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Thread: Fritz und Franz Jig complete

  1. #1

    Fritz und Franz Jig complete

    All, just finished my Fritz und Franz jig last night. Works like charm really opening up the possibilities with the slider.

    any comments or suggestions? Handle is gnarly, i know, what a quick and dirty, but works great and free from scraps.

    Nancy
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Nancy, that's a great looking implementation of the F&F jig! My only concern is that the pusher side doesn't have a scale for setting the stop. While you can easily set it by butting it next to the other one, that might be inconvenient in the middle of processing lumber where multiple widths are a factor.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Very nice! I'm iterating on the one I built, and seeing how others have done it is giving me some good ideas for next time. For instance, my stop blocks are narrow, which I've found leads to some deflection if I'm not careful not to "push" on them, while yours seem wide enough to avoid that.

    Maybe add some adhesive-backed sandpaper along the edges for grip?

  4. #4
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    What gnarly? None that I can see and you will have to do gnarly better than that if you want it noticed. Looks like it will work.
    David

  5. #5
    Also made a steel bar to fit into the t-slot and attached to a woodpeckers hold down. Works great. Has anyone else done this? The factory clamps for >$200 doesn’t seem worth it.
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Nancy Strevelowski View Post
    Also made a steel bar to fit into the t-slot and attached to a woodpeckers hold down. Works great. Has anyone else done this? The factory clamps for >$200 doesn’t seem worth it.
    I've rarely felt the need for a clamp....using the F&F jig, there's really no need to provide much downward pressure.

    That said, look at the first post in this thread for some similar ideas:
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-last-6-months

  7. #7
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    Sand paper or some type of friction materials along the clamping edge really helps the grip IMHO.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nancy Strevelowski View Post
    Also made a steel bar to fit into the t-slot and attached to a woodpeckers hold down. Works great. Has anyone else done this? The factory clamps for >$200 doesn’t seem worth it.
    You'll find that handy to have...while it's true that many cuts don't require clamping, there are also many times where it can be an advantage to cut quality or required for safety. I was fortunate to get two cam clamps with my slider, but if I hadn't, I would have made something up. There are other instances where the threaded insert you made will come in handy beyond just the clamp, too.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    yeah, i made two, thinking into the future since i had all the metal working stuff out.

  10. #10
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    Maybe a little dense here, but....

    1: What keeps the (I assume,) stationary front half from sliding?

    2: Why do you need the second stop on the pusher side? Won't the stop on the stationary side be enough?

    Thanks for the post, I am finally getting my new Griz 623 slider put together after being sickly for more than a month, and this is on my list.

    Rick P
    Last edited by Rick Potter; 12-29-2017 at 3:15 AM.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  11. #11
    Rick,

    1) The front half usually is butted up against the back of the crosscut fence

    2) Imagine trying to cut a very narrow strip. The "butt" ends touch the jig surfaces, but aren't enough surface area to guarantee it registers squarely. See this picture for an example.

  12. #12
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    Also, the two stops work together, Rick...for example, a big use of the F&F is for parallel ripping at consistent width with the material clamped on the slider's wagon. You get an extraordinary clean, glue ready cut (if the lumber is flat). The two corresponding stops also serve to lock in small pieces for safe cutting. .
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    Rick,

    1) The front half usually is butted up against the back of the crosscut fence

    2) Imagine trying to cut a very narrow strip. The "butt" ends touch the jig surfaces, but aren't enough surface area to guarantee it registers squarely. See this picture for an example.
    Thanx for sharing the pic Dan, that's my setup I posted the to FOG a couple of years ago. F&F is definitely one of the best additions to any slider. Parallel guides are another indispensable setup in my world.

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Still new to a slider, I pinch myself everytime i use it. Combined with a FF jig, i can cut the tiniest of pieces of wood with my hands and body nowhere near the blade. Truley a game changer for me.
    A lot of heated “Sawstop” debates here could always be silenced by a slider and FF jig setup if guys only knew.

    Happy New Year

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Sincerbeaux View Post
    A lot of heated “Sawstop” debates here could always be silenced by a slider and FF jig setup if guys only knew.
    Happy New Year
    Check out the new Griggio "safe saw" - sawstop meets slider! Sawstop electronics and drop away blade but no brake, so blade is undamaged.
    Don't know if it is available here in the states yet, but it may be a "game changer"

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HmMKyZlcMM


    Mike
    Last edited by mike holden; 12-29-2017 at 11:19 AM. Reason: added youtube reference
    From the workshop under the staircase, Clinton Township, MI
    Semper Audere!

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