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Thread: Fix topcoat GF Enduro Clear Polycrylic

  1. #1

    Fix topcoat GF Enduro Clear Polycrylic

    So I shot a table top last weekend and it really looks pretty great, but its got some stripe-y-ness to it I thought would dissipate and hasn't. I realized when I cleaned my gun that some residue had formed at the tip and was occluding my spray and I wasn't getting good flow which is the culprit to a less than perfect finish. Live and learn. But now Id like to fix what amounts to the final coat as the buildup looks fine. Because its polycrylic Im under the impression I cant just shoot it again, its not lacquer and it wont burn into the previous layers. Also Ill want to add some texture for bite, probably 220 grit. Do I have this correct?

    Does anyone have any experience with this? Because the buildup is good I can simply buff/rub it out too, its just some texture from the gun where I thought I was getting a full wet coat and it was more half sputter/half wet coat. Id like to knock down the texture for a nice even finish. Better to sand and get a nice good wet coat to finish or wet/finish sand?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,887
    You can shoot another coat or two with no problem. Since it's likely cured a bit since the last coat, you just need to lightly abrade it for adhesion, clean thoroughly and then re-coat. Products like this often have some level of "burn in" when you're shooting coats in quick succession before they cure, but once beyond that point, many just need that light abrasion to add to the finish.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    You can shoot another coat or two with no problem. Since it's likely cured a bit since the last coat, you just need to lightly abrade it for adhesion, clean thoroughly and then re-coat. Products like this often have some level of "burn in" when you're shooting coats in quick succession before they cure, but once beyond that point, many just need that light abrasion to add to the finish.
    Perfect, thanks very much. Ive read something like 1000 grit is too light and will actually lead to the finish failing in the future. Do you have any insight here? Im thinking a once over with 220 grit but not a hard sand, just enough to give the finish something to grab onto?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,887
    I generally use 320 or 400 for this...same thing I use to get rid of nibs, etc. You don't want to risk cutting through...the idea is just to create a surface that will encourage adhesion of subsequent coats of finish. This is particularly important with anything containing polyurethane as it quite frankly, doesn't like to stick to itself sometimes...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    I agree with Jim - 320 or 400 is as fine as you need to go. Sand the whole top and recoat. Make sure your tip is clean (as I am sure you will do for the rest of your life). Adjust your fan so that it is reasonably wide and spray with each pass overlapping by about half. Cheers
    Every construction obeys the laws of physics. Whether we like or understand the result is of no interest to the universe.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Lomman View Post
    ... Make sure your tip is clean (as I am sure you will do for the rest of your life)....
    Man you're not kidding, what a disappointment. It had accumulated in the time between two coats, that'll never happen again.

    Thanks

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