Snipe on those planers is completely hit and miss. Some can be cured with board support, others will snipe regardless of what you do.

True snipe has nothing to do with board support at all. It has to do with flexure in the head. The board enters the planer and the infeed side of the head rocks up slightly under load (taking slack/backlash out of the posts), then on the outfeed end the reverse happens. Hence your issues on both ends of the work. Even large commercial planers often can suffer from snipe and no amount of board support or lifting the in-feed or out-feed side of the board will make an ounce of difference.

We ran thousands of feet of material through a 735 that we had as a job site planer. You could lift up on the infeed board so much that you would raise the planer off the table, and then move the outfeed side and do the same, and you would still have snipe. You could bolt the planer to the table so you couldnt lift the planer at all and you could put as much upward lift on the in and out feed as you wanted and you would still get snipe.

The reason it happened regardless of supporting, or excessively raising, the in and out feed side of the board is because its simply flexure in the head.

Some 735's have a lot. Some have a little, some have none, and some have so little that its minimized enough that with additional support (in and outfeed tables) its acceptable.

The answer is to just plan the loss into your project. A planer is a roughing tool. Its not meant to leave you a finished surface. Some people who may not suffer from snipe may take 1/64" passes or less (very light).

Use your planer for what it is. A roughing tool. Be honest with yourself that your knives will be perfect for one board and one board only then you will see nicks, and defects in your surface that will require sanding. Swap your knives often to avioid burnishing which will haunt you in finishing especially if you use waterborne finishes.

Just my .02