Transporting a unisaw help

[Ray Newman]

Pat Kane mentioned motor size. A 1 1/2 HP does seem to be underpowered for that class of saw.

In 1987, I replaced a Delta 1 3/4 HP contractors saw with a 3 HP Uni-saw. If memory serves me, at that time I had a choice of either a 3 or 5 HP Uni-saw.

Also agree that the Uni-saw in the ad posted by Pat Kane is a better saw.

[Mike Wilkins]

If you have a set of hand trucks, all you should need is a trailer to tow behind your truck. That is how I took delivery of a 1000# sliding table saw I picked up at the freight terminal. Since it came in 2 containers, I jacked up the pallet and placed in on a couple of furniture dollies. These are not very expensive, great for moving, and cheap enough from Harbor Freight that if they are destroyed during the move it is not a big loss.
Unisaws are not that heavy; if you can get the assistance of a friend with a strong back, you can load it onto the bed of your truck with a carefully planned lift, then strap it down.
You will still need to check the alignment after getting it set up in your shop; recommended after a move anyway.

[Ted Derryberry]

Apparently there is a market for cabinet saws with smaller motors. http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/pm...ystem/1791001K It just depends on what you want to do with it. Resale would also be a consideration though. Once a friend of mine bought a 6 cylinder pickup. He couldn't give it away when he was ready to trade.

[Matt Day]

I’d pass on the $800 Uni from Akron. For one thing I personally think it’s ugly, but it’s also missing the dust door, motor cover, and i prefer a Biesemeyer type fence. Also, he said the top was ground flat, I wonder how much material he took off, and more importantly did the miter slots get ground down proportionally? If not miter bats won’t be flush with the top.

As for motor size, I have a 1.5 hp motor from 1955 in my saw now. It’ll cut through anything but on 2”+ stuff feed rate has to slow down. The motor in this particular saw looks newer, so it’s probably not the same as my 1.5.

The one Patrick mentioned in Columbus looks like a better deal.

[Rick Potter]

Where I live that saw would be sold quickly at that price. Your area may differ. What does it cost to machine a top? The Jet Lock fence is old school but very serviceable.

I had a '70's 1 1/2HP Unisaw, and later upgraded to a 3HP. I couldn't tell the difference in power, but I normally cut nothing thicker than 2".

My advice to you as a newbie would be to never show an ad for something your are PLANNING to buy. If it is deal, you may find it sold when you finally arrive. I lost an antique car that way when asking advice on what people thought of it.

[Roger Marty]

Apparently there is a market for cabinet saws with smaller motors. http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/pm...ystem/1791001K It just depends on what you want to do with it. Resale would also be a consideration though. Once a friend of mine bought a 6 cylinder pickup. He couldn't give it away when he was ready to trade.

I bought the SawStop PCS 1.5. It does everything I want it to do and I've not noticed the 1.5hp being a limitation for me. In using it for a year, I've perhaps notice it bog down one or two times. But I also have *only* used a 50t combo blade even when ripping 8/4 maple.

I don't have 220V in my very-small shop and didn't see the need to add it.

[Charlie Velasquez]

I had helped move three tablesaws before moving my own. The three did not remove or otherwise brace the 40-50 pound motor before moving. Two survived the move fine. One ended up with a broken motor bracket. .I figured 1 out of 3 odds was too high for me, and parts are hard to find. I removed the wings, top, and motor, taking a vhs video of myself as it came apart. Made cleaning and lubing easier, and disassembly and assembly made it more understandable when I aligned it and later worked on general maintenance.YMMV.

[Mark Wooden]

Nothing wrong with a Jetlock fence or a 1.5 hp motor; I have a Uni set up like that so it's easy to move around and it's quiet and very accurate. No, it doesn't have the balz of my 5 hp direct drive Oliver 270D, but it doesn't rip 8/4 hardwood all day either. You have to define your own needs there....
But if the current, or previous, owner had the top ground-take a pass. While it looks pretty and cool, every accessory that uses the mitre slots won't fit-they'll be too thick and be proud of the top unless you get them ground also. That saw isn't worth the asking price if it's been ground, it would need a replacement table IMO. The other one shown would be a better buy, provided it runs as advertised.

[Patrick Kane]

I posted the other saw not as evidence that the original saw is crap--it isn't--but I used it as an evidence the original saw is overpriced. For $800-900, you should get a fully functioning single phase unisaw that is 10-20 years old.

If you don't mind a project and are up to the task, I bet you can get some of these project saws cheaper than list price.

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls...464434097.html

I'm unfamiliar with working on 66's, but the unisaw without a motor and without a fence for $150-200, could be a good deal. New 3hp single phase baldor is around $425(there is a very specific motor mount for the unisaw), multitude of new and used fences out there to be had for $200-300, and throw in another $25 to replace the arbor bearing. You will come in at or slightly above your current budget and have a first class restored saw. Might be better off to buy the one with a fence and no motor, especially if it has a unifence. Really is pretty simple to swap a motor, wire a switch, and swap the arbor bearing.

Agreed, if you are experienced and know what you want, don't start a thread online. In this case, I think the group stopped this guy from over paying for a pig with lipstick.

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you everyone for your help. I ended up buying the single phase unisaw that Pat recommended (thanks for that find!)

It is a 36-955 single phase with a biesemeyer fence and extension table. Overall, the saw is in great shape and works well. the far end of the extension table is popping up a bit, but other than that nothing appears to be wrong.

The gentlemen also had a 6" Delta jointer model 37-220 that was in like new condition.

I ended up getting the unisaw jointer, and 5 4ft long pipe clamps for 1100$. I am very happy with the deal I got.
What do you guys think?

[Matt Day]

Doesn’t really matter what we think, glad you’re happy!