Seeking Bandsaw Blade Recommendations and Insight

[Art Tripp]

I would appreciate any recommendations and insight in regard to bandsaw blades.

My shop presently consists of a 10" table saw, a 10" radial arm saw, scroll saw, router & table, as well as a selection of handheld power tools and other items. I am purchasing a bandsaw to increase my capabilities and am now down to finalizing my blade selection. After much research and consideration I have chosen the Laguna 18BX. (Sidenote: At some point in the future I may possibly purchase a 10" Rikon (or perhaps a used 14" saw) for smaller / detail work and to fill the gap between my scroll saw and the 18BX, but until then the 18BX will be my only bandsaw and I have other equipment needs before an additional bandsaw.)

Specifications:
18" bandsaw
Motor - 3hp, 230v
Blade length - 145"
Blade width - 1/8" to 1-1/4"
Resaw capacity - 16"
Throat - 18-7/32"
Guides - Laguna Ceramic
Weight - 410 lbs

My most frequent tasks will be:

General woodworking with a variety of wood ranging in thickness from 3/8" to 3/4", as well as 2" thick stock. Projects will include a multitude of decorative and craft-type projects, furniture making (primitive & simple designs and not so much fine furniture), and similar projects.

Resaw work will include a multitude of full 2" thick boards ranging in width from 5-1/4" - 8". I have a one-room schoolhouse (unfortunately beyond affordable restroation) that has an addition that was used for farm-type purposes, and I will be dismantling the building and repurposing the wood into useful products, requiring some of this wood will be resawn into thinner stock.

I may also do some limited tinkering around with a smaller log sections to create cookies or similar cuts, or to possibly create an occasional small project board. This will be conducted within the capabilities of the saw and my other equipment (chain saw, etc.) will be used where appropriate.

Also, my eventual plans are to obtain a portable sawmill to make use of the many hardwoods on my 103 acre tree farm. This wood will be cut to size, air or solar-kiln dried and used for a variety of projects, occasionally requiring further cutting and resawing on the bandsaw or other equipment.

Bandsaw blade collection I am considering:

Laguna Resaw King (carbide), 1", 3-4 Variable TPI

Lenox Diemaster 2 (bi-metal), 1/2", 4 TPI, Skip Tooth

Lenox Diemaster 2 (bi-metal), 3/8", 10-14 Variable TPI

Lenox Diemaster 2 (bi-metal), 1/4", 6 TPI, Skip Tooth

My intent is to be able to perform a multitude of functions with the saw, and additionally to learn of and refine my personal bandsaw abilities & needs. I have a preference toward quality and longevity, and thus my choice of brand-name carbide and bi-metal blades.

Any thoughts or opinions are welcome and it can be most helpful to hear of real world experience. I have done several hours of research but want to be sure I am on the right path before making a purchase.

Attached are pictures of the school and some of the type of products the saw will be used for. (Note: The school picture is mine, the other pictures were obtained elsewhere.)

Thank you in advance!


1 School.jpg2 Bear.jpg3 Rabbit.jpg4 Building and Table.jpg5 Springtime.jpg6 Snowmen.jpg

[Mike OMelia]

There is a very good guide at top of forum. I love the Laguna Resaw King blade. I think mine is 1 1/4”. It’s a beast.

[John K Jordan]

Art, I can't comment much on the smaller detailed things you want to cut. I have 1/4 and 3/8" blades for a 14" saw for smaller things.

I primarily use an 18" Rikon and mostly to support my woodturning addiction. Do process a LOT of log sections in to turning blanks and squares, mostly green wood and up to the 12" limit of the Rikon. For this I always use 1/2" 3-tpi blade non-bimetal Lenox blades and resharpen them as needed. (I have a woodmizer behind the barn behind the barn for logs and to make turning blanks from chunks too big for the Rikon.)

The 1/2" blade also does a great job on thick dry wood. I do resaw to get thinner pieces as needed and that blade works but doesn't leave a real smooth cut as I would want for veneer. Anything I need flat and smooth goes through the drum sander.

