Shrinking the shop / Letting go of my table saw?

[andy bessette]

I think going from bandsaw to jointer constantly would get old...

It simply makes no sense whatsoever.

[Brian Holcombe]

I think going from bandsaw to jointer constantly would get old. Having an accurate cabinet saw allows you to easily adjust a piece to a specific size and with a nice blade it is glue ready.

The consistency and repeatibility of a good table saw is hard to beat.

It simply makes no sense whatsoever.

I improvise when I need to and do so with accurate results. He's asking about rare circumstances where one needs to rip heavy stock.

I do this when breaking down really heavy stock too thick for my tracksaw, like 12/4 and 16/4 material. I can split the line by eye on a bandsaw, so a couple passes on a jointer is enough to make a nice reference.

Cutting to width happens after making a reference (straight line) so one cut that needs to be trued up is hardly worth buying another machine for, especially in a hobby shop.

Max depth of cut on a typical 10" cabinet saw is 3"~ so that's not making it through rough 12/4 which is typically over 3" and certainly not 16/4.

[Bill Adamsen]

I think going from bandsaw to jointer constantly would get old. Having an accurate cabinet saw allows you to easily adjust a piece to a specific size and with a nice blade it is glue ready. The consistency and repeatibility of a good table saw is hard to beat.

I actually do this all the time especially cutting matched veneers where the inside cut will be the face. It makes it easier to get a predictable thickness. But I also do it for many other ripping operations. My cabinet saw doesn't really function at the depth of cut of my bandsaw. My bandsaw and jointer both have just shy of 16" capacity.

[Simon MacGowen]

I actually do this all the time especially cutting matched veneers where the inside cut will be the face. It makes it easier to get a predictable thickness. But I also do it for many other ripping operations. My cabinet saw doesn't really function at the depth of cut of my bandsaw. My bandsaw and jointer both have just shy of 16" capacity.

It always makes sense to use a bandsaw and a jointer (or a thickness planer with a sled) together for resawing stock that can't be handled by a tablesaw. I have done that now and then, but not too often.

At all other times, as others have pointed out, no other methods can match the efficiency of a well-tuned cabinet saw for resawn stock. I could easily run resawn stock on my SawStop (usually with the ICS, also with the PCS sometimes) with a stacked featherboard or sometimes with a tall sacrificial fence as well for an hour or so. I find the Woodworker II really shines in resawing cherry, walnut and even maple with minimal to mostly zero burn marks depending on the feed rate. A quick pass with a low angle jack will get rid of any visible or remaining machine/burn marks. It is hard to beat a cabinet saw in terms of efficiency.

Simon

[Brian Holcombe]

I've offered my suggestion for use when his tracksaw is not enough, its worked plenty of times for me and avoids adding a piece of machinery he seems more interested in removing from his shop.

I have no axe to grind against table saws, as mentioned in my prior replies I'd happily add one to my shop, given the ability to adjust my layout.

[Michael Rector]

Back on track.

I never meant to imply that this workflow was superior to a good cabinet saw or sliding table saw. My original line of questioning was what do I lose from going this route other than potientially(likely) time and efficiency?

I have a 3 car garage and my tools live in the last bay and then expand into the second and first (if necessary) to work. If I have a prolonged project one or both of the cars have to live on the driveway which can be inconvenient during a Denver winter (though not this one ).

My current Bosch 4100 lives on a table saw/router table cabinet that I built for the purpose about 34”x48” in size. My original plans were to replace it with something else to be determined in the SS PCS/Hammer K3 price range this spring.

However I’m wondering if I can usefully shrink the foot print of my tools at the cost of perfect efficiency. If I could more easily control the sprawl of the shop by not having a 4’ square object in the middle of it at the cost of things taking longer but with no less precision it might be worth it to me.

I appreciate the value of the table saw and if I were doing projects for money it wouldn’t be a consideration, but as a hobbyist with a dozen or two small and 3 or 4 large projects a year is there value in stepping away from a table saw?

[Cary Falk]

Michael,
I have the same 3 car garage situation that you do. I have a 15" planer, floor model OSS, 6x89 edge sander, full size lathe, cabinet saw, 22/50 drum sander, cyclone, shaper, 17" bandsaw, 20" drill press, and 8" jointer. I am going to add a 2'x4' CNC this year. I will get them all in one bay. The table saw takes up the most room but would be the last to go.

[Randy Heinemann]

I know the response is late in this thread but...Acouple of years ago I needed to replace my underpowered and average accuracy table saw. I heard of Festool and decided to try to without a table saw because buying and installing a Sawstop in my basement was more than I could manage. I found that, while I could do many things with a track saw better and more accurate than with my old table saw; ripping was a task that I still felt most at and did better with a table saw so I bought a jobsite saw. It’s not the most accurate but it very accurate for ripping and some crosscuttong. Since you already own a Bosch 4100 I would think that keeping it is a good choice unless it’s accuracy or power doesn’t serve your needs. You can do without a table saw, especially those of us who don’t do woodworking for a living. Having even a small table saw available; like the Bosch, Dewalt, or Sawstop jobsites, is very functional.

[David Eisenhauer]

Michael - Looking at your yesterday's post, I think you have answered your own question. Yes, it can be done without the TS, perhaps at a slower pace at times, but doable. Bandsaw, track saw, handsaw plus jointer or hand planes will do the job. As has been suggested, put the Bosch away (perhaps even strip it from the cabinet to save space) and work without it for a while. I have a good TS and will continue to use it when it is the right tool for my shop's use, but readily admit that it is best used on sheet goods IMO (not saying it is not/does not work on timber, just typically shines more so on sheet goods). If lots of sheet goods are not part of your workflow, I certainly don't see why not let the TS go and see how you like doing without? If you decide you don't like it, I'm pretty sure someone will sell you any type/brand of TS you can afford. IMO, some of the responses were pretty hardcore pro TS and did not give much preference to your original question. Again, not having a TS need not be written in stone.

[Simon MacGowen]

Festool or at least many Festool owners of its tracksaws and MFT tables like to point out that the plunge saws are there to do the job of a tablesaw. Against the background of SawStop now being part of the family of Festool, this old video made me think perhaps Festool is cooking up something: a Festool tablesaw!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUYDwfovLLI

If that is true, it will be a powerful statement (or reversal of position?) about the importance of a tablesaw in any woodshop.

Can one live without it? Of course. We can live without many other tools: Many shops don't have a bandsaw, mitresaw, lathe, jointer, thicknesser, etc. It all boils down to what you do and how you plan t do it. I know a couple of guys who would build jigs to solve their shop problems while I would go out and buy a commercial solution. We both draw satisfaction from our approaches; though I think they are at times penny wise and pound foolish, but time is not an issue for them (it is for me).

Simon

[Simon MacGowen]

I have a good TS and will continue to use it when it is the right tool for my shop's use, but readily admit that it is best used on sheet goods IMO (not saying it is not/does not work on timber, just typically shines more so on sheet goods).

By TS, I assume you are referring to a jobsite tablesaw or a contractor saw. Jobsite tablesaws are indeed often used for cutting sheet goods by contractor type of woodworkers on site.

Simon