Unisaw Custom Mobile "Off Road" Base

[Jeff Sladick]

Would love some feedback and thoughts on a mobile base I am building. I am adding an extension and Bench Dog Router Extension to the saw. Being in SoCal, I like to do a lot of my work in my driveway where there is more room, but due to some rough transitions, I needed a base with a bit more ground clearance. I have 4 total-locking 5x2 casters and am using 1x3 16ga steel for the main frame. The cabinet will be independent of the table saw. I was planning to use two uprights to support the long extension but am not sure about the best way to go about this. I am concerned with flexing of the rolling base and the impact on the table flexing out of level. Here is a link to the online Imagur album with more photos. https://imgur.com/a/eirmc

[Jim Becker]

You'll want to take into consideration work surface height. They way you have things drawn at present, you'll be raising that saw and surface quite a bit because of the need to use larger wheels to accomodate movement over rougher surfaces. You can get around that by having the saw sit down between the lateral rails so it's physically as close to the floor as is appropriate for your comfortable operating height. Obviously, the platform for the saw base will need to be constructed such that it properly transfers weight to the lateral rails.

[Jeff Sladick]

Thanks for the feedback Jim!



I built the frame as you mentioned so that the saw sits within the rails. Added height is almost 2in;, giving me a table height of 37in;. I am 6 feet; so it does not feel too high at this point. I am concerned with properly supporting the BenchDog cast iron router table at the end. Right now from left to right I have a 10in Cast Iron Wing, 20in Tabel Saw Top, 10in Cast Iron Wing, (planned) 20in Torsion Box Extension, then the 16in BenchDog Cast Iron RT top (60 lbs.). I have 3 inch piece of structural aluminum angle that I will be using on the back of the saw to mimmick the Unifence rail on the front to help support the extension table and RT Extension, but figure I still need a couple of legs. I guess my real concern is do I need to make them adjustable to factor in base flex and such being that I will not always be positioning the saw on level ground and the base will probably flex?

[Jim Becker]

Flex can be an issue because things will not stay flat/co-planer. It can also cause fasteners that you hook everything together to potentially loosen. I know how heavy the BenchDog setup is because I have one mounted to my slider as a "poor man's shaper". Since it "becomes one" with the saw under normal circumstances, I'd sure want things setup so that it maintains the exact height and stays co-planer with the saw table. You absolutely need legs down to the base to carry all the weight to the right of the saw tables...the front and back rails are just not enough, IMHO. You may also need some additional cross bracing to alleviate flexing.

Honestly, I'd suggest trying to locate the machine in (a) specific spot(s) if at all possible so that you can keep things lined up correctly during use. A flat spot will be your friend because I assure you cast iron bends and flexes. I have to very carefully adjust my 900 lb Stubby lathe if I move it to keep the centers, um...centered...because even those heavy castings bend ever-so-slightly. A saw isn't quite as sensitive, but...

[Dick Mahany]

Nice mobile base. I had the Delta mobile base with the extension to support the 52" Bies table. I moved my saw regularly (as in every time I used it) and always had to fight with the flex even though I had full support on the far right side of the table. Adjustable legs on the supports helped, but the weakest point seemed to be just to the right of the saw cabinet itself and the weight actually caused the single Delta retractable caster to bend over time.

I doubt yours will do that, however possibly adding a 3rd front-to-rear cross member in the middle of your span would be of help now just in case you ever needed to add a little more support. I would definitely make the uprights for the far right table support adjustable. (It's a nice saw and I regret having parted with mine when I down sized)

[Peter Christensen]

I would make another frame as you have plus a cross member between the cabinet and saw and weld 4 to 6" vertical members between them at intervals so the end result would look a bit like a bridge. You would loose some cabinet height but it would be more than strong enough to stop any flex.

[Rick Potter]

I would consider two options. Instead of trying to build a base that will not flex, which has it's own problems on uneven ground (one wheel unsupported), consider trying to find the most level spot you have, and marking it so the saw will always be placed there when in use. I used to have a spot outside where I knew if I laid a piece of 1/4" ply under one wheel, it worked fine.

OR....redo a spot in the driveway with a new 4x8 level slab. Actually, it doesn't even have to be level, flat will do it.

