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Thread: Sparkies: What's the convention for leaving some wiring slack?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    San Francisco, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Brader View Post
    I may be missing something here, but why wouldn't you just install regular boxes flush with the bottom of the joist and then add a mud ring to add the additional box depth needed for the finished ceiling?

    Scott
    Because I'll probably be dropping the ceiling, not just adding drywall to the bottom of the joists. I'm not yet sure exactly how much I'll lose because I won't be settling on the method for some time - but whether it's framing attached to joists or possibly a paneled/suspended ceiling, it will be a good 2-4" below the existing joists.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Columbus, OH
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    40
    What you are looking to do is commonly referred to as a service loop. In researching wiring techniques I found that many electricians leave a loop between the nearest staple and the j-box during rough-in due to drywallers using rotozip tools and nicking the wiring that is folded into the j-box. Just leave however much you need between the staple and j-box in a neat loop or coil.

  3. #18
    I was on a jobsite once with a fellow installer and the job super watching the electrician coiling about 20' of cable upstream of a ceiling canlight. When he realized all eyes were on him he said over his shoulder, "designer loop."

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
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    3,789
    Quote Originally Posted by Jan Smith View Post
    The make splices you can bury inside the wall if needed.
    I bought a package of those, but haven't had the nerve to try them. They just don't inspire confidence.

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Victor Robinson View Post
    I'm putting a few new ceiling boxes in my unfinished shop/garage. In the near future when I finish the room, I'll be dropping the ceiling by a few inches. What's the preferred way to leave a little extra wire at the J-box so it can be dropped and/or moved in the future (maybe 12-18"). Would you just leave some slack or would you fold up the wire/coil it outside the J-box? I'd like to do a neat job in phase 1 just in case I never get to dropping the ceiling/finishing the room. Thanks.
    When installing lighting in a drop ceiling you can use a whip (hot, neutral, ground in flexible conduit) to go from the box to the fixture. This is typical in office build outs. I've done more of these installations than I care to remember and in practically all the cases we were installing 2x4 troffers. Whips are no more than 6' in length due to code requirements and the gauge was usually one size smaller than the conductor they tied into. They typically come to the jobsite coiled in cardboard drums with 100 or more 16/2 with ground whips and connectors installed.

    You can cut your whips to any length you need. Buy either BX (wires already installed) or 3/8" Greenfield (flexible conduit) and install your own conductors. Make the splice in the box and at the fixture and you're done. If you leave yourself some slack it will be easier to install the fixture.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
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    I believe Julie's comment refers to "whips" that extend from a junction box that remains accessible. If this works for you that is good.

    Another option, would be to use box extenders. I think you said 2" to 4" drop in the ceiling. Generally, the electrical code does not address excessive volume in boxes, just a minimum volume for a given number of conductors.

    I am pretty sure box extenders can be ganged to give additional depth over the standard sizes, like 1.5 inches. If this is true (check it) then just leaving several inches of extra wire in the first box will accommodate what you want to do.

    Think about it. No need to go overboard to accomplish a drop of a couple inches. Four inches or more probably needs a different solution. Seems like 3" or so would be a piece of cake.

    Bill
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Julie Moriarty View Post
    When installing lighting in a drop ceiling you can use a whip (hot, neutral, ground in flexible conduit) to go from the box to the fixture. This is typical in office build outs. I've done more of these installations than I care to remember and in practically all the cases we were installing 2x4 troffers. Whips are no more than 6' in length due to code requirements and the gauge was usually one size smaller than the conductor they tied into. They typically come to the jobsite coiled in cardboard drums with 100 or more 16/2 with ground whips and connectors installed.

    You can cut your whips to any length you need. Buy either BX (wires already installed) or 3/8" Greenfield (flexible conduit) and install your own conductors. Make the splice in the box and at the fixture and you're done. If you leave yourself some slack it will be easier to install the fixture.
    AC, "BX" is not typically sold in big box stores, but MC, Metal Clad is, some consider them the same but they are not as they have their own NEC articles & different installation requirements.

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