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Thread: Circular saw recommendations

  1. #1

    Circular saw recommendations

    My old saw just breathed his last, and I need a new one.

    I build a lot of tables about 1 a month for clients and I use my circular saw to straight line cut the top edges after glue up. That is 99.9% of what I use it for.

    Depths I cut are anywhere from 8/4 to 4/4; so rather thick material.

    I would really love a track saw but really not wanting to spend that kind of money right now as I'm trying to save up for a domino. I have some of the ridgid Gen5x tools/batteries; would anyone recommend going with the cordless ridgid saw?

    Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
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    If you're mostly working in a shop, not on-site, I'd stick to a corded saw. Less expensive to start, and no new to replace batteries when they eventually wear out. If you're working on a construction site, the cordless means you have power without searching for an outlet and extension cords.

    A corded saw guided by a straightedge does pretty much what a track saw does at 20% of the cost. There are some downsides, but if budget is a big consideration, stay with it.

  3. #3
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    Forget the Domino--get the track saw.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  4. #4
    I just bought a new circ saw a couple months ago. I wish I would have spent more time researching. I did get one with a magnesium base. This gives the base a wider more square edge. This is useful when using a straightedge like Jamie mentioned. I'm glad I paid a little extra for this feature. The second key feature is an automatic brake. I didn't get this and wish I had. I didn't think it was worth the extra cost, but I now know it is.

  5. #5
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    I just bought one a few months ago. It's a Makita and was rated well. Don't remember model #, I'm not in shop right now. I like it. Research this well. some have flimsy, unstable sole plates. Which one did you get Adam Cloud?

  6. #6
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    My most recent sidewinder saw is a corded Dewalt. It came from Lowe or Home Depot. I don't remember which.
    They both carry them.

    My old saw disappeared in the Harvey flood.
    Last edited by lowell holmes; 01-17-2018 at 2:23 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Austin Texas
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    After 30-40 years of using a (heavy, powerful) geared saw for heavy duty use, I swapped out for a lighter Makita a couple of years ago and do not regret it one bit. Admittedly, I am not using the saw all day-every day as I was when I carpentered for a living, but the Makita serves my home shop needs just great. Well balanced, not anywhere near as heavy and powerful enough for anything I have tried, including long rips on timber where the blade is buried the entire 8' length of cut (for finish up with a hand saw). No undue heating of the motor.
    David

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    I have a 35 year old Craftsman that I inherited from my Dad after he passed away. But mostly I use an 18V Ryobi that works well for my needs. I also have his Cratsman drill that complements my Ryobi hand drills.
    I don't know how well the newer stuff will hold up but the older Craftsman is pretty good.

  9. #9
    I have an older Milwaukee that I use occasionally and like. I also have an older Ryobi cordless I use a bit more. But it's depth of cut may not be enough for your uses, it won't quite go through 1.5 inch wood. There are newer models, however, up to 7.25 inch blades. With lithium ion batteries, preferably 4 amp hour, I think it would do what you describe.

    You'll have to answer which you need more but a track saw is not really like a circular saw plus straight edge. I used the latter for years and it works fine for rough cuts but not well at all for finish cuts. Track saws make cuts every bit as good as a table saw and every bit as accurately. I tried better blades on my circular saw but it still was not like my track saw. But if a fairly rough cut is OK for your uses, a Domino might be more important. I don't have one, I make mortise and tenon joints with my hollow chisel mortise or plunge router. But neither is as quick and handy as I suspect a domino would be.

  10. #10
    The top of the heap DeWalt is my first choice. It can be adjusted so blade is parallel to the edge of the base, which is very handy when using a guide. Not a light weight though. Check out a couple pawn shops for used ones. I have both yellow ( DeWalt,) and black (B&D Industrial) versions. Same saw, just different colors.

  11. #11
    Went through the same decision making episode a few months ago after my 25 yr. old circular saw smoked and died. Bought a high end Makita 5007MGA with electric brake. It is corded because I simply don't want to worry about the lifespan of batteries. It is likely the last circular saw I will ever purchase and the brake was the deal clincher. Very solid and works exceptionally well.

    Norman

  12. #12
    Thanks guys!

    Is a worm drive worth the extra $ ?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Victory View Post
    Thanks guys!

    Is a worm drive worth the extra $ ?
    I use a sidewinder, and find a worm-drive awkward. I think that for emulating a track saw, the sidewinder would be easier to keep tight to the straightedge.

  14. #14
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    Worm drives are powerful and may very well outlast your need of them, but,,,,,,,,,,,,, they are heavy and cost quite a lot. It is your call as to whether you need the extra power. I used one for years for commercial purposes and it worked best when cutting double thickness 3/4" ply wood for concrete form construction and 2x4/4/4 braces all day without overheating. I finally let it go a couple of years ago to lighten the load and have not missed it at all so far. Your call, but may be better finding a used one or pawn shop special to lower the cost if you really want one.
    David

  15. #15
    Anyone have any experience or knowledge on the triton track saw? Seems like a cheaper option to the Festool but can’t seem to find many reviews.

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