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Thread: Opinions on finishing piece

  1. #16
    I wish you the very best with the surgery, John.
    You didn't mention what it's for but I'll keep you in mind tomorrow.

    Hey! I had forgotten that I'm the OP.
    I wouldn't mind off topic input if you care to share. If not, that's ok, too. Get well soon.

    Bill
    Last edited by Bill Jobe; 01-10-2018 at 12:20 PM.

  2. #17
    I want to thank all of you for your suggestions and advice.

    Leo, are you saying that the tung oil you use is not just a wiping varnish like Formby's. From what I've been able to gather Fornby's and Minwax are just wiping varnish that contains heavy metals to speed drying .
    How does PTO differ? From what you've written it sounds like something I'd like to try
    Wood finishing is confusing enough without all the misleading advertising. Minwax ought to be ashamed.

  3. #18
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    Last time I looked Formby's had no tung oil in it!!

  4. #19
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Jobe View Post
    I want to thank all of you for your suggestions and advice.

    Leo, are you saying that the tung oil you use is not just a wiping varnish like Formby's. From what I've been able to gather Fornby's and Minwax are just wiping varnish that contains heavy metals to speed drying .
    How does PTO differ? From what you've written it sounds like something I'd like to try
    Wood finishing is confusing enough without all the misleading advertising. Minwax ought to be ashamed.
    You can get all the info here, the Polymerized Tung Oil is pure Tung oil that has been heated (gets thick through that treatment) and then mineral spirits added to thin it enough to be able to wipe onto the wood.

    http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/pag...at=1,190,42942


    Have fun and take care

  5. #20
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    One more thing, I buy the 1 liter cans, and distribute the oil into 2 re-closable beer bottles, every time I use some of the PTO (Polymerized Tung Oil) I will add water to the bottle to get the oil right to the top and so eliminate the air contact with the PTO, the cloth that I use to spread the PTO on the bowl, is either burned right away or if a small one, spread out onto the concrete floor to make it safe.

    Two pictures here, first the closure on the Beer bottle, and the second picture showing the water in the lower part of the bottle with the PTO on top of the water, I have kept the PTO imperfect state for a couple of years this way.

    re-closable bottle.jpg water and PTO in bottle.jpg


    Have fun and take care

  6. #21
    Thank you for the information, Leo.
    This form of tung oil would be food safe much sooner, i'm guessing?

  7. #22
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    Last time I looked Formby,s tung oil finish had zero tung oil in it???

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by robert baccus View Post
    Last time I looked Formby,s tung oil finish had zero tung oil in it???
    I'm equally frustrated with Minwax for its false claims,Robert.
    How do they get away with it. If one company can make such claims that do not reflect reallity, we have to assume that all companies are getting away with "fake news", even those who provide our food.
    Tunge oil finish is a hazardous product. They should be held responsible to the public regarding its contents.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Jobe View Post
    I'm equally frustrated with Minwax for its false claims,Robert.
    How do they get away with it. If one company can make such claims that do not reflect reallity, we have to assume that all companies are getting away with "fake news", even those who provide our food.
    Tunge oil finish is a hazardous product. They should be held responsible to the public regarding its contents.
    Yes Bill, that’s why they use the word FINISH behind there OIL, as they say this FINISH will make it look like a real (whatever oil) finish you get when using it, and of course who do you believe.

    Go and look at the MSDS sheets to find what’s in it, likely 70% or more volatiles and then varnish maybe or something else, not oils that polymerize and harden up, would be to costly and everyone likes low prices, even when the product doesn’t deliver the promised finish.


    Have fun and take care

  10. #25
    I sanded the piece with 220, then 320 using soap and water and an orbital sander. The scratches were gone. I must conclude that the scratches were just in the finish and not the wood.
    After letting it fully dry I applied Minwax Wipeon Poly using it to wet sand with 320 grit.
    After 10 or 15 minutes I wiped it dry. The next day I wet sanded very lightly with 600 grit and the poly. I wiped it dry and today I used an orbital buffer to polish it. The color is deeper and flawlessly smooth with no scratches.
    I use only high gloss because I read that you can create any level of shine by how you buff it.
    My finish is low in luster, but really brings out the figuring on this piece of walnut.
    Would you recommend a wax for a greater shine or another wet-sanded coat followed by a buffing or polishing compound?

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