new motor for table saw

[Bill Carey]

I have an old (25 years) grizzly table saw that I really enjoy working on. Except for the power. It has 1 hp motor. Now I've called Grizzly and they told me the saw can take up to a 2hp motor. If I can find a good used motor what should I look for? I've attached the label from the motor. Thx.
motor label.jpg

[Mike Kees]

Bill your old motor is TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled ) stick with that. The only other factors are shaft diameter,if it is different than the old motor you will need a new pulley. Then rpm needs to be 3450, again the same as your old motor. The last consideration is the mounting base type. I assume this is a contractor saw? Just make sure that it will bolt on to your bracket. Good luck with your search, Mike.

[Bill Carey]

Thx Mike - what I wanted to know.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Bill

I am not an expert here, however several years ago I went through the same modification with a very similar contractor saw. Mine was 2 hp, and I upgraded to a 3 hp. The determining factors were that the weight of the new motor was close to the old, and that it was a similar size and speed. A new pully ensured that the belt lined up. All worked perfectly, and the extra power was great to have. The only issue was, with 3 hp, the motor needed a 15 amp plug.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John McClanahan]

Hi Bill

I am not an expert here, however several years ago I went through the same modification with a very similar contractor saw. Mine was 2 hp, and I upgraded to a 3 hp. The determining factors were that the weight of the new motor was close to the old, and that it was a similar size and speed. A new pully ensured that the belt lined up. All worked perfectly, and the extra power was great to have. The only issue was, with 3 hp, the motor needed a 15 amp plug.


Regards from Perth

Derek

I went the other way. I bought a Powermatic 66 with a 5 hp 3 phase motor. I replaced it with a 1 1/2 hp Baldor wired for 120 volts. It has enough power for me and I don't need a dedicated outlet.


John

[Mike Kees]

Bill I should have added that if you have to run your motor on 120 volt single phase you will need a motor that is dual voltage 120/230 volt or 120 volt only. Most motors in the 1.5 h.p.and up range are usually dual voltage. (You switch leads in the box to switch voltages.) I have most of my shop tools wired on 230 volt unless they are 110 only.

[Bill Dufour]

First step is to figure out the shaft diameter, I would assume metric. easiest would be to get a motor of the same shaft diameter and at least as long. If this is a single belt a new pulley to fit the new motor shaft should not be a big deal.
120 or 240. If upgrading make sure a 240 switch breaks both lines. I think any 2hp motor will be 240 only. Make sure your wiring can handle the amps. And I agree nothing but TEFC in a woodshop.

[Mike Cutler]

Bill

You could actually probably get one from Grizzly. 2 HP, NEMA 56C frame mount if it's a contractor saw. Motor shaft will most likely be the metric equivalent for 5/8" diameter, but be sure to measure it, if you want to keep the same pulley.
The shaft diameter won't really make a difference actually, as the motor sits alone. You would just have to get the correct pulley for it and they're relatively inexpensive. It may be a keyed arbor or a flat arbor. This might cause you to have to change your current pulley.
The most important thing is actually the frame mount. It sets the distance between the motor mount and the pulley on the motor shaft . You need make sure the dimension are the same or you may not be able to align the pulleys.There is a little "wozzle" room, but you need to be within an inch or two to have enough slop in the motor key area, for pulley alignment, and the oblong mounting holes in the frame mount plate.
The Grizzly G2536 would probably be a direct replacement. Grizzly also sells single groove pulleys, so you would just need to match the diameter.

If you could post a picture of the entire motor, especially the frame, next to a ruler. It would be easier to identify what you need.

[lowell holmes]

I would check the yellow pages and find a retail store to buy motors. I have bought them in Houston Texas.

Harbor Freight sell them.

Both my son-in-law and my self have successfully purchased motors. As a matter of fact. I think I have a motor under a work bench that would work.

I would buy new. You do not know what your getting with a used one. It could have been flooded or something. In Galveston County there are a lot of motors that were under water.
Forunately, mine were dry.

[Jim Andrew]

Harbor Freight stocks reasonably priced electric motors. Might even get one on sale. You can use their 20% off coupon as well.

[Bill Carey]

Thanks for all the info. Naturally, the day after I posted about getting a new motor the bearings went out on the arbor. Figures. This saw was made in 1998, (it's a G1022) and I've gotten my moneys worth I suppose. I have no idea how to install new bearings, but the Griz CS told me they were standard automotive bearings that could be had at any auto parts store. But I have no desire to try this - sounds like a pain in the ass (especially since the trunnions are attached to the top not the cabinet - have to pull the top off.) Anyone ever replaced the bearings on a saw? I'm looking at the Grizzly G0833P and may just buy new.

[Frankie Hunt]

I'm looking at the Grizzly G0833P and may just buy new.

Repairing your old saw is pretty easy.
Having said that; it would be a great time to upgrade to a newer saw if that is possible.

The G0833P will have a better fence and better dust collection. It has the nicer solid cast iron wings. It will have a smaller footprint too (no motor hanging off the back) if that is important to you. Its a jump up in quality.

It will be much safer too, with a riving knife kickbacks are MUCH less likely.