Which Handtools to complement Power Tools?

[Jim Becker]

A low-angle block plane, sharp chisels and my hold-fasts get very frequent use in my primarily power-tool shop. I also invested in a a couple of quality hand-saws (dovetail and crosscut) and they as well as a few other hand planes get used, too. All of these things are used for both refining workpieces as well as performing certain cuts and operations that are easier, more precise and/or safer than using a power tool.

[Marshall Harrison]

Pick up the book Hybrid Woodworking. Covers this very topic.

Ordered this book yesterday and it should arrive tomorrow.

I did an inventory of my tools today since I have been away for several years. I want to put together a hybrid shop.

[Derek Cohen]

I am a predominantly hand tool user who has power tools toget me to the stage where I can do shaping, joinery and detail work with hand tools. The predominantly power tool user is likely to use hand tools to fine tune joints and joinery, rather than create them. With this in mind ...

Chisels (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1") for squaring up corners cut by a router, and fine tuning joints.

Block plane for chamfering.

Side rabbet plane for widening grooves and dados.

Router plane for levelling floors of hinge mortices, and tuning tenon cheeks.

Smoothing plane (#4) for levelling faces.

3/4" shoulder plane to adjust rebates.

Shooting board and plane (low angle is best, such as a LA Jack) for fitting drawer fronts.

Cabinet (card) scrapers .... such wonderful tools!

Japanese crosscut saw (small) for fine cuts in joints and tuning mitres of mouldings.

Hammer for chisels, dead blow for joinery, etc.

A bench where one can use hand tools (complete with hold downs, face- and end vise).

Marking tools are also part of the predominant power user: cutting gauge, squares, knives, etc.

For my hand tool work I have considerably more than the above. :eek: ... and they would replace many of the power tools used. The ones mentioned here are those I work see as helpful for a power user.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Edit to add a PS: I believe that hand and power tools are essential for all woodworking. The mindset should not be one or the other, but use of both. There are many ways to do the work and no one is "better" than the other. Some may be more efficient, though. The grunt work that is done by machines and the speed than can be done with a handtool for one-off items.

[Philipp Jaindl]

Sorry i forgot to mention im an apprentice at a woodworking school, we got a fully equiped machine shop aswell as the standard handtools(chisels, measuring tools, Frame saws etc).

I own a set of Ashley Iles chisels, Starett combination square, dozuki, Marking knife&gauge, Stanley 4 1/2, wooden Jack & scrubplane, handrouter ,and a couple tools im forgetting, myself.
We never use the handplanes at work though, and being Austrian Metall planes are almost impossible to get.

Blockplanes i didnt think about, what do all of you use them for? And which do you recommend on a budget? Not gonna spend 150 bucks on it.

[Tom Trees]

A nice, cheap good old Stanley 5 1/2... because you need another plane or double iron, for the cap iron effect.
Was going to say low angle for end grain, but 150 bucks aint much, when talkin end grain.
Tom

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Philipp

Try and find a vintage (NOT new) Stanley #60 1/2 block plane. These can be had quite cheaply. Give the blade a 30 degree bevel. Use it to chamfer edges, and clean up here-and-there. Try also to get a #3 (my favourite) or #4 Stanley smoothing plane (also vintage and NEVER new). Learn to use it, then take it to work. In experienced hands, hand planes will save time!

Edit: Here is a #60 1/2 for sale.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Henderson]

The 60 1/2 is an excellent block plane. However, my favorite is the 65 with the knuckle joint cap. Whatever block plane you get, get a modern iron for it, such as the LV PM-V11. Except for how the plane fits into your hand, the blade makes the block plane.

Also, I'd recommend you sharpen to a 25 degree bevel. If that doesn't hold up, you can always put a secondary bevel at a higher angle, such as 30 degrees. But you can't put a 25 degree secondary bevel on a 30 degree primary bevel.

Mike

[Derek Cohen]

Mike, the reason I suggested 30 degrees fot the #60 1/2 is that a higher cutting angle is preferred in a plane that is more likely going to be used on chamfering edges and trimming face grain than in planing end grain. For end grain, the better plane is a low angle jack.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Randy Heinemann]

I am primarily a power tool woodworker who has realized, over time, that sometimes hand tools can be a better choice for finish work.

