panel plane.
    Them's my two cents worth.
    Beautifully built planes, it's a real pity about the missing cap irons.

    Seriously, tight mouths high angles, and thin shavings are a painfully slow way to work with a panel plane.
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 01-31-2018 at 1:20 PM.

  15. #30
    I think while the OP used the word "premium" he was clear about the level he was considering. I wasn't hung up on the word "premium".

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