The unisaw in ohio looks like a great option, with some dissabmly they are not hard to move, I took the rails off mine (only a few bolts) and 2 adults pushed it into the back of my suburban. I used boards to slide it off into my wood shop.
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The unisaw in ohio looks like a great option, with some dissabmly they are not hard to move, I took the rails off mine (only a few bolts) and 2 adults pushed it into the back of my suburban. I used boards to slide it off into my wood shop.
You are going to want to do a complete alignment when you get it any way to insure it is properly aligned. Those tables are generally pretty easy to remove.Originally Posted by Nick Mazzino
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
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So I have moved at least 5-6 Unisaws average of 300 kms trip.All you need is a pick-up,large or small makes no difference. Back up to saw,remove extension table and fence then flip saw onto it's top (upside down in your truck box) .This maneuver is easily accomplished by two people. I fasten them in with two rachet straps,wrap one around front of saw and fasten at the back of box,the other goes around back of saw and fastens at the front of box. pile the fence and table in and go. They ride like a dream upside down. I usually put an old piece of carpet or cardboard under them to protect the top. Mike.
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Hi
Mike Kees above has given you great advice about moving the saw upside down in the back of your truck! The saw rides alot better upside down because all the weight is on the bed of the truck. Just use lots of straps!
Good Luck!
[OP]
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Thank you everyone for all of your input. I think I am going to get the Ridgid from HD for a first starter saw. Then once I get more into woodworking and learn more keep my eyes out for a used cabinet saw or a couple years from now buy the sawstop PCS.
Can this Ridgid saw use thin kerf blades? Sorry if this is a dumb question. Like I said, I am very knew and just trying to learn as much as possible.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...4512/202500206
Thanks again!
Member
I'm sure it can, and you might want to think in that direction for cutting thick hardwood. Just know that thin kerf blades deflect more easily.
Keep in mind that most say a cabinet saw is the backbone of your wood shop. Do it right the first time if possible. If you can stretch your budget a bit, you will not be disappointed with the Grizzly 1023. A real 3 hp cabinet saw. New. Had one for 13 years, still going accurate and strong. I see they now include a router table insert, nice feature. Tons of folks here have various Grizzly products. http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3...Table/G1023RLW However that Unisaw would be the ticket as it already is fitted with a bigger table and is in your budget.
Last edited by Ole Anderson; 01-09-2018 at 10:02 AM.
NOW you tell me...
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Yes. My neighbor uses it for thick stock ripping now and then (at other times, he uses my 3HP 230V PCS for really thick lumber).
I also agree with Ole's suggestion that if at all possible, start with a cabinet saw rather than a contractor saw unless one doesn't not have space or really really doesn't have the money (most hobby woodworkers have the money to buy whatever tools they want -- including Festool -- but just choose not to). The difference is just $2000 to $2500 between a SawStop PCS and a contractor saw. It is just $200 or less a month for one year or $100 per month over two years to put aside. How many of us don't spend that kind of money eating out each month?
I had used two contractor saws (Delta & Ridgid) and one non-SS cabinet saw all these years. A year or so after SawStop was marketed, I started using the Industrial model (ICS) for three years (work-related) and then purchased my own PCS, fully equipped. I can foresee using this saw until I am done with woodworking. They say cry once...I never cried, I have smiled from day 1 owning this saw. The quality is so good that I never get frustrated with my cuts anymore. The dust collection is the best of its kind and I now don't wear a dust mask and have only the dust filtration system on, unless when roughing edge stock. No cabinet mobile bases are anywhere near the hydraulic system installed on the PCS. I can move the 400-pound animal with just one hand, even in tight corners.
The only difference between Ole and me is that I will only recommend the SawStop cabinet saw, and no other cabinet saws until and unless the time comes when other brands have the SawStop feature. Today, I would not recommend anyone to buy a new car without the pre-collision brake system, blind spot warning, lane departure warning etc. These features will soon become standard in all passenger vehicles like ABS, airbags etc.
After all, the SawStop cabinet -- now part of the Festool family -- has been the #1 selling cabinet saw in North America and no public institutions as far as I know including schools will buy a new saw that is not a SawStop.
Yes, I know a few guys much older than me and have their 10 fingers in tact despite using tablesaws with almost zero protection. But I also know two persons who have had painful tablesaw injuries over the past two years alone. Both changed their saws, one to a SawStop and other to a tracksaw system.
Simon
Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 01-09-2018 at 12:09 PM.
Contributor
I have the Griz 1023. Wonderful saw. I would hold out for a cabinet saw too. As has been said, the TS is the backbone of your shop. You'll use it more than any other tool. And if you still decide to go with a contractor's saw, beware that some won't accept Dado sets (short mandrel). My dado set is fast becoming my favorite accessory. It rocks for dados, rabbets, box joints, and tenons. I favor it every time over a router alternative.
And really research fences. A good fence is a must. Often this is what separates saw quality. If you buy a saw with a bad fence, you'll really be frustrated. And a good after market fence is at least $300. A good fence, strong motor, riving knife are essential when selecting a saw.
spend your money on the TS and look for the other tools on Craig's list. There are always routers, planers, joiners, drill presses, and sanders on there for half of new price.
A friend of mine just bought a Grizzly hybrid. He likes it. Not a bad way to go either.
Last edited by tom lucas; 01-09-2018 at 12:41 PM.
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I would keep looking for a used 3hp+, single phase Unisaw or Powermatic 66. You can find either in good enough condition and single phase for under $1000 if you keep looking. Others probably mentioned this, but you have to look every day for used equipment and cast a wide net sometimes, then be patient. It usually takes at least a month or two, if not many to find what you're looking for on Craigslist if you're being picky at all about what you want.
That being said, the finest cabinet saw isn't going to be much use for accurately or safely ripping cupped, bowed or twisted lumber. You need some way to square up your stock.
If you don't need it square for the end result and just need to rip it, I would instead buy a bandsaw and use that to rip rough lumber. Just my opinion.
Last edited by Phillip Mitchell; 01-09-2018 at 1:18 PM.
Member
The Ridgid fence I had was reasonably good (aluminum), but I have had no experience with the recent models.
Good point on buying other tools second hand.
When buying second hand tools, my guide is that the asking price for a tool less than 5 years old must not be more than 50% of the retail price. Don't forget the current retail price even for the same model may have been inflated due to yearly price increase. In addition, vendors often offer new tools at a discount for Boxing Day etc. at 20% to 30% off.
For me, there is no point of saving say $50 out of a $200 router which is probably an older model. One exception is Festool which has higher demand and less supply in the second hand market.
Simon
[OP]
Member
I hope people are still looking at this thread because you guys were very helpful. I found this unisaw. What are your thoughts. It only has 1.5hp. Do you guys think that will be an issue?
https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/t...460816419.html
Contributor
Yes if the oak is dry and not warped or not likely to pinch the blade. Its really all about the blade sharpness.I have a Ridgid saw (older model - I really like it) and the blade will stall if the wood pinches the blade. I consider this a bit of a safety factor (LOL) since the saw is underpowered for that type of wood. Its better than having the same issue result in a huge kickback event on a higher powered saw.
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Same thing as the Ridgid. See my comment above.
Contributor
My primary Unisaw has the 1-1/2 hp motor. This is not a problem.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
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