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Thread: Thinking About Building a Router Cabinet

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    DFW, Texas
    Posts
    179

    Thinking About Building a Router Cabinet

    I have a Grizzly table saw with the router table extension in it, but I've been thinking about building a dedicated cabinet. There are two main reasons. One is the limited space between the router and the edge of the table saw extension. For most pieces, it's not a problem, but when doing some larger raised panels, I'd like a little more support on the piece. The second reason it that for the life of me, I am unable to get the router to 'sit' perfectly vertical with the Grizzly mounting system. I've tried shipping it but just can't seem to get it dialed in. Again, this becomes most noticeable on raise panel doors.

    So, I'm looking for ideas and input on what others have done. Most everything else in my shop is shop made, so I'd love to see some pics of cabinets you've made. Also, what top and fence did you guys go with? I'll probably be buying a new dedicated router for this as well, but that choice would be a different thread entirely.
    Clark Harbaugh

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
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    861
    I have a Grizzly 1023RWL with the router hole on the right side. I have never used it. I just think it's in the wrong place, at least for my shop. For a number of years I had the cast iron router table like that sold by MCS and others with the sliding table. It's a real nice router table but takes up too much room. So, I decided to buy the router table extension with leg kit sold by Excalibur for the left side of my table saw. I was interested in saving space. So I sold the stand-alone table and went this route to save space. I fitted it with Incra version of the woodpeckers lift. I love this setup. But like you said - not much table in front of the blade. So far, I haven't found it to be a problem. Now if I had a big enough shop I would have probably built a router table. Probably the "This old house" version.

    One recommendation I will make is for the Dust Router dust collection attachment. This little silicon rubber cup does a great job. When coupled with fence vacuuming there is virtually no dust. The Dust Router does come with a cheesy hose, but it's the cup that you want. Beats a dust box and your router is never being subjected to dust.

    IMG_0953.jpgIMG_0954.jpgIMG_0958.jpg
    Last edited by tom lucas; 01-23-2018 at 7:18 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
    Posts
    861
    Also, I did a ton of reading before deciding. Many feel the phenolic tops flex and/or sag over time. IOW: cast iron is best. Excalibur sells full size cast iron tops, as an option for you to consider.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,689
    I used the BenchDog cast iron system for my router table setup...while I sometimes wish it was slightly bigger, it's a darn nice product.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    I built one of Norm Abrams Rev.2 router tables. It works well.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Williamston, MI
    Posts
    464
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    I built one of Norm Abrams Rev.2 router tables. It works well.
    I built the same router table and Norm's original design works very well except for the dust collection. I improved it by moving the makeup air holes from the bottom of the door to the back of the cabinet directly behind the cutter. I made a vent that is similar to the vent holes found on Webber kettle grills and keep it closed for edge routing operations because makeup air is pulled in from the opening in the fence and dust is extracted through the hose behind the fence. The vent is opened for dado operations because the cutter hole is covered and dust is extracted through the hose at the bottom of the cabinet.
    Last edited by Roy Turbett; 01-23-2018 at 8:40 PM.

  7. #7
    Check out the router cab build by Mark Sommerfeld (YouTube).

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
    Posts
    861

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
    Posts
    2,360
    Had a home built version of Norm's router cabinet and used it for years. Couple of months ago I got a Kreg stand that they offer for their router table tops and rolled my own from it. Used plywood to encase the sides, back and bottom; made some slide out drawers for the router bits and other storage features for accessories. Fine Woodworking magazine Shops issue had an article on one persons shop that featured roll-around cabinets for his shop. He used this same stand with an enclosed plywood box and made his own. Similar to what Woodpeckers and other companies sell as a package deal. Lots of options to glean ideas from.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati, OH
    Posts
    924
    Still have Norm's cabinet for mine but recently added my own top when I added a lifter. The previous Rockler top did not overhang the sides of the cabinet which limited the use of clamps for fences.
    Rustic? Well, no. That was not my intention!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    75
    I also built a Norm'ish router table, but used the bench dog cast iron top, a woodpeckers lift (the Bench dog top has a non-standard lift size), and Jessem fence. I also changed the DC by having a 4" line underneath the top and a 2 1/2' DC line behind the fence. Not perfect, but certainly in the 90% + range. I've been really happy with it so far.

  12. #12
    Remember that Norm didn't do the original design on his router table. It was based on American Woodworker's router table. He refered to their shop as a "temple of wood," when he visited prior to building his first version.

  13. #13
    I built a Norm'ish router table also. I made the top out of 2 layers of MDF and laminated the top and bottom. One nice thing I just got for it is from infinity tools is a Router Table Top Stainless Steel Insert Ring. The router plate sits on top of it and will not dig into the MDF at all. I have a Jessem plate and the adjusters are on the bottom of the plate, so now it sits on the insert. There are a nice set of plans I used at http://www.crestonwood.com/router.php I am very happy wit hit.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Leander, TX
    Posts
    210
    You can check out the router table I built here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....t=router+table

    I went with the Bench Dog top and love it. One change I made to it since the build was to swap out the wood drawer pulls with metal ones. The wood ones stripped the screws. One change I need to make is to get a complete seal between the router compartment and the top. When I route something like a dado, the majority of the shavings go into the router bit drawer on the top left.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
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    861
    I like the bench dog top, but doesn't it have a nonstandard cutout?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Hunt View Post
    You can check out the router table I built here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....t=router+table

    I went with the Bench Dog top and love it. One change I made to it since the build was to swap out the wood drawer pulls with metal ones. The wood ones stripped the screws. One change I need to make is to get a complete seal between the router compartment and the top. When I route something like a dado, the majority of the shavings go into the router bit drawer on the top left.

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