Supernova 2 jaws

[Sam Beagle]

I have a few chucks. But always seem to use this one w the same jaws. I wanna get more into using the correct jaws and all. I see a lot of videos where guys have these black jaws and seem deep and large.
I know there are a lot of brands. But for the SN2, what’s the best all around jaws to use for bowl work.

[John Grace]

Really depends on the size of the piece. The standard 50mm will easily support small bowls and up to 10"...though it's always preferred to use your tailstock as added support until it gets in the way. If I'm turning materials bigger than 10", however, I'll prefer my 100mm jaws. In fact...I'll use the 100mm on large to small pieces until the size of the jaws inhibits how I want to finish the bottom. Saves me from swapping them out.

[Tom Wilson66]

I have several other jaws for the Nova chucks, but the one I use for bowls the most is the No. 2 jaws that came with the chuck. This will easily hold all the bowls I could get on my 12" lathe. The long and deep jaws would be more for hollow forms and vases, which are long and require a deeper hold due to the leverage.

[Len Mullin]

How many chucks do each of you own, I own five. A chuck for each type of jaws I own, I hate to stop turning to exchange jaws. I own the One-Way Talon chucks, the first one was a gift so I just kept buying that brand. Plus, owning more then one chuck, means you can use two with the same type of jaws if need be. So if I'm not done with the 50mm jaws on one turning, I don't have to take that piece out of the chuck losing my registration. I can just grab another chuck, and install another set of 50mm jaws and use it. After I'm done with it, I reinstall the jaws that were meant for that chuck.

Len

[Bill Blasic]

My favorite for bowls are the Nova 75mm/3" bowl jaws for bowls around 14 or so inches. If you want to do big bowls the new Titan III (Which is a bring back of the original Titan) with either/or the 5.75"/146mm jaws or the 6.5"/165mm new jaws for the Titan III (these are the three holed jaws made strictly for the Titan III with the three holed slides).

[Michael Mills]

The link below gives the sizes for Nova jaws. Note that some are very similar for some holdings.
My go to are the 70mm jaws for many items. The 75mm are also good AFAIK but note that the tenon/spigot size is almost the same as the 50mm which you already have.
In the larger I use the Powergrips. They are almost the same size as the 100mm bowl but very deep for holding long/deep items such as a vase. They are not much more $$$ than the 100mm bowl jaws but can hold up to 12" long (IIRC) and you still have the dovetail for standard recess or tenon. With the PG's you have the option if the need arises in your future.
Much will depend on your style, practical vs artistic. For almost all I use the 1/3 diameter for the base size so I may tend to larger jaws than others. I will have about a 4" base for a 12" bowl. An artistic bowl may have a 2" or smaller base.
https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content...Table-inch.pdf

[John K Jordan]

I have a few chucks. But always seem to use this one w the same jaws. I wanna get more into using the correct jaws and all. I see a lot of videos where guys have these black jaws and seem deep and large. ... for the SN2, what’s the best all around jaws to use for bowl work.

Sam,

This is my opinion. Everyone has them.

I think what to use depends on the work and other factors, some I can think of at the moment:
- the diameter and height of the blank,
- the weight and balance of the blank,
- the type of wood,
- the speed turned,
- the grain orientation and wood integrity at the holding point,
- the mode (using a tenon or recess)
- properly prepared tenon/recess

And possibly:
- the turner's skill
- the type of tool and cuts made
- personal safety practices
- are we feeling lucky today?

One place to start is the Nova chuck jaw manual:
PDF here: Technatool Chuck Accessory Jaw Manual
This manual is especially good as a starting point for those seeking guidance.

Perhaps read this first then evaluate for yourself what to take from a specific YouTube video. I'm sure the "official" numbers are conservative for various reasons, including liability. In practice a specific turner might turn a much larger block of wood without getting hurt. Until the time he does. I've seen a lot of things in person and on YouTube that were questionable and some which seriously scared me.

And remember, almost none of the people making videos will show you their mistakes. That takes a very honest and exceptional person! Check this out starting about 3:30 (my hero!):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4x8pZN6pNM

BTW, the color of the jaws shouldn't matter. I use 16 Nova chucks (one Titan and some SN2s, SNs, and G3s) and numerous jaw sets and some are black and some are not, although identical. For larger work I use the largest and strongest chucks and jaws I decide is appropriate based on my experience. And I stay out of the line of fire when working and when turning the lathe on. Every time. Even a full face shield and safety glasses can not possibly protect from a face-smashing impact from a large chunk of wood.

