[OP]
Contributor
This works really well on Mahogany. After milling I hit it with 320 and see what that left, grab 60 to clean that up then back to 320 for final. Sometimes the 320 sander barely stops before I have it in hand again.
I agree that for harder woods intermediate grits are needed. Wait, let me test that...
No, 60 to 320 works perfectly on White Oak and on Sugar Maple. You must be using worn out paper or something.
Member
I don't have anything coarser than 80 grit. I've tried skipping grits from 80 to 180 and can't get the scratch pattern out, on any wood, without stupid amounts of time and burning up good 180 pads. 60 to 320 seems a pipe dream.Originally Posted by Tom Bender
Put some dark stain and two coats of high gloss and post a pic. Then I'll be a believer.
-Lud
Member
I use H&L and simply step up. Usually after using 80/100 on the wide belt, I use 120/150/180/220 (on the 3mm orbit ROS) sometimes 320 or higher depending on finish. It typically takes little time to change and provides good and fast results (removing scratch and swirl). Obviously there are lots of variables. But 60 to 320 in one step?. I am skeptical that I could get a swirl free finish (no doubt my inferior equipment) but more power to you!
"the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius
[OP]
Contributor
If I had to sand 5 times I'd give up woodwork. Maybe the disconnect we're having here is in the finish. Here's what I've been using for a few years.
Light woods
No stain, usually just polyurethane (utility wood for utility work)
Purpleheart, Ebony,
No finish.
Mahogany
Wipe onto bare wood a coat of dark oil based stain, wipe off. Dry overnight or two.
If any grain is raised, crocus cloth.
Second coat just in case but usually makes no difference.
Two coats of 1 pound clear shellac.
Crocus cloth to take the shine off.
Done!
Member
I think Mr. Bender is just having fun with us.
Dark stain on mahogany is a good one also.
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