Craftsman Table Saw Value?

[micah ferguson]

I ended up getting the saw for $200 because when I tested it out, it ran, but the blade would not get up to full speed. For $200, it's not that big of a risk, and I figure it just needs some TLC. Can anyone give me some pointers on getting the saw running at 100%.

[Mark Godlesky]

I would say check three things in this order.

1. Belt - visual inspection should tell you if you need a new one. Is it stretched and slipping?
2.Wiring - is it wired correctly and is the wiring in good shape, connected securely, etc.? IIRC this saw can be wired for 120 or 240. I'd have to check my manual to be sure since mine has always run on 120. Maybe it's miswired. Also a loose connection could possible cause a voltage drop causing the saw to not have max output.
3. Bearings - Are they making noise? Does the blade easily spin by hand? (With it unplugged, of course.)

I think $200 is a pretty decent dealas long as the motor is OK

[micah ferguson]

I would say check three things in this order.

1. Belt - visual inspection should tell you if you need a new one. Is it stretched and slipping?
2.Wiring - is it wired correctly and is the wiring in good shape, connected securely, etc.? IIRC this saw can be wired for 120 or 240. I'd have to check my manual to be sure since mine has always run on 120. Maybe it's miswired. Also a loose connection could possible cause a voltage drop causing the saw to not have max output.
3. Bearings - Are they making noise? Does the blade easily spin by hand? (With it unplugged, of course.)

I think $200 is a pretty decent dealas long as the motor is OK

The blade does not spin very well by hand...should I start there with new bearings?

[Steve Lansing]

What is a “zip code saw”? I’ve never heard that term until now.

[Ed Edwards]

OK, I'll bite what's a zip code saw??

Ed

[scott spencer]

What is a “zip code saw”? I’ve never heard that term until now.

They were commonly referred to as models 22104, 22114, and 22124, which resembled a zip code, so they got referred to as zipcode saws on some of the forums. You'll find they have similar guts to the early Steel City 35601, 35605, and 35610, which may help you source parts at some point.

First thing I'd check is the belt....be sure it's fully seated on both pulleys, and that the ribs aren't stripped (a mirror can be helpful). Check that the pulleys aren't loose. Also, check that it's wired for 120v and not 240v....there should a diagram on the inside of the wire junction box on the motor. If that's not the culprit, check the motor capacitors. I'd also check that the bearings arent' shot, and causing drag. Get it aligned, and put a good blade on it....should be a nice saw.

[Ed Edwards]

Micah,
You probably have the saw home by now, Are you still experiencing the issue with the motor?
Mark's diagnostic items were right on.
When you tried to spin the blade did you have the belt removed?
Without the belt on does the motor now come up to speed?
Is the saw able to be wired for 120 volts as well as 240? If so how is it configured, and what voltage do have available?
Remove the wiring access cover, is the inside of the motor loaded with sawdust? Can you blow out the area of the centrifugal switch?
Approach this systematically, just stay cool and don't jump to the bearings yet.

Good luck,
Ed

[micah ferguson]

Micah,
You probably have the saw home by now, Are you still experiencing the issue with the motor?
Mark's diagnostic items were right on.
When you tried to spin the blade did you have the belt removed?
Without the belt on does the motor now come up to speed?
Is the saw able to be wired for 120 volts as well as 240? If so how is it configured, and what voltage do have available?
Remove the wiring access cover, is the inside of the motor loaded with sawdust? Can you blow out the area of the centrifugal switch?
Approach this systematically, just stay cool and don't jump to the bearings yet.

Good luck,
Ed

Ed, thanks a bunch for the detailed reply. I got it home last night and have not had time to mess with it anymore. I did notice that there is a lot of sawdust on and around the motor, so I am sure everything needs a good cleaning. I will start there. My shop is only wired for 120, and I am pretty sure that's how the saw is currently set up, but I will verify.

[micah ferguson]

The manual says that if the blade fails to get up to full speed, that it may be the capacitor. it doesn't say which capacitor, so I tested both. The run capacitor is 20 uf, and I got 19.5 when i tested it. The start capacitor is 300 mfd, and it is reading 350. I don't know much about capacitors, so what does it mean that the run capacitor is reading 50 mfd high? Good or bad?

[scott spencer]

Capacitor tolerances are often +/- 20%, so I'd say both of those read as good, and shouldn't be the cause. Keep moving down your check list.

[micah ferguson]

Can anyone tell me how freely the blade should spin by hand with the belt not attached? It seems to be more difficult to spin than it should.

[Myk Rian]

Can anyone tell me how freely the blade should spin by hand with the belt not attached? It seems to be more difficult to spin than it should.

Now it's time to check the arbor bearings. A cleaning and oiling may be all that they need.
I have it's sister saw of the Steel City brand. Love that thing.

[Joe Kaufman]

Do you know if the previous owner ever used the saw or they purchased the saw and found the present condition and resold it?

As stated follow the above check list.

My opinions:
Most logical, Wired for 240V.

Centrifugal switch not opening and starting windings are still energized preventing motor from attaining full speed. This condition usually results in the starting windings overheating to the point that smoke will result in 20-30 seconds. Watch for this condition until the problem is resolved. Take the fan off the motor and the switch is under a cover under the fan position, if it is like the zip code motors. Verify that the switch will work by hand. The cutout speed is determined by the linear mounting position on the motor shaft - easy to adjust. The switch should open at approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of full speed.

One of the pair of the 4 run windings is open. In this condition the motor usually comes up to speed but with a reduction in power on 120V. Not sure what happens if the run winding is open that is in parallel with the start winding.

You cannot always believe hand held capacitance meters. Early in the failure mode the capacitor may be breaking down at a higher voltage than what the meter can provide. usually doesn't take long for complete failure.

[Bill Bukovec]

Does the motor get hot after it runs for a few minutes?

[scott spencer]

Can anyone tell me how freely the blade should spin by hand with the belt not attached? It seems to be more difficult to spin than it should.

It should spin pretty easily. I agree that you should check the arbor bearings.