Mortiser or Router?

[Stan Calow]

I have a Delta bench top mortiser. My mortises never look as good as the ones on TV and in magazines. It is slow and tedious to set up and clamp properly and squarely for each plunge. I just finished cutting a bunch for a project and am thinking that the best thing to do is use a router (with straight pattern bit) after the mortiser to clean up the mortises.

I'm always disappointed to find that home shop tools like my mortiser are designed without thought to clamping surfaces and with poor fences.

[Jim Becker]

I sold my bench top mortiser about a year ago to another local woodworker...I hadn't used it in years. But that doesn't mean I'm not interested in using mortise and tenon joinery when it's appropriate. My solution for going forward was already mentioned. I recently bought a Domino 700XL to "do the deed". I like so-called "loose tenon" joinery because it greatly simplifies cutting the workpiece components and the Domino is very well suited to that. And as another person mentioned, bringing the tool to the work is quite often a lot more convenient than bringing a workpiece to a machine, especially when it's something larger and heavier.

It's good that there are many choices. My J/P has the ability to use a mortising attachment, but I never bought it and since it hangs off the back of my particular machine, it wouldn't be practical in my shop due to space constraints. I occasionally cut them by hand, usually by pre-drilling with a forstner bit and then cleaning things up. I've used a router a few times, but I'm not fond of balancing a router and jig on the edge of a piece of material, personally. I briefly had the drill press attachment...which is pretty much the equivalent of the bench top mortiser, excepting the DP had to be re-configured anytime it was needed. It cut about as well as the bench top machine, in my experience. There are other methods/machines, too, but I haven't used them.

[jack duren]

Prefer the mortiser over the Domino or router...

[Ron Citerone]

I have a jet mortiser. At first I didn't like it, until I learned to sharpen the chisels properly..............that takes some research and practice and is worth the time if you intend to mae a lot of M&T's.............other wise I would do the router thing.

[Robert Cherry]

Over the years I've cut mortises by hand, with a hollow chisel mortiser, with a router and home made mortising block, with a Domino, with a multi-router and most recently with the Leigh FMT.

Overall I like the multi-router the best, but it is very expensive and hard to find used. The Leigh FMT is a decent affordable alternative and is my current preferred way to cut mortises. If you are going to make only mortises that are parallel to the edges of the work piece, a simple home made mortising block (Like the Jeff Miller design from FWW a few years back) and a plunge router will work perfectly and is easy to make.

[Wayne Lomman]

Julie, I have used chain, chisel and oscillating mortisers as well as done them with a router. The chain and oscillating mortisers were for production chairmaking and were repeatably accurate. Since then I have used a chisel mortiser for low volume work and a router and jigs for funny angles or site work.

In the workshop I recommend using the chisel mortiser. Don't be too concerned about the slightly ratty interior. Getting your chisel set up parallel to the fence helps with this, plus you need to clean out corners with a good sharp chisel. Provided your tenon fits firmly it works fine.

However, there are times when a router is easier, say with a heavy timber or an odd angle. In the end it is your preference but whichever you choose, you are not sacrificing structural integrity. If you want to see untidy, knock apart an antique chair. They were pretty rough. Cheers

[Darcy Warner]

Chain mortiser, then a big old hollow chisel, then a maka. Sold my domino.

[Jim Becker]

BTW, with the hollow chisel mortiser, it's not just about having the chisels sharp. They are only there to "clean up" and square the cut. The drill bit in the center is supposed to do the majority of the work and therefore, it must be slightly protruding from the chisel so the chisel follows it into the material. A lot of folks don't leave the drill bit "long enough" and suffer the consequences.

[Marshall Harrison]

A lot of good advice has been given. David has a good point about the Domino I once owed a Felder FD 250. I didn’t use it that much because I found that bringing the work to the machine is harder that bringing the machine to the work. I built and still do build a lot of doors and I find it’s easier to bring the Domino to the work. Easier to set up and fast. Mortisers are slow unless you plan to spend a bunch of money. I believe most fellows who own a Domino will agree they work well and if you thinking of using a router buy a good one and put some thought into how you will approach your technique. I use a Festool 1400 with two fences for large mortises or a Festool MFS set up. Again in my opinion it’s easier to bring the tool to the work especially if you are doing this as a hobby

Can the Domino wood plugs be used in holes created with a router? Or is it too much trouble?

I like the concept but spending the money for the Domino is out of the question at the moment.

[George Bokros]

Can the Domino wood plugs be used in holes created with a router? Or is it too much trouble?

I like the concept but spending the money for the Domino is out of the question at the moment.

You can use dominos in mortises cut with a router but you will need a metric sized bit since dominos are metric. Also dominos are expensive.

See the thread I started Dec 18th - link here http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.p...hlight=http://

[Marshall Harrison]

You can use dominos in mortises cut with a router but you will need a metric sized bit since dominos are metric. Also dominos are expensive.

See the thread I started Dec 18th - link here http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.p...hlight=http://

Thanks for the link George.

My wife is adverse to me spending any money on tools until I prove myself at this new woodworking venture. I understand her logic and its not a battle I feel like fighting. I have a keen interest in Craftsman/Arts & Craft/Mission style furniture so I'm thinking the best move I can make is learn to do it the old fashioned way. My volume will be low so no big need to mass produce projects in a a hurry.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

BTW, with the hollow chisel mortiser, it's not just about having the chisels sharp. They are only there to "clean up" and square the cut. The drill bit in the center is supposed to do the majority of the work and therefore, it must be slightly protruding from the chisel so the chisel follows it into the material. A lot of folks don't leave the drill bit "long enough" and suffer the consequences.

I agree Jim. With a hollow chisel mortiser, it's about sharpness and alignment. I also sharpen and hone the cutting edges on the bit.

[Jim Morgan]

I agree Jim. With a hollow chisel mortiser, it's about sharpness and alignment. I also sharpen and hone the cutting edges on the bit.

It's also a good idea to polish the flutes of the bit and the interior of the hollow chisel so that chips will flow up and out of the opening in the chisel. A buffing wheel charged with green compound does a good job on the flutes. For the interior of the chisel, use an appropriately sized dowel with green compound rubbed on and chucked into a drill press at LOW speed.

[Jim Morgan]

Sorry, unintended double post.

[David Utterback]

Recently exceeded the capacity of my bench top mortise machine with boards wider than 5". Switched to the drill press and bench chisels to cut the mortises in stiles for 2 exterior doors. They are about 3" deep. For some unknown reason, I have not tried to use a router. I guess I also fear trying to balance it on the narrow surface.