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Thread: Is MDF strong enough for this Fancy Push Stick?

  1. #1

    Is MDF strong enough for this Fancy Push Stick?

    There are times I need to cut a 1" wide part on my contractor saw. Using my favorite well-tuned push stick, the dust collector hood/vent on my Shark Guard obstructs my reach more than I'd like. I've read about "push sticks" like this one that ride on top of my Biesemeyer fence, so I set out to make one.

    I decided to use some scrap 1/2" MDF (and save my new sheet of 1/2" baltic birch ply for something later). The pics below show what I did - it's just simple butt joints glued together with Elmer's Max wood glue. I copied a plane tote for a handle and mortised it in 1/4" deep. (Glued that in with epoxy because I cut the mortise a tad wider than Elmer's could fill.) I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to cut that mortise with a chisel and router plane. The MDF shavings looked like they were cut from a brown paper bag.

    And there's my question: Is MDF strong enough to make a good strong joint using just wood glue? Or should I have used epoxy for the joints too? What do you guys think?

    As always, thank you!
    Fred

    Pictures:

    20180106_172330.jpg
    20180106_172416.jpg
    20180106_172348.jpg
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  2. #2
    It depends on what kind of stresses you're going to give it. If you're just pushing material past a blade, you're probably fine. If you're going to jump on it, not so much. You can always put a couple of screws through the joints even though they're not ideal in MDF, it won't hurt anything either. Use a coarse thread screw and support the sides of the workpiece by clamping it together with a handscrew clamp and you'll do just fine.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Fred, I use glue and 18 gauge nails on a lot of the shop jigs I make out of MDF. Never had a problem.
    Nice push stick!

  4. #4
    Thanks guys! I appreciate the feedback.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  5. #5
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    Just be careful using that type of push stick when cutting wider pieces against the fence. I would also make the leading edge square instead of curved so it doesn't tend to lift your stock.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  6. #6
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    mdf glues fine with wood glue-- the shavings look like parts of paper bags because paper bags and mdf are made from the same stuff!

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Just be careful using that type of push stick when cutting wider pieces against the fence. I would also make the leading edge square instead of curved so it doesn't tend to lift your stock.
    Thanks Lee. I had a similar thought - if I use this on anything wider than a couple inches, it's an invitation for the stock to twist and kick back.

    I'm not following you about the rounded nose? That whole "skate" is about 12" long and about 8" of it rides on top of the board. (Edit: you can see what I mean by looking at the bottom picture. Hope it makes sense.) What are you seeing?

    Fred
    Last edited by Frederick Skelly; 01-06-2018 at 10:57 PM.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Miner View Post
    mdf glues fine with wood glue-- the shavings look like parts of paper bags because paper bags and mdf are made from the same stuff!
    Thanks Jerry!
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frederick Skelly View Post
    Thanks Lee. I had a similar thought - if I use this on anything wider than a couple inches, it's an invitation for the stock to twist and kick back.

    I'm not following you about the rounded nose? That whole "skate" is about 12" long and about 8" of it rides on top of the board. (Edit: you can see what I mean by looking at the bottom picture. Hope it makes sense.) What are you seeing?

    Fred
    Ahhh, I didn't see the notch on the one side. Is the step going to cause binding on the fence if your board thickness varies?
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Ahhh, I didn't see the notch on the one side. Is the step going to cause binding on the fence if your board thickness varies?
    No, I don't think so. In unpowered test passes, it seems to work well with anything greater than 1/4" thick (the height of the notch).

    Thanks for double- checking me Lee!

    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  11. #11
    If it were me I would not do it. This is only instinct on my part, but I suspect a risk that the handle will snap. Totes on planes are designed with the grain going forward so they do not snap.

    I realize this is a different beast, but a fail would happen mid cut and would be dangerous. If I had to do this I would use plywood for the handle.

    If you are married to the handle as is, then perhaps you drive a bolt or lag screw through the top of the tote into the deck.

    As for the joint, wood glue is fine. But I would screw.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    If it were me I would not do it. This is only instinct on my part, but I suspect a risk that the handle will snap. Totes on planes are designed with the grain going forward so they do not snap.

    I realize this is a different beast, but a fail would happen mid cut and would be dangerous. If I had to do this I would use plywood for the handle.
    Prashun, I'll bet you're a darn good engineer - that's a good catch. I missed it.

    I just checked the grain direction against that of several hand planes that still have original totes. My push stick handle matches their grain direction. But each of the plane totes also attaches to the sole by at least one screw - which in effect reinforces the handle, too. And I'm missing that bit in my design. I agree, plywood would definitely be better.

    Thanks for the double check and your ideas for a fix. I'll mod it now.

    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  13. #13
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    Hopefully you don't have to push so hard while using this tool to be concerned with breaking the handle. My thought would be to throw in a screw or two for insurance, and to wax the inside portions for a nice slippery fit.

  14. #14
    Thanks Pat!
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  15. #15
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    I would add a few screws, I wouldn’t trust glue alone. MDF glues up well but has little inherent strength. A sudden mishap (stuff happens) could cause the mdf and the glued joints to delaminate.

    JMO

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