Not exactly what you were asking, but hopefully of help.

Rick P
Upland

[Cary Falk]

I made a base very similar to yours. I don't think the bars that hold the wheels have enough support. I can take a picture if you want to see. I started out like yours and then ended up beefing it up quite a bit. You might think about 3 wheels instead of 4 if you want to have it not rock when on an uneven driveway.

[Jeff Sladick]

Thanks to all of you for the great feedback. I believe at this time I will just live with the flex and add some adjustable support. I am a few years away from repooring my driveway and getting something that is flatter.

I believe I will add a couple of adjustable furniture glides and threaded inserts to a couple of 1in 16ga uprights that will allow me to adjust for support to level the table. Each of the extensions will also be attached to each other and the front fence rail and rear piece of aluminum angle.

[Jeff Sladick]

I have been using the base quite a bit so far. The larger casters with a total lock have been working out great. I am finishing up the cabinet and soon will add the extension table and router wing. That will be the real test.

I have noticed that after rolling out my saw I generally place it in the same spot. I like the idea of marking a wheel placement and seeing if the table will always be level in that place even with rolling it in and out of the garage, which is a bumpy endeavor.

[Greg Hines, MD]

That is a great looking set up. I think what several other posters have suggested is to decide where on your driveway it seems to work best, and then mark the concrete so you always return it to the same place. Tape, spray paint, etc.

Doc

[Tom Trees]

I dont like the idea of a saw, especially a tablesaw on casters in use.Have you seen Jimmy Direstas bandsaw base design....that idea with adjustable feet could be incorporated into your base.I have seen a similar design you can buy but I cant find it.Most designs use the levers for the casters, but you can do it the other way round either.Tom

[Jeff Sladick]

That is a great looking set up. I think what several other posters have suggested is to decide where on your driveway it seems to work best, and then mark the concrete so you always return it to the same place. Tape, spray paint, etc.

Doc

I think that is my best option at this point. I plan to try it and measure the table each time to see if I get consistent results. Issue I might have is small movements in the alignment just from rolling over a rough surface to get to the destination.

[Jeff Sladick]

I dont like the idea of a saw, especially a tablesaw on casters in use.Have you seen Jimmy Direstas bandsaw base design....that idea with adjustable feet could be incorporated into your base.I have seen a similar design you can buy but I cant find it.Most designs use the levers for the casters, but you can do it the other way round either.Tom

I had not seen that before. Watched the build on Youtube. Pretty creative. I like the 3-point leg system so it is always solid. Not sure a system like that would work with how big my final setup will be.

I have found with the base as I have it, if I lock in one side of the wheels, then rotate the saw before locking in the other side (all 3 locked from moving and swivel) that it is extremely stable. I was ripping some 10' long, 2" thick old growth red oak the other day and the table wsa as stable as could be.

One thing I would be interested to try is the Jimmy Diresta's system where the casters are attached to the lever system and the legs are fixed. If engineered right, the casters could lift off the ground quite a bit when not being moved. Perhaps if I find an issue with my system I will take a second swing at building it that way.

[Tom Trees]

I dont think there would any point of redesigning it,as it looks solid and its not that high off the ground to work, I think.
Basically made a kind of thing you describe, as I was afraid the levers on the bandsaw design were too clumsy.
There's one of the set of casters, inside the tablesaw cabinet...
I made that axle too close to the middle of the base, and it kinda tips a bit when rolling, so you have to fight it a bit, as the wheels have to swivel back into motion again,
Considered altering it, but I dont move the saw enough to bother with that.
I could get away with the clearance too, without bottoming out on the dust chute, thats the niggling part,
I had not fully designed the thing though at the time of welding the axle mounts.


Look up Carl Holmgren too, he has a few interesting designs in wood, I also got some inspiration for the tablesaw kickswitch too.

I have also seen the same lever design on the bandsaw, but employed for the adjustable feet instead
Unfortunately, I cant seem to find it though ...

I have heard folks using pallet planks and a crowbar to set down their machines, I would consider doing so, as its rare you will need to move it....
maybe thats my case for the not wanting the fight of moving it.

Maybe some inspiration for you?
Good luck Jeff SAM_1821.JPGSAM_1824.jpgSAM_1914.JPGSAM_0944.JPG