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Thread: MFT table top type of work - custom

  1. #1

    MFT table top type of work - custom

    Hello Forum,
    Is there anybody who would be able to CNC a table top (Baltic Birch) with 20mm bench dog holes (like MFT top)? Anybody who has gone this route? Any reputable CNC services company in MA? The table top should be 2x5. Thanks

  2. #2
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    It's easy to make a jig to make these tops accurately yourself with a router. Watch Timothy Wilmot's bench video on YouTube...a simple tee-square with 30mm holes spaced at 96mm increments down the centerline for a 30mm guide bushing and the "tee" being the exact width to put the centerline from the previous row exactly 96mm over for the next row. You set it up to start 77mm from the corner in both directions. A 20mm router bit is relatively inexpensive, too.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    For a one off you might find someone reasonable at: https://100kgarages.com/ Anyone with a CNC can cut that if you give them a DXF file. The trick is finding someone willing to do it near you. It would be about 10-30min of machine time depending on what machine they have so there is not a lot of money in it for them.

  4. #4
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    There are a few jigs out there that help you drill or rout those holes. I thought Woodpeckers had one but I couldn't find it on their site. Lee Valley has one of their own and also carries one called the Parf System.

    If you want one CNC'd, the only recommendation I can make is in CT - Parkerville Wood Products near Hartford.

    Good luck.


  5. #5
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    Another fairly low cost jig is by Woodrave. I bought one to make several Christmas presents. Worked very well.

    no affiliation with them, just a customer.

    http://woodrave.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html

  6. #6
    I will also report favorable results for the Woodrave jig. I did not expect the holes to be square enough to use for a squaring jig but they are. I used HD pegboard that didn't seem all that accurate. I think the secret if the pegboard has inaccuracies but over the 8 feet length, not the shorter lengths I am typically measuring and building. I don't have an 8 foot square. All my squares say the holes are square.

  7. #7
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    I'd buy a MFT top from festool and use it as a template to route out the holes with a 20mm router bit. Then use 20mm parf dogs to index the top to the next set of holes.

  8. #8
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    Word of warning, CNC machines can be "out of square", especially the bolt together ones. I have an older ShopBot and it's out maybe 1/16" in 4'. Not enough to matter for what I use it for so I haven't gotten around to squaring it up. Just don't assume that because it's drilled on a CNC that the rows and columns of holes are square to each other, especially if somebody with a hobby level machine does the job for you.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian W Evans View Post
    There are a few jigs out there that help you drill or rout those holes. I thought Woodpeckers had one but I couldn't find it on their site.
    Good luck.
    The woodpeckers kit was a "one time tool" offering.

    https://www.woodpeck.com/hole-boring-jig.html
    Frankie

    I have a great Border Collie, she just can't hold her licker!

  10. #10
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    Laura, thanks for raising this topic. I want to do a similar project.

    To Frank and Brian, the Woodpeckers one-time-tool deadline passed in November; deliveries to commence in February. Made me think, "no harm in asking...". I just visited the link above (works dandy), called them, and placed an order.

    I'm a happy camper.

    BobV
    Last edited by Bob Vallaster; 01-04-2018 at 2:56 PM. Reason: typos

  11. #11
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    I would suggest going over to the FOG Festool site and do a search. There is a lengthy discussion on how to do it your self with CNC accuracy. Peter Parniff from the UK along with Axminster Tools offer a set up that has gotten great reviews.

    I went the CNC route and had a fellow I knew make my top. It took a few times for him to get it to my specs. A lot of time and money. If you go the CNC route find a reputable person and find out who pays for the mistakes. Also there will most likely be a setup and a charge for doing the programming. Some things you may have not thought of

    take care
    sometimes it's people who no one imagines anything of who do the things that no one imagines. Alan Turing

  12. #12
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    Another thing about CNC is the operator might be tempted to use a smaller bit and "cut out a circle" rather than "drill a hole" if they don't already have a 20mm bit. Unless the machine and bit are very stiff you're going to end up with a tapered hole. I tried this on my CNC table and had to go back with a drill bit and chase all of them. I bought a full size bit for the next time I do it, once I get everything squared up.

    Programming charges for this project should be minimal. I could set up the file in about five minutes from opening the program to ready to cut.

  13. #13
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    Of all the methods, the UJK Parf guide (that Lee Valley as well as TSO Products sell in the US) is probably the best combination of accuracy and price. It costs about as much as having one top made by a competent CNC operator, but you'll be able to make as many tops as you need. It's also the most labor-intensive since you're drilling (not even routing) each hole yourself.

    The Woodrave jig is fine (I have it also) but you're dependent on the quality of the pegboard you source so if you're looking for absolute accuracy you might be disappointed.

  14. #14
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    I made a big MFT style table, 3'x6' and use it as an assembly table and outfeed table. Works great and love it. I'm lucky enough where the company I work for has a 20' CNC router and I was able to throw an entire sheet of MDF on it to have it cut.

    If you do find a company to CNC the top for you, I would suggest having more than one cut and just saving it for later. This will increase the amount of machining time as well as cost, but would also entice the company to take on the job and save you money down the road when it comes time to replace. I use my table to make cuts with using my TS55 track saw so there's a lot of cut lines in it. Over time, stains, paints and glue gets on it as well and will need replacing.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    It's easy to make a jig to make these tops accurately yourself with a router. Watch Timothy Wilmot's bench video on YouTube...a simple tee-square with 30mm holes spaced at 96mm increments down the centerline for a 30mm guide bushing and the "tee" being the exact width to put the centerline from the previous row exactly 96mm over for the next row. You set it up to start 77mm from the corner in both directions. A 20mm router bit is relatively inexpensive, too.
    I just watched the video. INCREDIBLE! What an ingenious design! And what a shop! Holy Moly!
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