While gaining experience, please stay out of the "line of fire!". Then, once you have years of experience, stay out of the "line of fire!" !!!

JKJ

[Michael Mills]

I agree with John that the color doesn't matter.. and if you order you may get different than the picture. They will be black (coated?) or bright (nickle plated?).
The are the PG's and 70mm at Amazon. The PG's are only about $2 more than the 100mm bowl.
https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-PJSN-Pow...nova+powergrip
The 70's look a little odd because of the screw placement but the jaws are thicker than the 50's.
https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-JS70N-70...ords=nova+70mm

[Sam Beagle]

Ok. Good info. My biggest concern is using scrapers on a chuck. On larger bowls, I always seem to have the wood fly out like RH did.

[Jeff Wimer]

I have two G3 chucks and several jaw sets. Yet it seems like I have a gap in my sizes. Invariably I will come across an opening or turn a spigot that is too smal, or need to hold a piece of an odd size.

[John K Jordan]

...On larger bowls, I always seem to have the wood fly out like RH did.

Yikes, "always" or even occasionally should definitely not be happening. You might take a close look at your procedures including the chuck/jaw combination, tenon/recess construction, your tools and how you are using them. One of the best ways is to get another woodturner to look at how you prepare and turn a bowl.

Do you have a turning club nearby? Most clubs will have experienced people more than willing to share what they've learned. Both of the clubs I attend do and so have those I've visited. I often have visitors and students in my shop and I and others are happy to go to another turner's shop for a little one-on-one. You don't list where you live in your profile - if you do maybe someone reading lives close or can recommend a club. If you live anywhere near East TN you are welcome to come for a day.

I don't know your experience level but in general, the number of catches goes down with experience until they are almost always due not to technique but inattention, e.g. bumping the tool into the work, looking away and talking while turning (as when demoing for an audience!), or distracted by something.

BTW, I learned a long time ago that me and large scrapers don't get along for significant wood removal. I usually hollow with gouges or Hunter tools . (Of course, I might be the slowest turner in the Southeast too!) I do use scrapers a lot, especially negative rake scrapers, but more in the final stages. In fact, I gave away all my big scrapers and Easy Wood tools and reground most of my other scrapers into NRS. However, I do hollow small things with small scrapers. For example, I hollow these bell ornaments with a parting tool (basically a scraper) then clean up with a small curved scraper:

bells_cutaway_IMG_5169.jpg bells_PC244161es.jpg

JKJ

[Michael Mills]

If you are losing items, or even if you aren't, the videos by Stuart Batty on fundamentals are very good. Most are 5- 15 minutes in length. For new folks I would suggest viewing most of them over a period of time. He has three on chucks, recesses, and tenons; all very detailed.
https://vimeo.com/woodturning/videos...rmat:thumbnail

[Dave Ogren]

Reed is not only also my hero but also my mentor. But I don't think that he knows it.

[Sam Beagle]

I live in central PA.
I shouldn’t say I always lose pieces. But when I do, it’s from a scraper. I turned a piece for Xmas yesterday and was successful w no flying items.
As far as clubs. NONE
I don’t even know anyone near me who turns. Besides driving to Harrisburg for a woodcraft class. I’m self thought and like learning via video and forums.

[John K Jordan]

I live in central PA.
I shouldn’t say I always lose pieces. But when I do, it’s from a scraper. I turned a piece for Xmas yesterday and was successful w no flying items.
As far as clubs. NONE
I don’t even know anyone near me who turns. Besides driving to Harrisburg for a woodcraft class. I’m self thought and like learning via video and forums.

Maybe check the AAW site. Central PA is pretty big but I see clubs listed in the cities of State College, Indiana, Harrisburg, Chambersburg, Jacobus, Phoenixville, Allentown, Troy, and two in Lancaster. Maybe one of those is close enough to drive, at least on occasion. Maybe you'll find someone at a club who lives down the road from you! You could even email the clubs and ask if they list any members near you. Or ask at the Woodcraft store - if they know someone from your neck of the woods they may be willing to pass along your phone number or email address.

I go to two clubs, one almost an hour and one almost two hours away - several of us carpool to that one.
Here's the AAW map: http://www.woodturner.org/?page=AAWConnectsMap Zoom in and scroll around.

I also googled WOODTURNING CLUBS IN CENTRAL PA but they looked like the same clubs.

When I started I learned from books myself, mostly two, one by Richard Raffan and one by Mike Darlow. I didn't know any turners or about any clubs (or videos). When I did finally found a club it was helpful.

BTW, I grew up in PA, south of Pittsburgh. It's a good place to be FROM, especially in the winter!

JKJ