Ideas for connecting saw to outfeed table?

[Brock Martens]

My previous outfeed table was attached to the table saw and folded down when not needed. I'm building a new outfeed table that will be on casters and can be separate from the saw. I'm trying to come up with a way that the two can sort of "snap" together with minimal adjustment. Like a latch of sorts. Any good ideas out there? The saw (ridgid r4512) has a 1/4" T-track on the underside of the back rail, so I can use that as a mounting point on the saw.

[Doug Garson]

How about some large magnets with matching steel plates?

[Jim Becker]

You might find this recent thread in Woodworking Projects helpful...

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-Project-Video

[Greg Castaneda]

If The surfaces are on the same plane underneath you can use butterfly latches.
Some of these can also lock at 90 degrees to each other
IMG_0793.JPG

[Brock Martens]

I like the magnet idea, maybe attached to a small protrusion that forces it into a specific position (so that the mitre slots line up). Thanks, Doug.

I already have non-retractable casters for the table, and don't really want to have to go around the table to lift it onto the casters every time I want to move it. I should have mentioned that I'm in small shop, so I often need to move my saw to make cuts on longer boards. Ideally the outfeed table would stay on the unlocked casters and just be held on place by the saw. That way if I want to move the saw, the outfeed table would just move with it.

[Bill Dufour]

You could drop a turnbuckle or two over a peg pointing up on each machine. Then a turn or two to tighten it up. Use one with at least 3/8 thread to make it big enough to be easy to hand turn.
Bill D

[Brian Henderson]

I like the magnet idea, maybe attached to a small protrusion that forces it into a specific position (so that the mitre slots line up). Thanks, Doug.

I already have non-retractable casters for the table, and don't really want to have to go around the table to lift it onto the casters every time I want to move it. I should have mentioned that I'm in small shop, so I often need to move my saw to make cuts on longer boards. Ideally the outfeed table would stay on the unlocked casters and just be held on place by the saw. That way if I want to move the saw, the outfeed table would just move with it.

Shouldn't be too hard to add an L-bracket or something, either to the table or to the saw itself, that will fit into a matching slot and then the whole thing is held together with strong magnets.

[Keith Westfall]

I made a "go between" piece of the correct dimensions for my output table/bench and then mounted a couple of barrel type latches on the board with the matching ends on the table saw. Roll them close together and line up the latches and lock them into place. Seems to work...

the "go between" piece was attached to the bench by a piano hinge so it just folds down and stays there when not in use.

[Brock Martens]

I thought about a type of latch, but when moving my saw, it lifts up about ¾". I think a latch would have to be disconnected every time I want to move the saw.
I've gone ahead and ordered a pair of 95 lb magnets. I'm gonna try that setup and see how it works.

[Keith Westfall]

With mine being able to flex on the hinge, and the rotation in the ends of the barrel hinge, when I lift my saw, it just adjusts. When the saw is 'down' on the floor, is when the two tops match. The barrel hinges allow to to move up and down quite easily. Plus they don't have to be completely tight to each other so a bit of play is OK.

This type of latch I guess rather than a hinge. Small piece was mounted on the saw.

[Mike Heidrick]

Locking casters. Roll it next to it, lock down the casters. That is how I do it.

[Brock Martens]

With mine being able to flex on the hinge, and the rotation in the ends of the barrel hinge, when I lift my saw, it just adjusts. When the saw is 'down' on the floor, is when the two tops match. The barrel hinges allow to to move up and down quite easily. Plus they don't have to be completely tight to each other so a bit of play is OK.

This type of latch I guess rather than a hinge. Small piece was mounted on the saw.

Okay, I see what you mean now (although I can't see the attached images for some reason). Yeah, that would work, too.

I'm going with the magnets because there shouldn't be any fiddling with the connection. No latches to put together. Just roll the table up and it snaps together. I'm hoping the magnets will be strong enough and also not too strong, but if they are too strong, I'll attach a cam lever that can easily break the connection when needed. I could've gone with stronger magnets, but I was concerned they wouldn't slide up and down on the metal plates when I lift the saw. When the magnets arrive and I get the table built I will update with pictures.

[Von Bickley]

Locking casters. Roll it next to it, lock down the casters. That is how I do it.

I agree with Mike. With locking casters, why would you need to.

[Alan Lightstone]

Locking casters. Roll it next to it, lock down the casters. That is how I do it.

+1. Works for me.

[Bill Dufour]

look at "link and pin" and "buffer and chain" train coupling methods for ideas.
I suppose you could use a North American style coupler with a knuckle but you would have to figure out where to buy one for a good sized garden train. I do not see any easy way to make one for yourself.