I would probably do some of the smaller things you show on my scroll saw just to keep from having to change the blade on the bandsaw. Changing is quick enough but adjusting the guides and tensioning properly takes some time.

I do think the bimetal blades might be good for the reclaimed wood. Some is very hard on bandsaw blades.

Just for fun, here are some pictures of my typical use of the 18" Rikon for some chunks of ambrosia maple, and the woodmizer (a lot easier for big blocks):

ambrosia_maple_IMG_20171202_141342_010.jpg ambrosia_maple_IMG_20171202_175649_933.jpg

sawmill_small.jpg
I primarily turn dry wood so most of what I process goes in racks for years to air dry.


JKJ

[John Lanciani]

If it were me I would start with only two different blades. For resaw on your saw I would use a 3/4” trimaster in whatever the coarsest pattern is (2-3 tip) and a 1/4” 6tpi diemaster.

I have a MiniMax MM20 and run a 1” trimaster and feel that it is right about at the limit of where the saw is happy. I’m almost due for a new blade and I’m going to try a 3/4” next. The 1/4” diemaster is the only blade I use on my 14” saw, it handles everything that is too thin for the trimaster.

[Tom M King]

John, Have you ever tried a Lenox Woodmaster CT 1" 1.3 on your saw? I believe someone else here runs one on a MM20. If it will tension it, you won't ever want to use anything else for resawing. I use one on a 24" saw, and it cuts as smoothly as a Resaw King does on a smaller saw, but ten times as fast. I have bought mine from bandsawbladesdirect, and every blade I've bought from them has had a perfect weld. You don't hear much about this blade because you can't run them on smaller saws, so there are not many people who have experienced them.

[Derek Cohen]

With the 1/2" bimetal blades, get them 3 tpi and not more. Higher numbers of teeth just load up and force the cut off line.

I use a 1" Woodmaster CT 1.3 and would only recommend it to those with a saw that will tension the blade correctly.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

I use a wood master CT, they're a wonderful blade.

[andy bessette]

Get the carbide blade for resawing.

[Ed Mazuronis]

I don't mean to take us too far off topic, but I'm looking to purchase my first 1" resaw blade for a Felder FB510. I've read quite a few positive reviews on the Woodmaster CT and Trimaster. I'd really like to hear from someone who has used both and could provide feedback on their experience.

[Tom M King]

I'm close to being able to answer Ed's question, but not exactly. I tried a Trimaster on a 14" saw, along with every other 1/2" blade I could find. I tried a 1" Woodmaster 1.3 on the 24" Centauro, and never needed to try anything else. I don't think the Trimaster is available with the same tooth count as the Woodmaster.

The Trimaster is designed to cut metal, but will also cut wood. The Woodmaster is designed to cut wood.

On the 14" saw, the Trimaster was almost a smooth cutting as a Resaw King. Both are VERY SLOW, but that's comparing to the 24" saw.

I would expect on your saw that the Trimaster will cut smoother than the Woodmaster, but the difference wouldn't have any important effect unless you are going to use the surface as it comes off the saw. I would expect the Woodmaster to be at least four times as fast cutting as the Trimaster, and with a surface comparable to any 1/2" blade on a 14" saw.

You don't hear a whole lot about the Woodmaster because few hobbyists have saws large enough to tension one. I have seen the cut quality coming off a 20" saw, and it's not quite as good as what comes off a 24" saw. The larger the saw, the more it can tension a blade, and generally the faster the blade speed.

[Robert Hazelwood]

I did not like the Diemaster 2 at all (mine was 4 tpi skip tooth, I think, 1/2" wide) Not sure if I got a bad blade or what, but it cut really slowly and left a terrible, torn surface. It had to be a bad example, because nobody would use them (for wood at least) if they were all that bad. And I have heard good things. At any rate I shied away from buying another and instead ordered the Kerfmaster from spectrum supply. These are quite good, much much sharper and smoother than the Diemaster. Of course they have limited blade life, being spring steel. But they are cheap. I don't think I would fool with anything else (for resaw at least) except a carbide blade. I have a 14bx so my only real option there is the 3/4" Resaw King. Maybe one day.

