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Thread: Transporting a unisaw help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    Transporting a unisaw help

    Hello all,

    I am going to be purchasing a used unisaw. I have never moved a cabinet saw before. The guy I am buying it off has the table and fence perfectly square he says. What is the best way to transport this without messing anything up?

    I have an F150 and an SUV. I do not have a ramp or anything for my F150. It does not have an extended table.

    Thanks for your input!

  2. #2
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    When I moved my Unisaw, I left my pickup home, and rented a truck with a liftgate.

  3. #3
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    That is a good idea. I will look into that for sure.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    When I moved my Unisaw, I left my pickup home, and rented a truck with a liftgate.
    That's what I do when I have to transport heavy equipment. Makes it a very easy job and saves your back. Also, a lot less risk of having the unit fall and get damaged.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #5
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    This is easy. I just desrcibed this the other day. Use your pickup. Back up to the saw with the tailgate down . You will need one person to help tip the saw onto the tailgate and continue to rotate until it ends up upside down in your truck. I usually remove the fence first and put an old piece of carpet or cardboard under the saw. Once it is in I place one rachet strap around the back of the saw cabinet and connect it to the front of the truck box. Then take a second rachet strap and wrap it around the front of the saw and tie it in to the back of the truck box. The fence and any other pieces fit around the saw. It will ride like a dream this way. Good luck,Mike.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kees View Post
    This is easy. I just desrcibed this the other day. Use your pickup. Back up to the saw with the tailgate down . You will need one person to help tip the saw onto the tailgate and continue to rotate until it ends up upside down in your truck. I usually remove the fence first and put an old piece of carpet or cardboard under the saw. Once it is in I place one rachet strap around the back of the saw cabinet and connect it to the front of the truck box. Then take a second rachet strap and wrap it around the front of the saw and tie it in to the back of the truck box. The fence and any other pieces fit around the saw. It will ride like a dream this way. Good luck,Mike.
    This is the easiest way to do it. It can be a one person job, but easier with two. I have moved Unisaws and HD shapers this way.

    I would take the squarness issue with a grain of salt. Even moving it "conventionally" with a liftgate truck could knock it out of square depending on the handling. However, a Unisaw is VERY easy to square up. Loosen the four bolts holding the cast iron top to the cabinet and use your favorite method of squaring, tighten back down, done. The guts (arbor, trunnions, motor, etc) are attached to the cabinet so you're only moving the C.I. top.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    West Lafayette, IN
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    6,527
    As said, everybody’s definition of “perfectly aligned” is different. I would t worry about that and plan to fully tune it up and align it when you get it in place.

    The flip is the easiest safest way to move a Uni. I loaded and unloaded solo from my trailer with no problem. Remove the fence first as well as extension wings. Setting up machinery is part of using it, don’t be skerd.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    Marietta, GA
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    275
    If it's a Uni-fence that's easy to adjust also. Mine has a 52" rip capacity so there's no flipping it. I put it on a dolly and used ramps onto and off of my relatively low trailer. It was a little tricking coming off the trailer, but no damage or injury. The extension table and legs probably help with getting it on dollys. I pick up the table end get those legs on a dolly and then I pick up the saw end and put it on a dolly. With the extension table already up it's easier to get the saw high enough.

  9. #9
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    When I moved my G1023 to the basement, I removed the top (wings were already off) and motor. Easy Peasy. As Dave says, cabinet saws are pretty easy to tune. The only thing to be aware of is to keep track of any spacers between the cabinet and top.

  10. #10
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    Cleveland, Ohio
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    Thank you everyone for your help!

    I will be potentially picking up the saw tomorrow afternoon. I am just getting into woodworking and trying to set up my shop, so I am looking forward to it! The saw seems to be a good deal. What are your thoughts?

    https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/t...460816419.html

  11. #11
    I find that temporarily removing the tail gate is helpful. Put something on the edge of the bed to avoid scratching anything. I use a mudflap from a semi that I picked up from the side of the road. A cardboard box folded flat or a doubled up moving blanket would suffice too.

    The lower your pickup bed is, the better.

    Like mentioned in posts above, lean the saw over and flip it up onto the bed, then continue on over until its upside-down.
    Frankie

    I have a great Border Collie, she just can't hold her licker!

  12. #12
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    I wouldn't trust anybody's "perfect". It could get thrown out of wack with the move. Remove the fence. Back the truck up to it and flip it onto it's top. Realign it when you get it home.

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mazzino View Post
    Thank you everyone for your help!

    I will be potentially picking up the saw tomorrow afternoon. I am just getting into woodworking and trying to set up my shop, so I am looking forward to it! The saw seems to be a good deal. What are your thoughts?

    https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/t...460816419.html

    Personally, i wouldnt buy that machine. It has an ancient and inferior fence design, and it is under powered. I think some people use a jetlock fence without complaint, but they are in the minority. Second, if you own a unisaw, then you want atleast a 3hp motor. I know the 40s/50s bullet motors punched above their weight class, but this motor is new and should be 3hp. I know this is probably a drive for you, but im only using it as an example of what you really need to look for

    https://columbus.craigslist.org/tld/...463937075.html

    Notice how it has a proper fence, 3hp motor, and it isnt missing the motor cover and front plate. It also has a high quality magnetic starter instead of a $15 switch. If you feel good about the original saw and are jonesing for one right this second, then go get it. Otherwise, i think your future would be better served by waiting for something similar to what i posted. Or, drive and get the one i posted!

  14. #14
    One is rather easy to pack. Two get a little tight, but do-able.

    unisaw carry - 1.jpg

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    I have to agree with Patrick. For $800 you should get a decent fence (Uni-Fence or Beisemeyer) and a front plate. As for the motor, I just retired a 1.5 HP that I used for nearly 8 years without a problem. It depends on what you want to do with it. For sheet goods and lumber up to 3/4" and even 1.5" it shouldn't be a problem. However, you should get it cheaper because of the undersized motor. The fact that the table is surface ground is enticing, mine isn't exactly flat, but close enough. I would check it though to be sure it really is flat if you're paying a premium for that. Also make sure the miter slots aren't too shallow from over grinding the surface. It would suck not to be able to use standard miter bars, jigs, etc. The motor cover wouldn't bother me, mine didn't have one either and I built one out of plywood so I could use dust collection.

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