dovetail saw

[Derek Cohen]

I've got the LV models, both rip and crosscut. The crosscut saw is a bit of a grabby thing. It doesn't start cutting easily and tends to take too big of a bite for my liking. I find that I need to adjust my technique in order to make it cut the way I expect it should. I'm hoping with more 'training' it will become a favorite tool for me but right now its not. I'm looking for a simple way to tame it down a bit.

Hi Pat

Those symptoms sound like there may be too much set. If you agree, then there are ways to reduce this.

One way is to give each side a stroke with a 600 or 1200 diamond stone. Just once, then test. The other way is to fold a sheet of copy paper over the length teeth, and then either squeeze in a vise or gently tap with a metal hammer along the length. The aim for both is to reduce excess set. The paper method limit the set to the thickness of a sheet of copy paper.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

That's the way I have dealt with set.
I had to file a saw teeth off and re-tooth. I set the teeth and then evened the set on diamond hones.

I have or had a saw set. It disappeared after a Harvey clean-up.

https://books.google.com/books?id=YX...driver&f=false

[ken hatch]

I've got the LV models, both rip and crosscut. The crosscut saw is a bit of a grabby thing. It doesn't start cutting easily and tends to take too big of a bite for my liking. I find that I need to adjust my technique in order to make it cut the way I expect it should. I'm hoping with more 'training' it will become a favorite tool for me but right now its not. I'm looking for a simple way to tame it down a bit.

Pat,

a light stoning of the tooth line should work.

ken

P.S. I did not see the other replys before posting, sorry.

[Ron Bontz]

Just my uneducated 2 cents. Stoning the sides of the saw teeth do nothing more than file away the cutting points. Yes, it will push easier, but at a cost to the cutting ability of the saw. FWIW Before blaming the LV saw, which is pretty relaxed already, I would work on technique. LV saws do not generally have too much set. Not so easy to reverse the change in geometry of the saw teeth. Some folks expect the saw to glide across the wood like a mill file. Then they say it "cuts like butter". It's more like cutting with a butter knife. I have used, owned, and sharpened ever brand out there except Blackburns. I have also heard the same complaints about those same brands. So, in the end. Better to alter and evaluate the tehcnique than permanently change the geometry of the teeth. If you lived close by I would invite you to my little shack. Best of luck to you.

[Derek Cohen]

Good words, Ron.

One of the nagging memories I have is a dovetail saw I restored. I filed the teeth 17 tpi rip with a fairly relaxed 8 or 9 degree rake. I decided not to add set to the teeth, arguing that it was just a dovetail saw making shallow cuts. Well, it cut with a jerkiness and stuttered along. I then added set, and the saw proceeded to glide through the wood. In other words, the very same symptoms of too much set can also resemble too little set. Yes? And, yes, in my experience, the Veritas saws err on the too little set side.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

A question for both Ron and Derek,
How do you level the set after sharpening and setting the teeth.

I have or had two saw sets. I haven't seen them since the Harvey flood.
One is a Taintor and the other I don't remember the name.
I typically do a screwdriver set.

[Pat Barry]

To make the saw cut it feels like I need to lift up a bit to take out some of the bite. Not ready to change anything yet about the set but I do appreciate the comments. The saw is very sharp. Now a Japanese pull saw I have from rockler does cut like a knife in butter.

[Pete Taran]

Pat,

Back in the day when I used to make and sell saws, I went to quite a few trade shows. I always had a bench set up with some stock for people to try. Almost in every case, folks put too much downward pressure in the cut. They couldn't start the cut, and when they could get it started, it jumped and bounced in the kerf. When I taught them to relax, and pretend they were sawing in air and slowly contact the work, presto, they were off to the races. Not knowing your skill with a saw, could this be the case? A sharp saw is a ton more grabby than one that is dull. It takes considerably more skill to use a very sharp saw than one that is duller.

Also, I don't advocate stoning the teeth to remove set for the reasons stated. It does remove a little metal, but it also dulls the part of the tooth that does the cutting on the edge of the kerf.

Finally, you can measure the saw with a micrometer and see if there is too much set. When I made the IT saw, the plate was .020" thick, and I aimed for a max of .024" thickness at the cutting edge. If you measure it and it's .030, I agree that is too much set. If it's in the zone I mention, then I think it's technique.

[Patrick Walsh]

I don’t cut dovetails everyday or even every month for that matter. But when I do I I have two choices.

One being a Japanese pull saw and the other a badaxe stiletto. Both do a fine job but the Japanese saw just does the job with so much more ease and imop finesse.

Now I do have a mild case of tendonitis or and or carpal tunnel somthe light weight of the Japanese saw is noticed on my part. Or maybe it’s the weight of the badaxe saw that I notice most. As much as I relate weight in most cases with quality for me in saw and many hand tools I find it a deterrent.

Both are fine choice thought and more than get the job done. If I was a practice guy and from what people have to say I would just get the LV or LN. I’m not even a little frugal or practical so......

[Pat Barry]

I've used handsaws for 40+ years but there is always room for improvement as I am a weekend warrior, not a professional. I will work on my process a bit more before giving up on either of the saws. These are my first dedicated dovetail saws. My previous experience is with standard backsaws and I don't recall ever having as much trouble with those as I do these newer saws. Maybe they are just too sharp for me right now. LOL

[Bill Sutherland]

I am looking at the LN and some others mentioned here but leaning towards the Glen Drake dovetail saws.

[David Eisenhauer]

A single "gents saw" type handle just does not feel as ergonometric to me. Glen's saws look well made, but I would definitely have to try one before buying because other single handled saws never felt right or comfortable to me.

[Bill Sutherland]

Glen has some interesting videos on his saws.

[Derek Cohen]

I reviewed that saw several years ago: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...oinerySaw.html

Mixed feelings - I applaud Kevin Drake for his innovative mind. Plus he is a real gentleman. I just did not like the saw on a few levels.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Regardless of the handle's shape ( I can't hold a Gents saw handle) I have seen way too many people try a "Death Grip" while trying to use a saw...any saw.

Use only enough pressure in the grip to guide the saw.....NOT squeeze the life out of the handle.....Just a nice, loose and easy grip will do wonders.

They used to tell a rookie by the way they would hold a sword........

As for my not holding a "broom handled Gent's saw"? Uncle Arthur (Itis) has more to do with that.....I can no longer swing an Estwing hammer...I could, but the hammer would go flying..."Sorry about that!"

Currently, I just use an old Disston No.4, 14", 11 ppi rip to do such things as joinery work. YMMV