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Thread: Block Plane with Nicker?

  1. #1
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    Question Block Plane with Nicker?

    Guys, I am considering to upgrade my less than USD 10 block plane by a Lie Nielsen one.

    I am trending towards the Rabbet Block Plane w/ Nicker as it could help in the rare occasions where I can need a rabbet plane, besides the function as a "regular" block plane. It could be my first high quality plane since I started on woodworking on the 1980s.

    The issue is at "w/ Nicker" portion of the name/description. What is it and what is the function and eventual use? Never listen about that previously...

    I thank you in advance for any input.

    All the best,
    Last edited by Osvaldo Cristo; 01-27-2018 at 6:56 AM. Reason: Typo... as usual!

  2. #2
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    If you want to go cross grain, the nicker will slice the fibers a little ahead of the blade to allow you to make a cleaner cut. Similar to the nicker on a Stanley 78.

  3. #3
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    Osvaldo, the LN rabbet block plane is one of those plane that looks like a good idea, but then rarely gets used. I have one, and it has sat on the shelf for many years without use. To be fair, mine does not have a nicker. Nevertheless, I could not imagine wanting to use it as a rebate plane. I'd rather use a proper rebate plane, which is better balanced and has a fence and depth stop. If you really want a plane like that, the Veritas skew block plane is better since it has all these features (although it is one-handed, so you will need two of them).

    The other factor you need to seriously consider with a rabbet block plane is that they cut your hands. Like all the time! The blade projects at the sides, and flesh is like a magnet to the corners of the blade. You really would be better off with a traditional block plane. LN make a couple of super versions in the #60 1/2 and #102.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Lawrence View Post
    If you want to go cross grain, the nicker will slice the fibers a little ahead of the blade to allow you to make a cleaner cut. Similar to the nicker on a Stanley 78.
    One seemingly obvious addition: Nickers are retractable, and only slice the wood if/when you advance them. You can safely ignore them if you're not using the plane in a way that requires them.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Osvaldo, the LN rabbet block plane is one of those plane that looks like a good idea, but then rarely gets used. I have one, and it has sat on the shelf for many years without use. To be fair, mine does not have a nicker. Nevertheless, I could not imagine wanting to use it as a rebate plane. I'd rather use a proper rebate plane, which is better balanced and has a fence and depth stop. If you really want a plane like that, the Veritas skew block plane is better since it has all these features (although it is one-handed, so you will need two of them).

    The other factor you need to seriously consider with a rabbet block plane is that they cut your hands. Like all the time! The blade projects at the sides, and flesh is like a magnet to the corners of the blade. You really would be better off with a traditional block plane. LN make a couple of super versions in the #60 1/2 and #102.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    I agree with Derek. I did exactly what you want to do - I got the LN rabbet plane and had the nickers added. I almost never use it. The exposed blade edges do too much damage if you're not careful when you try to use it as a regular block plane. I've also cut myself on the exposed edges of the blade.

    If you want a good block plane, get the LN or LV, or if you can get antiques, get a Stanley 65 knuckle joint low angle and put a modern blade in it. That's what I use the most. But almost any of the Stanley low angle block planes will be a good choice if you put a modern iron in it, such as the LV PM-V11.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  6. #6
    Osvaldo,

    Exactly as Derek said, when I grab this plane I must be very cognizant of the the blade or "ouch." I do occasionally use it on tenons but other choices abound for this. I will take opportunity to point out that the block plane I use the most is my LN 102 (w/ the Howard Adjuster: https://www.thetoolworks.com.au/?s=howard+adjuster).
    I do use my LN 60 1/2 but not nearly as much as I use my LN 102 and both are used way more than the Rabbet Block plane.

