Clarafication on Bandsaw Blades for Resaw Mark Duginske says 1/2 3 TPI Rikon Says..

[David Ruhland]

Hey Gang!

I bought the Bandsaw book by Mark Duginske like you guys recommended. I have read it cover from cover and have learned a lot. My primary issue was with the blade drift I have learned how to adjust that and the type of blade i need. Mark says in his book no blade larger than 1/2 3 TPI with hook for resawing on a 14 inch Bandsaw which is What I have. The fine folks at Woodcraft and the Rikon owners manual says 3/4 inch TPI I have a Rikon 10-326.

I am thinking maybe technology has evolved since Mark wrote the book?

Suggestions please?

[roger wiegand]

I've always used a 1/2" 3 tpi blade. The "woodslicer" blades from Highland Hardware are noticeably better than any other blade I've ever tried for resawing on my 14" Delta (and I've tried quite a few!). I just made a pile of 5" wide 1/8" veneer from maple, bloodwood, and cherry. One pass on each side through the drum sander and it was ready to use.

I think the width of the blade has very little impact on drift compared to setup of the saw and blade quality.

[Dan T Jones]

I would stick with the 1/2 inch. See how that works for you and then if you are not happy try a larger blade.
Dan

[John K Jordan]

Hey Gang!

I bought the Bandsaw book by Mark Duginske like you guys recommended. I have read it cover from cover and have learned a lot. My primary issue was with the blade drift I have learned how to adjust that and the type of blade i need. Mark says in his book no blade larger than 1/2 3 TPI with hook for resawing on a 14 inch Bandsaw which is What I have. The fine folks at Woodcraft and the Rikon owners manual says 3/4 inch TPI I have a Rikon 10-326.

I am thinking maybe technology has evolved since Mark wrote the book?

Suggestions please?

David,

My small bandsaw is a 14" Delta. I used 3/4" blades on it for some time. I bent the tensioning bracket trying to get them tensioned properly. I replaced the bracket with a stronger one from Iturra Design, installed a high-tension spring, and bought a Starrett tension gauge.

The bottom line: no way the Delta can tension the 3/4" blade that WoodCraft sold me and that Delta said was OK. Sure I could tighten it up all the way and it would run and cut wood, but the tension could not get anywhere near that recommended by the blade manufacturer according to the Starrett tension gauge. Note that the gauges on nearly all bandsaws are notoriously inaccurate. Even the indicator on my 18" Rikon is way off. One of the authors recommends if a tension gauge is not available set the indicator on the bandsaw to the next higher setting. The 14" Delta marks top out at 3/4" so going by that a 1/2" blade is the maximum.

I stick to 1/2" blades on the 18" Rikon although it will probably tension larger blades. The 1/2" are fine for what I use it for.

Did you try the digital caliper method of setting the blade tension? That might at least let you know what tension you are using.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...33#post2640833

Note there is a lot of controversy over the "proper" tension to use. Some people advocate running a much lower tension than the blade makers recommend.

JKJ

[David M Peters]

My Laguna 1412 has been able to adequately tension most of the 3/4" blades I've put on it, but I was unable to get an especially thick 3/4" blade from Timberwolf to run without flutter. As with all blanket statements there are always exceptions!

[Nick Decker]

David,

I think I mentioned in your earlier thread that I also have the Rikon 10-326. While I love the saw and would recommend it to anyone looking for a 14" saw, you can take much of what Rikon says for what it is: marketing.

They tell you it will take a 3/4" blade, and it will. I tried it, and it cut wood. But, similar to what JKJ posted, I couldn't get enough tension on the blade. The saw was at its absolute limit and it made me nervous just standing close to it.

I've had good luck with the 1/2" and 5/8" blades sold by Spectrum Supply as the KERFmaster (same blade as the Highland Wood Slicer), although I really haven't noticed any advantage to the 5/8" over the 1/2". (Note: Spectrum admitted to me that their website shipping calculator isn't accurate. Best to figure out what you need, then give them a call.)

Oh, and that convenient little window that lets you see the tension gauge? Might as well put some tape over it, it'll just confuse you. I find the gauge to be useless. Two different 1/2" blades will give you two different readings, depending on what they're made of.

What has worked for me is to use the flutter method to get in the ball park, then cut some wood, see how it does. Once you're happy with it, shut it down and FEEL how tight the blade is. It won't take long for you to know by feel how tight it needs to be.

[David Ruhland]

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/t...i-alternet-set

Is this what you would suggest if i walked into my woodcraft and picked one off the shelf? not to sound dumb, but what is the "flutter" you experienced folks speak of?

[Jim Becker]

Even on my larger, heavier MiniMax MM16, I tend to use 1/2" 3 TPI blades for re-saw work most of the time...

[Nick Decker]

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/t...i-alternet-set

Is this what you would suggest if i walked into my woodcraft and picked one off the shelf? not to sound dumb, but what is the "flutter" you experienced folks speak of?

I haven't used Timberwolf blades, myself, but have seen both good and bad reviews. Like I said, I like the Spectrum or Highland blades.

Search YouTube for "bandsaw flutter method" and you'll see several videos about how to do it. Basically, apply moderate tension and make sure your blade is tracking correctly. Turn the saw on (wearing eye protection, duh) and tighten the tension until the fluttering blade becomes a nice straight line. Give it another quarter turn for good measure and you should be good. Works for me.

[John TenEyck]

The only inherent advantage of a wider blade over a narrower one is it has higher beam strength, but that is only true if both are tensioned equally. Beam strength is important in a production shop because it allows higher feed rates. For a hobbiest it's bragging rights at most. From the saws I've had experience with you would be better served using blades no wider than one size narrower than whatever is claimed by the manufacturer. The advise to use a 1/2" wide blade on your 14" is consistent with my experience. A 1/2" x 3 tpi blade set up to cut straight will saw veneer up to 10" thick straight and true. Most 14" saws don't have enough HP to do it quickly, but it will get the job done.

John