Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 20

Thread: Freud Dial-a-Width Dado questions

  1. #1

    Freud Dial-a-Width Dado questions

    I just got a Freud Dial a Width dado (SD608), and am confused about the chipper sizes. The printed manual refers to 1/16" and 1/8" chippers. A more modern sizing chart (included in the box) refers to 3/32" and 1/8" chippers. However, the chippers that come in the box measure 5/32" and 9/32". Can anyone clear up these inconsistent measurements? I will call Freud for answers but they won't be open for another two days and I was hoping to use it today.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    I figured it out. The size refers to the width of the plate that the chipper teeth are welded to, not to the size of the chipper teeth. Go figure. It would be nice if that were mentioned somewhere in the instructions

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,850
    I agree that documenting that more clearly would be nice...and thank you for bringing it up as I'm considering buying one of those puppies.

    That said, it somewhat makes sense to be that way since the teeth are going to overlap and the sizing is getting adjusted "at the arbor" which is where plate thickness is more meaningful.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    4,521
    Blog Entries
    11
    The Dial-a-Width sure beats shims, IMO. Love mine.
    NOW you tell me...

  5. #5
    Jim, I highly recommend this dado set. After I got it set up and made a new throat plate for my table saw, I ran 1/2" x 1/2" dados in hard maple in one pass. They were the most perfect cuts I've seen from my PM 66. No burns, no marks, no tear out, and the fit was perfect on the first try. The fit was calculated using digital calipers and knowing that each click of the adjustment wheel increases or decreases the cut width by four thousands of an inch. Important facts to know, also not mentioned in the instructions but uncovered by researching this set on this forum, is that the arbor length on your saw will limit how wide the dado can be set, and that there is no need to use the blade retainer with a dado set. When I first put the set on the arbor, and then the PM66 blade retaining ring, there was no room for the arbor nut. Once I learned the retainer was not needed, there was plenty of room, although I did not check to see what the maximum width would be. The set is very high quality and comes with an excellent storage container.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,850
    Thanks for the encouragement, Len and Ole. When I bought my slider, I sold my Forrest Dado King, choosing to use other methods for dados, grooves and rabbits. Lately, I've been rethinking that as there are some situations where the saw based setup is more suitable. (some of the honey bee hive box operations would be faster/safer, for example, as would long "rip-oriented" grooves and rabbits) My MiniMax slider is dado compatible so I just need to manufacture a new throat plate for that purpose (I'm not going to pay $350+ for the OEM aluminum one...) and then move forward with the purchase. The Dial-a-Width setup is very appealing for obvious reasons.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Jim,
    I have the 608 as well. I've used it for about 4 years and it still cuts bang on dados, even for wacko sized plywood. Setup is really easy. I use an Infinity throat plate form my Sawstop ICS. It allows for customizable inserts. I've made them for any width I've needed, so changing takes only a few seconds.
    Regards,
    Tom

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,850
    Good to hear, Thomas. Making an alternative plate for my S315WS is a little more involved than it would be for a cabinet saw, but it's just a task that takes a little thought. The reason for this is that the side toward the cast iron table is thinner in structure than the side toward the slider wagon. So I'll have to manufacture a piece of material that's about 20" long that is variable thickness. I'm thinking lamination is my friend for that and the thicknesses have to be spot on exact because there's no easy adjustability and the long, thin plate screws down to the structure. It's also unsupported on the slider wagon side. (hence, the greater thickness, even in the OEM aluminum)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    153
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas L. Miller View Post
    Jim,
    I have the 608 as well. Sawstop ICS.
    Tom I spoke to Sawstop and they don't recommend the 608 as its too heavy to be stopped in time to prevent injury. They also mentioned that if the brake fires the extra weight might damage the arbor. I had a 508 set and it was brilliant, lovely clean cuts but once again not recommended. I ended up selling it and buying one (Dewalt DW7670) of their endorsed sets after they sent me a list. Not as good but adequate. Interestingly, Freud have modified their 208 to the 208S to be Sawstop compatible. I know you could use the set in bypass mode but that defeats the reason for having a Sawstop in the first place. Sorry for bringing this up but it needed to be said.

    John

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    columbia, sc
    Posts
    810
    I do not have a sawstop but I do have a question for those that do.

    must you use the dado cartridge when cutting dados or can you disable the flesh sensor on the normal cartridge when cutting dados?
    Bob C

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    153
    Yes to both but why would you want to disable the safety mechanism. It is, however, worthwhile cutting "wet" wood or metal or anything conductive.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    columbia, sc
    Posts
    810
    I seldom cut dados on the tablesaw so if I could avoid buying the dado cartridge for those occasional cuts I would
    Bob C

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cooper View Post
    I do not have a sawstop but I do have a question for those that do.

    must you use the dado cartridge when cutting dados or can you disable the flesh sensor on the normal cartridge when cutting dados?
    You have to switch to a dado cartridge because it won’t run if the gap between cartridge and blade is too big even in bypass mode. I tried it once.

    I think there is a work around but you need to attach a wire that has to be set close to the dado blades. By the time you futz with all that it’s easier to change the cartridge. They aren’t all that expensive. Your wife probably spends close to twice that when she gets her hair cut and colored.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    4,521
    Blog Entries
    11
    It would seem to me that with the blade buried in the wood, and the fairly shallow cut, usually 3/8", it would be much more difficult to set yourself up for injury using a dado blade than a standard blade. Yes injury is possible, just much less likely. Yea, they are a little scary with all of those blades whirling around there without your over blade guard. Am I wrong?
    NOW you tell me...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,850
    Ole, a lot of accidents with dado blades are because of the force they exert on the workpiece...especially when folks attempt to "hog it out", rather than take lighter cuts like you mention.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •