Laguna 1836 Revo modified spindle lock

[William C Rogers]

I updated my concept design to my preproduction design. I used 1/2" rare earth magnets, two each side. I glued the magnets to the steel strip, added a knob and tip cover. This is a more "Robust" design.

IMG_1151.JPG IMG_1150.JPG

[Russell Neyman]

Couldn't the indexing feature be used as a spindle lock?

[William C Rogers]

The index could be used, however John's method or mine is much, much quicker. I don't want to be putting pressure on my index wheel when loosing a chuck.

[Barry McFadden]

Once I saw this thread I wanted something to hold the button in as well. Didn't want to drill a hole in the lathe and didn't really want to mess with bending or cutting metal. I decided on this simple (possibly crude?) setup and it works well. Just a piece of Maple with 2 half inch Rare Earth magnets on each end and a piece of dowel glued to the center. The magnets are strong enough that I can stick the back of it to the lathe when I don't need it....

CAM00614.jpg CAM00611.jpg

[ELY WALTON]

Call me odd, but I really do not feel the need for locking the retaining button. I just push the lock in with one hand while putting slight pressure on the chuck wrench with the other. Then both hands are free to add more torque and loosen or tighten... the button stays put until pressure is fully released... (For sanding, etc. I just use the indexing lock.)

However, there are some very minor changes I did make to my Revo. I found that I often brushed up against and moved the speed knob while up close and personal with the headstock during close-in work. The fix was to swap the big knob with a smaller one from my Razortip burner... fixed! Also, the rubber ball on the tailstock wheel just spins on a fixed pin... After a short while, I started to pull it loose occasionally. (No rational reason... not like I have to pull the knob to unscrew the quill!) Anyway, a quick check on Amazon resulted in a nicely finished silver handle to replace the rubber ball.

But no complaints here! All the meaningful fit, finish and performance are first-rate... would buy it again in a heartbeat... And thanks for the great review and follow-up tips, John!

Ely :>)

[William C Rogers]

Call me odd, but I really do not feel the need for locking the retaining button. I just push the lock in with one hand while putting slight pressure on the chuck wrench with the other. Then both hands are free to add more torque and loosen or tighten... the button stays put until pressure is fully released... (For sanding, etc. I just use the indexing lock.)

However, there are some very minor changes I did make to my Revo. I found that I often brushed up against and moved the speed knob while up close and personal with the headstock during close-in work. The fix was to swap the big knob with a smaller one from my Razortip burner... fixed! Also, the rubber ball on the tailstock wheel just spins on a fixed pin... After a short while, I started to pull it loose occasionally. (No rational reason... not like I have to pull the knob to unscrew the quill!) Anyway, a quick check on Amazon resulted in a nicely finished silver handle to replace the rubber ball.

But no complaints here! All the meaningful fit, finish and performance are first-rate... would buy it again in a heartbeat... And thanks for the great review and follow-up tips, John!

Ely :>)

You are correct, it is not needed. My previous PM 90 lathe had a protruding button that had to be held in place to lock the spindle. I got use to it. However since I can now lock the spindle I find it easier when I am installing or removing a chuck with the spindle locked in place. Either John's pin method or my magnet method is easy to use. For sanding in a fixed spindle position I still use the index as to position the piece. Locking not needed, but I like the capability to do it.

[Steve Reckner]

I went really low-tech and just turned a slightly tapered plug to jam in the hole to keep the button held down.