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Thread: Timber Framing chisels?

  1. #16
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    In response to Mike Holbrook, I took a piece of maple and made a hexagon on on the table saw. Then I hand planed the corners of the hexagon to make 12 sides.
    Then with a spoke shave I rounded the edges. A little sanding and I had a round handle. I bought a chrome plated sink drain and hack sawed a chrome ring to
    put on the striking end eliminating wood fracture.

    My ability to make pictures and post them was taken away by Hurricane Harvey.
    Last edited by lowell holmes; 01-16-2018 at 9:38 AM.

  2. #17
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    I decided I might as well get blanks for making pegs for drawbores, while I was removing wood for a bracing spot. Certainly there are easier ways to remove the wood in this project, those methods do not produce peg blanks, define the limits of bevel edge chisels or build chisel skills that may apply to timber framing joinery. I won a 3/4” framing/corner chisel and watching others. Highland is out of stock on the Barr timber chisels.

    5089CB28-D4C4-4D4C-A145-21EA1A99D668.jpg

    I am working on chair legs too Lowell. I need to make a rest with a 90 degree notch, so I can hold legs securely while I work. The work I have been doing is making it obvious that I need a much heavier planing bench. I need to finish the work table/bench I am working on first. Yes, an adjustable height bench to build a bench with. The adjustable height table/bench is on wheels so I can use it to support work at the planing bench and other cabinets, worktables, larger tools....Maybe when I get moved and have more woodworking time.
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 01-17-2018 at 11:22 AM.

  3. #18
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    Mike, not sure your time frame for needing the chisels, but you can always order direct from Barr. You can even call them and will probably speak with his wife, Ginger. Very nice folks and the tools are first rate as others have said.

    Kevin

  4. #19
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    Right Kevin. I have had Barr Tools bookmarked for years. I have a set of Barr Carpenters chisels that I bought during a Highland sale years ago. I was hoping to hold a 1 1/2, 2, 1 1/4 to get a better idea of which might work best for the work I plan to use the chisel for. I may restore a couple older tools to figure out what I need.

    Many of the older framing chisels I find have replacement handles. Most of the replacement handles do not have metal end caps/keepers. I can of course make a custom handle and may be able to find keepers or make new ones like Lowell did. The Narex, without a keeper, held up under my dogwood mallet better than I thought it would. I am not sure if the dogwood mallet was helping the handle out or not. Some of the handles I see use leather washers at the top of the handle or at the place the blade meets the handle.

    I am wondering what the experience of guys who have used various handle types has been regarding the handles holding up? I suspect the popularity of the Wood Is Good mallets has to do with their helping out handles. I have a WIG mallet but I think it is too light for a timber framing chisel. I am also enjoying my homemade dogwood mallets.
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 01-17-2018 at 8:44 AM.

  5. Look closely at the Sorby chisels at Lee Valley. They all appear to have tanged construction. The Barr Quarton chisels are expertly hammer forged from good steel, with heavy sockets and stout hoops. The design follows that of a Millwright's chisel. If you care about aesthetics, Barr chisels are brutally strong, well-balanced industrial art.

  6. #21
    I bought a Sorby framing chisel from Garrett Wade in 1983. They appear to be the same today and I can recommend them for quality and durability. I prefer tang chisels for heavy timber work, although many do prefer socket chisels.

    I would recommend older chisels also. There are a lot more of these chisels around than people who know how to use them.

  7. #22
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    Good to hear from you Warren,

    I won a 3/4” corner chisel and a 1 1/4” regular framing chisel, both made by Witherby. They appear to be in good shape. I have been bidding on less popular sizes which often go for a fraction of the cost. Will have to make a handle for 1. I have ash and hickory with good straight grain....
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 01-17-2018 at 11:25 PM.

  8. #23
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    I am having some difficulty distinguishing between: bench, firmer, cabinet, framing......chisel types. Typically the framing chisels are longer, specifically with longer blades. Slicks are the longest of all the chisels. It appears that much of the Slicks length is due to a longer handle, designed to be used with both hands. It may be that some of the older chisels have had substantial blade length reduction, by sharpening and grinding, over the years. I am hard pressed to accurately define some of the chisels offered at auctions.

    The Barr chisels seem to start at cabinet makers chisels- 10.5” for a 1.5” wide tool, move to a larger 13” x 1.5” bench chisel, the framing chisel is 17” x 1.5”. Barr’s cabinet makers chisel may be close to what other chisel makers term firmer chisels. I have a few Barr “Cabinet” chisels, which I bought because I wanted a chisel I would not be concerned about striking with a heavy mallet. The main issue with the cabinet makers chisels is they may be too short to make joints in 6 x 6” or 8 x 8” timbers. Wondering how others sort this issue when bidding on auction sites?
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 01-19-2018 at 8:49 AM.

  9. #24
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    Mike,
    Check with Patrick Leach. I bought a 1 1/2" framing chisel from him a few years ago, needed work, but it was only $30. After a bath in evaporust and a good honing it rules!
    That being said I've spent some time with a few of the Barr chisels and slicks and they are indeed worth every penny, you just more pennies for them than the old ones!!

  10. #25
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    Wondering how others sort this issue when bidding on auction sites?
    By looking closely and asking questions. Most of the inexperienced sellers on auction sites will call a chisel the only thing they have ever heard it called. So if they have only heard of a timber framing chisel even the most delicate paring chisel will be called a timber framing chisel.

    Same with planes, it is almost funny to see someone call a molding plane a block plane.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #26
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    Mike, those are 2 Excellent videos!! He (they) really are doing it the traditional , no power way...A pleasure to watch...Thank you,,
    Jerry

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Mickley View Post
    I bought a Sorby framing chisel from Garrett Wade in 1983. They appear to be the same today and I can recommend them for quality and durability. I prefer tang chisels for heavy timber work, although many do prefer socket chisels.

    I would recommend older chisels also. There are a lot more of these chisels around than people who know how to use them.
    Well said....
    Jerry

  13. #28
    I would hurry back up to that cabin and retrieve your axe. What can be achieved in timber framing with some good axes might surprise you.

  14. #29
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    You can find an abundance of timber framing chisels on the popular auction site.

  15. #30
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    Mar 2005
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    Philly, PA
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    I am not a timer framer, but I recently built a 12' x 10' timber frame shed using two Barr chisels. All mortise and tenon joinery and no mechanical fasteners until I put on the metal roof.
    The Barr chisels were great. Held an edge and the handles showed almost no damage at the end of the project. I would suggest getting two chisels, maybe 1 1/2 and 1" or 2" and 1 1/2". The narrower chisel makes it easier to clean up/out the joints made the larger blade.
    One other suggestion, think about the weight of the wood you a planning to use. I used yellow pine rather than oak because of the cost. After moving 6" x 6" pine beams around, I realized that oak I would not have been able to move oak beams by myself!

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