I own some handplanes - 2 block planes (one metal and one wood), a tiny "violin maker's plane" (sort of like a miniature block plane) for very small finish work and chamfering, a smoothing plane, and a jointer plane (from long ago which I don't use very much anymore).

I own a spokeshave for shaping sometimes, a cabinet scraper, and some card scrapers.

I own chisels, one Japanese chisel excellent for paring, some standard chisels.

I don't own any hand saws like dovetail saws; only a flush cut saw and one other low quality saw I sometimes use to rough cut small pieces before working on them.

These hand tools work for me as support for my work with my table saw, bandsaw, routers/router table, sanders, and lathe. What you buy depends, to some degree on what work you most often do. If you frequent hand cut dovetails, you will need a good dovetail saw and some great chisels. Most importantly, to make planes and chisels function well and without frustration, they need to be sharp which requires acquiring some sharpening equipment and skills. It has taken me a long time to find my preferred method of sharpening and realize that my chisels and planes weren't really sharp. Sharpening scrapers requires some additional skills and tools. It's not that sharpening is extremely hard, but getting good at it and getting your tools to the point that only ongoing maintenance is required is a bit time consuming at first.

I would also recommend, after experience with cheaper chisels and planes, it pays to buy high quality planes and chisels if you want to get the most out of those types of tools - meaning Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley for planes and careful research and selection of chisels (many more choices for good quality chisels).

[Philipp Jaindl]

There kinda lies the Problem, getting any Stanley/Record or any old metal Planes is just about impossible here and shipping from the UK or US costs like 30 to 40€. Which makes that 25 or 30 $ Blockplane alot less attractive and if i have to buy a modern iron for it too then i might aswell buy a Brand new Veritas or LN.

I didnt wanna spend that much to be honest, it would only pay off if i bought at least 1 or 2 more tools along with the Blockplane from the same seller otherwise shipping just doesnt pay off.

As for saws i really prefer Framesaws over Panelsaws, just more comfortable and versatile for me. Traditionally we never had the Panel-, Carcass, Tennonsaws etc because we didnt need them the Framesaw depending on the blade in it does everything just fine if you know how to set it up and use it.

[David Bassett]

There kinda lies the Problem, getting any Stanley/Record or any old metal Planes is just about impossible here and shipping from the UK or US costs like 30 to 40€. ...

Where are you? As you point out, that has a big effect on what should be suggested. We usually assume US, unless you say or are very well known (e.g. Derek in Australia.)

BTW- You can add (general) location to your profile and it will show up in all your post, solving this issue once & for all.

[Philipp Jaindl]

Where are you? As you point out, that has a big effect on what should be suggested. We usually assume US, unless you say or are very well known (e.g. Derek in Australia.)

BTW- You can add (general) location to your profile and it will show up in all your post, solving this issue once & for all.

Ah ok, i have done that, I'm in Austria btw which i have wrote before but probably went under.

[Jim Becker]

I gotta imagine there are woodworking retailers in Austria or nearby that carry typical hand tools...and a block plane is pretty darn common. You may be able to find on in whatever local "home center" type store that sells tools is, too. Even an inexpensive, mass market block plane can be tuned up and made serviceable with some effort. But investing in a good one will pay off in the long run.

[David Bassett]

Ah ok, i have done that, I'm in Austria btw which i have wrote before but probably went under.

Have you tried DIctum in Germany? They have a really good rep, but most of in the US don't have much experience with them.

[Ben Rivel]

Off-topic: Ben, I didn't find that book to be of much value to me. Maybe I missed something. What did you learn from that book that you got value out of? Give me some idea and I'll go re-read those parts.
Thanks man.
-Fred

Not much for me either, but thats because I have followed The Wood Whisperer for years and learned everything he had to say in that book from his videos and the world of other woodworking information sources out there. That said, if one is new to the craft and asking such a question, I think there is a lot in that book that is good to be introduced too early on.