    Randy

  7. #7
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    Osvaldo, Not arguing the points made above, but if the only plane you have is a $10 special... the LN Rabbet Block plane will be a very impressive and versatile tool for you. I have never nicked myself with it. Not sure why. I am not particularly careful. In any case, it is a very well made tool that serves as a smoothing plane if none other is available. It serves as a traditional block plane and can trim end grain like any other, if no other is available. It also serves as a rabbet plane, if none other is available. I particularly like using it on tenon cheeks, where I prefer it to any other plane. For what it's worth, mine is older and does not have nickers. I do have joinery planes with nickers and appreciate their usefulness in cross grain cuts. If I were putting together a set of tools and did not have other joinery planes, I would get a rabbet block again. Of course, a great low angle block plane is a fundamental tool. It would certainly be ahead of a rabbet block plane on my shopping list. Final thought, your $10 special may be a candidate for a fresh and high quality blade. That could be another upgrade path.
    Last edited by Bill McDermott; 01-27-2018 at 3:00 PM.

  8. #8
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    Guys, I am considering to upgrade my less than USD 10 block plane by a Lie Nielsen one.
    Does the $10 (USD 10) block plane have a maker and model?

    Is there any way you can post an image? Even a link to one on the internet would be helpful. In my hunts some very good planes have been found for $10 or less.

    But almost any of the Stanley low angle block planes will be a good choice if you put a modern iron in it, such as the LV PM-V11.
    Premium blades are good replacements, but a good original blade is also able to work very well in most cases.

    It is being able to get a blade sharp whether it be 1910 steel or 2018 steel that makes a plane perform.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  9. #9
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    The only "block plane with a nicker" I have..
    IMG_3041 (640x480).jpg
    And works quite nicely doing this...
    IMG_3042 (640x480).jpg

  10. #10
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    Cheap Stanley

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Does the $10 (USD 10) block plane have a maker and model?

    Is there any way you can post an image? Even a link to one on the internet would be helpful. In my hunts some very good planes have been found for $10 or less.
    Block plane.jpg

    It is a Stanley. Low quality constructed but I paid cheap at a discount promotion where I usually purchase tools and supplies. I purchased it last year and that was my first block plane (I have had a couple of cheap Stanley no. 4). I honed the blade and I got a few work done with it in a satisfactory way. Definitively a block plane can be useful even for me, as I go to electrical tools for most of my tasks.

    Repair at the body: it is not made of cast iron but just a folded steel sheet!

    I was surprised I got results with it so I am motivated to purchase a real block plane...

    I appreciate yours and other advice as they are very useful as I am inexperienced to hand planes despite my long, but not intense, history with such tools weren't successful.

    Thanks again!
    Last edited by Osvaldo Cristo; 01-27-2018 at 4:18 PM. Reason: Typo... as usual!

  11. #11
    I’m gonna throw this out there...the wood river line of planes are very nice for their price point. All of my bench planes are WR (LAJ, #7, # 5 1/2 and #6). I have two WR low angle block planes as well. I also have a Veritas skew rabbet and large router plane. I don’t have WR in those because they don’t make them. I’ve been very happy with my WR bench planes, but, I have absolutely nothing to compare them to...they were my first planes. At the end of the day, as long as the blade is sharp, you can make the plane work...fit and finish is far superior on a LV or LN plane however...

  12. #12
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    I was surprised I got results with it so I am motivated to purchase a real block plane...

    I appreciate yours and other advice as they are very useful as I am inexperienced to hand planes despite my long, but not intense, history with such tools weren't successful.
    It looks like the modern rendition of the old Stanley #110. A big brother to the #102:

    #102 Stanley.jpg

    Here it has a blade from a Stanley #45 installed just for fun.

    Here is an old post of mine:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....th-Hand-Planes

    Post #13 is about bevel down planes. At one time being bevel down was considered, by some, as the distinguishing mark of a plane being a block plane or not.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 01-27-2018 at 5:25 PM.
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  13. #13
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    That $10 Stanley was more expensive than the Orange Block Plane I reviewed many years ago

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...k%20Plane.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  14. #14
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    Not all block planes are cheapos..
    block plane row.jpg
    These are my main users, half are standard angle, the other three are low angle planes....none have ever needed a thicker iron, all have the OEM irons.
    Knuckle cap is Stanley 9-1/2.....

  15. #15
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    I have 4 block planes, made by Sears, Lie- Nielsen, and Veritas, but the LN rabbet block is the one I like best and use the most. I have nicked my fingers but once, maybe twice, but I like to think that was enough to learn how to hold it properly. Very effective tool. I suspect it is not as drop-resistant as a standard model.

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