[Jeff Duncan]

My opinion is your going to find changing blades for every different project to become cumbersome and a real PITA. I use pretty much 1/2" and 1" blades for just about everything on my 20" saw. And it's rare I ever put the smaller 1/2" blades on, though I really don't do much craft stuff, mostly re-sawing and curved work. I'd probably start with 2 sizes and if you find you need more, then pick them up.

I bought 2 RSK blades, 1 worked well, the other was a dud, both were really, really, expensive! I now use Lenox bi-metal blades which seem to last almost as long and cost way, way less....just my experience. I've had my current blade on their for at least a year and just finished a sizable pile of 4" wide soft maple skins for some doors I'm building.....still cuts just fine.

Oh and I agree with the others you don't need a 1" blade for re-sawing, I got by with a 1/2" blade when I needed to, (when I found out my 2nd RSK was a dud!), and it did just fine re-sawing.

good luck,
JeffD

[Art Tripp]

I read the "Lets Talk Bandsaw Blades" post and it was quite helpful.

I am planning on the 1" Resaw King blade and think it should best suit my needs, particularly for the finish, and my selection of equipment to further process boards is limited so I'd like to get somewhat close with the original cut. I am also considering a less-expensive blade to use in questionable material and would very much like to avoid metal with the carbide teeth.

I think the portable sawmill will be a good addition to allow making use of the regular tree fall I have here, and hate to see things simply fall and rot on the ground. Working this into the budget (as well as a jointer/planer and other items I am wanting) will be the task.

I am leaning toward the Diemaster 2, 1/4", 6 TPI. I can envision it getting a fair amount of use and feel that the bi-metal will provided added longevity.

As I settle in with the bandsaw and the projects I will be creating, I plan on focusing primarily on tasks that require the use of one certain blade to limit my blade changes, then when I do change, to complete any cuts on the previous pieces and to focus on any similar blade needs before switching again. I have the luxury of a large supply of wood and the ability to pick and choose my individual creations, so by grouping my cuts, I should limit the overall number of blade changes.

Over time I am sure I will find the best and most overall used blade and find it resting on my machine most of the time, as well as discover any voids or lacking in my cutting abilities and refine my blade collection as needed. Starting off with one or two blades in the beginning might be a plus, though at the same time, shipping charges can also have a bearing on when and how I buy too.

Thank you for all of the replies and I appreciate the diversity of views and the many variables to take into consideration. I am purchasing the saw tomorrow and hope to obtain the blades shortly thereafter.

[Art Tripp]

I made my final choice and placed the orders for new blades last night - the 1" Laguna Resaw King, & the bi-metal Lenox Diemaster 2 in both a 1/2" 4 tpi and 1/4" 6 tpi size.

Wood Werks in Columbus has 10% off machines this weekend and without the $75 shipping charge that other dealers require this made the saw the cheapest I have found it. My Chief Financial Officer (wifey) and I made the 80 mile trip to Columbus on Friday and purchased the saw (which is now sitting in the back of my pickup).

While in Columbus, we also went to 'The Woodworking Shows' which is at the state fairgrounds this weekend where (among other things) we had the opportunity to see Alex Snodgrass and his bandsaw clinic. While I have seen many of his videos online, it was a true pleasure to see him in person and to have the opportunity to speak with him after the clinic, and additionally to speak with his father and meet Alex's wife. They are truly a class act with a wealth of helpful information and knowledge.

Thank you to all who responded and I very much appreciate the insight and the multitude of perspectives. In some ways it can be mind boggling, but it allowed me the opportunity to dig deeper into the individual aspects. I am looking forward to putting the saw to use and with my three-blade beginning, I should be able to get a good idea of what works best for my individual needs and for my various projects, where I can further adjust and refine in the future if needed.

[Andrew Hughes]

Don't make the mistake I made once and try cutting green or high MC wood with the RK blade.
It will dull it very quickly.