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Thread: Butt joints for base cabinets, no glue

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,875
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Murdoch View Post
    Typically the bottoms are set flush to the sides as the boxes will then be installed on a full length base. (That's another thread.)
    As an aside, that's the method I prefer...separate base that can be completely leveled (easily) before putting the cabinet boxes on them. And you don't have to cut out that darn toe-kick notch on the cabinet sides. (other than an end-cap trim piece) Every component is rectangular.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    2,203
    Add to that, a separate plywood base can be secured to the floor with L brackets or glue blocks when installing a peninsula or an island. Not sure how you'd accomplish this with plastic legs.

    Biscuits or Dominoes and glue here but I'm only building cabinetry for my own home anymore.

  3. #18
    I installed a Kraft Made kitchen in our house this year. We paid extra for plywood boxes but backs are still veneered mdf. Joints are glued butt joints with no fasteners showing. Maple face frame is pocket screwed together. Drawers are dovetailed maple. To install the cooktop I had to remove most of the top of it's base cabinets. The granite guys knocked all the bracing out of the sink cabinet to get the sink in. It was a 30 inch cooktop in a 30 inch base cabinet and a 36 inch sink in a 36 inch cabinet. I cut the parts out but the granite guys just hit things with a hammer. It worked but would not have if I had made the cabinets. I am OK with the kitchen but feel like I paid a lot for what I got.

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