Corded drill - powerful, accurate but...light

[Bill Adamsen]

Makita's LXT sub-compact 18v (2.0ah) brushless DC are very small and light (2.8 lbs), the charge lasts (for my work) all day and tops off very fast. Having a second fast charge battery means you would essentially never run out of power. They accept a wide range of amp hour batteries which is a big factor in weight management. Five years ago I might have possibly thought about using an AC drill ... now, unlikely.

[laura vianello]

I purchased a Ryobi to try but it wobbles and it is not precise enough for my 20mm bench holes. I will return it. Do not waste your money!

[Kelby Van Patten]

My first woodworking tool decades ago was a DeWalt corded drill. Lightweight, strong, precise. I still use it often.

I don't know whether they still make them as robust as the one I have.

[Marshall Harrison]

Yea....mine is my second oldest tool. I thought it might go toast a few years ago, but it's still working strong, doing pocket holes and drilling in metal when I can't take something to the drill press. The oldest tool is an orange Black and Decker circular saw that's in really excellent condition...largely because I so rarely use it since my track saw does so much nicer cutting with the majority of material I need to cut with a portable saw.

If my corded drill did die, I'd immediately replace it. As much as I love my battery drill/drivers, there are just some times when plug-in does a better job for me.

I got a 37+ year old corded Craftsman that still runs well. It was my Dad's and he passed in December of 1980 but I'm not sure exactly what year he bought it. I also have his Craftsman circular saw and a bunch of his mechanic tools.

I'm not a fn of modern Craftsman but the old stuff was built like a tank and just seems to last and last.

[Greg R Bradley]

I purchased a Ryobi to try but it wobbles and it is not precise enough for my 20mm bench holes. I will return it. Do not waste your money!

Did "drilling 20mm holes on bench" become drilling a bunch of accurate 20mm holes in a benchtop?

[laura vianello]

Not sure what you mean. The drill wobbles and the cut is not accurate enough for my bench dog.

[Greg R Bradley]

Not sure what you mean. The drill wobbles and the cut is not accurate enough for my bench dog.

I mean that I/we interpreted your original question to mean that you want a hand held drill to drill the occasional hole in wood up to 20mm. If you are thinking that you are going to buy a "powerful, accurate, light" drill to drill a bunch of 20mm holes to make a bench with accurately holes in large quantity, then you may need a different plan. If you want to drill large quantities of accurate 20mm holes that are spaced accurately then a plunge router and a boring bit are probably in order. OR possibly a jig that guides the bit. Or sub it out for CNC work. Or ????

We can help with a general purpose drill but can you be specific for the need for 20mm holes? Is it one project?

[Peter Christensen]

Since I have the same drill and have no problems. I wonder if there is a problem with the bit being bent or if there is a bad chuck on it. I would put a straight rod in it and see if the rod spins true. If it does then the bit may be at fault. If it spins and the tip “wobbles” then the jaws of the chuck may be bad or the shaft is bent. In that case return it for another and have them show you the new one is good before you leave.

I’m assuming you are using a Forstner bit and not a spade bit or similar. The latter won’t make a benchdog worthy hole.

If you have already ruled out these things then,,,,,,,,,,,,,never mind.

[Ray Newman]

"Hows" about utilizing a drill guide like the one linked below with the corded drill that you purchased from e-bay?

https://www.garrettwade.com/portable...guide-jig.html

To bore the bench dog holes the same distance from the edge, fabricate a sub base with a cleat and then utilize a clamp to hold it securely to the bench while boring??

Addendum: 1/28 -- Milescraft also has a similar and more economical portable drill stand . See: https://www.milescraft.com/product/accudrillmate/

[johnny means]

If you want to drill accurate 20mm holes with a handheld drill, you need to drill pilot holes first. A forstner or even a spade bit will easily follow an eighth inch pilot hole.

[laura vianello]

I have the jig (PARF guide) but I feel that my Hitachi Cordless 18v does not stay straight in the channel guide. I mean...it does but it vibrate too much and it has the hard time to drill all the way the 20mm hole with the Forstner bit. I feel like is moving and I think a corded drill would do good. I tried the 29$ Ryobi and it is light but not really stable. I have no way to try the Bosch Electric drill because the Lowes close by does not have it. I hope it clarify what I meant. Thanks

[Greg R Bradley]

That bit & guide are going to make that bit run accurately in the wood. If you are feeling lots of movement in the drill, it will be because the drill or chuck is not accurate. Chucks are horrible on low end drills. Even the typical $100 corded drill usually has a marginal chuck. You have to check each one to make sure it runs accurately.

Are you drilling MDF like the video for the PARF guide? If so, you will be able to get by with less drill than I was assuming before. MDF is easy to drill and has no grain. Also, MDF and the guide system will mean a side handle will not be important. If you are drilling hardwood, particularly if it is thick, then you are going to want some power and a side handle.

[glenn bradley]

I crave this same thing. I have some fine corded drills but, wish I had one with a smaller form factor.