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Thread: Fastener options for window shelf

  1. #1

    Fastener options for window shelf

    Hi all,

    Probably a dumb/mundane question ...

    I just finished my first try at working with plastic laminate. I made new countertops for the kitchen and laundry/utility room. I used Baltic birch for the substrate and am keeping the edges exposed for a modern look.

    I also replaced the old tile window sill above the kitchen sink with an new sill made from PVC board and then made a little shelf to sit on top of the new sill. However, I am having trouble figuring out how to actually fasten the shelf down in an inconspicuous way.

    I could use some construction adhesive, but I dislike using adhesives for fastening since this requires destruction to disassemble. I also thought a about using white trim-head screws through the top of the shelf, but am wondering if there is a fastening method that I haven't considered that would be even more invisible.

    I've attached a photo. Ideally after fastening the shelf it would look just like the photo (no visible fasteners). Thanks for reading, and any advice you can offer.

    IMG_0702 (Medium).JPG

  2. #2
    You could make some keys that would get screwed down to the sill and slide into slots. a single screw from below would keep the shelf from moving. You could make dovetail keys like this or use scraps of T-track and T-shaped keys.

  3. #3
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    Here's one approach. The sketch below is a cross section through the new new sill (yellow), the existing house (tan), and a hold-down clip (blue). The rear of the clip wraps up and around into a recess you've made in the underside of the new sill. The clip gets screwed down into the old sill, then the new sill slides on, and then a screw goes up through the tip of the clip into the new sill.
    I've drawn the clip as if it is made from metal, which is what might be required if your new sill is less than an inch thick. Maybe you can make it by bending up a metal mending plate. For a thicker sill, you can make the clip from plywood. Even with your thinner sill, plywood may do the trick.

    sillclip.jpg

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    Here's one approach. The sketch below is a cross section through the new new sill (yellow), the existing house (tan), and a hold-down clip (blue). The rear of the clip wraps up and around into a recess you've made in the underside of the new sill. The clip gets screwed down into the old sill, then the new sill slides on, and then a screw goes up through the tip of the clip into the new sill.
    I've drawn the clip as if it is made from metal, which is what might be required if your new sill is less than an inch thick. Maybe you can make it by bending up a metal mending plate. For a thicker sill, you can make the clip from plywood. Even with your thinner sill, plywood may do the trick.

    sillclip.jpg

    This exactly. Best solution for concealed fastening if you want to put heavier items on it like plants.

  5. #5
    Thank you Dave and Jamie for your help!

    Dave, I saw the sketchup drawing that you made but now the link is broken. Thank you for taking the time to draw a sketch for me.

    Jamie, thank you also for taking the time to draw a sketch.

    I like both of your ideas. I wasn't able to think along these lines by myself at first. Now you've given me another idea. I have a long section of aluminum z-channel AKA z-clip that I could use. Here is a similar product:

    http://www.rockler.com/2-z-clips

    Basically it's a small french cleat made from aluminum. I could use this horizontally instead, locking the back of the shelf in place. Then use a single piece fastened at the front of the sill to lock the shelf from moving out. I can't use sketchup quick like you guys, but I've attached my "not to scale" drawing (the red arrows are screws). Do you think this would work well? I don't have a metal brake otherwise I would try the cleaner metal clip that Jamie posted.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Another way would be to use key hole slots in the shelf and screws into the window sill. Drop the large part of the the keyhole over the screws and shove the self back against the window frame. If you make the small part of the slots right the shelf should touch the window frame. A couple of dabs or a bead of silicone sealant on the back edge of the shelf should hold it in place until you decide to remove it.Capture.JPG
    Lee Schierer
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Cobbing View Post
    Thank you Dave and Jamie for your help!

    Dave, I saw the sketchup drawing that you made but now the link is broken. Thank you for taking the time to draw a sketch for me.

    Jamie, thank you also for taking the time to draw a sketch.

    I like both of your ideas. I wasn't able to think along these lines by myself at first. Now you've given me another idea. I have a long section of aluminum z-channel AKA z-clip that I could use. Here is a similar product:

    http://www.rockler.com/2-z-clips

    Basically it's a small french cleat made from aluminum. I could use this horizontally instead, locking the back of the shelf in place. Then use a single piece fastened at the front of the sill to lock the shelf from moving out. I can't use sketchup quick like you guys, but I've attached my "not to scale" drawing (the red arrows are screws). Do you think this would work well? I don't have a metal brake otherwise I would try the cleaner metal clip that Jamie posted.
    The z-clips should do the job. I'd add a little downward lip at the front of your shelf to cover the gap.
    Umm.. So you slide the new shelf on to the z-clips. Then what? Couldn't the new shelf be slid right back off? Can you run a screw up through the front of the existing shelf to lock the new in place?

  8. #8
    Lee: that's another great idea. I haven't cut keyhole slots before, but this could be a good reason to get the bit and try it out.

    Jamie: in the drawing I made, the front edge of the sill has only a single z-clip rather than a pair. This single z-clip is screwed to both the sill and the shelf, locking the back pair of z-clips in place and preventing the shelf from sliding out. I think this would work OK since the width of the single z-clip in the front would be the same as the width of the pair in the back, meaning that the shelf will stay level.

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