finishing,,

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Here is what Watco puts in its Danish Oil finish, right from the MSDS sheets.

Watco Danish Oil volatiles.jpg
As you can see there is 75% volatiles in it , then there is the other ingredients, not quite as much as you can see, raw BLO and vegetable oil plus

The other products in the Watco Danish oil.jpg

[Prashun Patel]

I apologize if I missed someone saying this, but one thing I have not seen mentioned yet is that Danish oil is intended to be wiped on and wiped off.

The first coat will likely raise the grain. That benefits from fine sanding after the first or second coat (400-600).

Subsequent coats are intended to be wiped off. There are reported cases where people have been able to build a finish with it, but the majority end up with a very very thin, in-the-wood finish that is satin to the touch.

It can take several coats to achieve this depending on how porous your wood is, and how much you have sanded. On walnut sanded to 220, it may take 4 coats. On cherry sanded to 600, it may be done after 2.

[Bob Bergstrom]

That's a great point. What kind of oil did you use? Some people I know mix about 1/3 each of BLO, poly, and mineral spirits.

That's a beautiful finish on the walnut.

JKJ

John, the truth is I just dump what might be 50/50., maybe 60/40? Go easy on Japan drier. The Japan label may be 1oz to a gallon. I use a plastic pop bottle when mixed so I can squeeze out any air. It will glaze over in a jar or can. It stays liquidfied well in the pop bottle.

[John K Jordan]

John, the truth is I just dump what might be 50/50., maybe 60/40? Go easy on Japan drier. The Japan label may be 1oz to a gallon. I use a plastic pop bottle when mixed so I can squeeze out any air. It will glaze over in a jar or can. It stays liquidfied well in the pop bottle.

Good tip on the plastic bottle. I use a inert gas to displace the air in all my finish containers but not everyone has an extra cylinder and regulator sitting around.

Bob, do you remember the type of oil you used? I'm not sure it matters much but it might give some readers a starting point.

JKJ

[Art Mann]

I used to build a certain walnut clock design a lot and I used Watco Danish Oil. I applied the material mainly as a colorant and grain enhancer. I would apply a coat and then wipe it carefully a few minutes later. I would repeat this the next day. After letting it dry thoroughly (maybe 5 days in warm weather), I rubbed the surfaces vigorously and then used several coats of Johnson's Paste Wax to create the desired sheen. Wax is not a very good protectant of wood, but that doesn't matter with mantle clocks. To renew the finish, all that is required is a worn out t-shirt and some hand buffing. Rarely, I might apply a very light coating of wax but that generally isn't necessary.

I suggest you read the application instructions on the can. What you are doing does not bear any resemblance to the directions on the brand I use.

[Travis Porter]

I like one written by Bob Flexner. I think it is available from Taunton press.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I believe it was minwax danish oil at Menards for $10 a quart and the poly was varathane gloss in a quart. Japan Dryer was fromRocklar, but I think Menards had that cheaper.

[Marshall Harrison]

I like one written by Bob Flexner. I think it is available from Taunton press.

Thanks Travis. I assume that would be this one - https://www.amazon.com/Understanding...inishing&psc=1

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Looks like Minwax is Watco or visa verse, and the earlier post is showing the ingredients for those “Finishes “

Like 75% volatiles and then some raw linseed oil and vegetable oil plus heavy metals or these oils will not harden up by themselves.

Watco Danish Oil volatiles.jpg The other products in the Watco Danish oil.jpg

Watco = Minwax.jpg

[Neil McWilliams]

Finishing is so individual. Most buyers like glossy finishes, most turners like the features that a matte (oil) finish produces. A good finish always magnifies tool miscues but expert sanding can manage most of those. With better technique, less time sanding and fixing. My go to routine is to cut as clean as possible, sand to 220 (80 and 120 grit with powered sander, higher grits with inertial sander), coat with lacquer based sander-sealer, burnish with dry shaving or paper towel, then sand to final grit with inertial sander. One coat of gloss Wipe on Poly (WOP) will leave a slight sheen when buffed and can be left as such. Two more coats applied 8-12 hours apart followed by buffing with tripoli and sometimes white diamond wheels will produce a high gloss. Never use more than 3 coats; 2 or 3 coats will produce a waterproof vessel (if never placed in dishwasher or left to soak in sink). Knots should be coated over with a dilute shellac wash; otherwise resin bleedthrough is possible. Shellac is compatible with all overcoatings but very prone to water spotting and scratching if used as final coat. Flexner's book is excellent and shoots holes in lots of advertising claims. In the end you will find your own way and the look you like.

[Rich Aldrich]

The first interest I had in danish oil was after watching Bill Grimbines first bowl making video. I kind of follow what he did, including the liquid refreshment for me.

First, dont wipe it dry until the end of this whole process. Soak the first coat on and keep the wood wet for a few minutes -let it set wet. Come back and make the bowl wet again after 15 minutes, repeat in 15 minutes, and a final time after 15 minutes. I let it set for another 10 minutes or so and wipe it dry. My bowls are always smooth. I haven't had roughness issues. The wood I use is all North American hardwoods. I did one Mesquite bowl and it turned out smooth.