20x28 workshop build

[Tim M Tuttle]

I agree. This is one job that DIY is arduous. The pros are FAST and since mud work is an "art form", the fact that they do it daily makes for a better end result. In the scope of things, they don't really charge all that much for the work, either, compared to the heavy labor involved to DIY.

I can handle the hanging part (although I've yet to deal with a ceiling) but the mudding and finishing part is just not worth my time. I am terrible at it and a pro will finish it 10 times faster than I could hope for.

[Tim M Tuttle]

Been a while since I updated, still painting and trimming as I have time. Painting primer + two coats of paint on everything takes way longer than I anticipated.

The minisplit is AWESOME.

Lots of lights to still install.

Putting a chair rail on the wall, so that's why the paint line is a little jagged.

Great looking shop, man. I cant wait for the day I am able to build one just for me. I have a severe case of shop envy right now.

[Jim Becker]

Tom, your shop is looking great! And I agree about the MiniSpit. Mine has also been "awesome" in every way.

[Tim M Tuttle]

Tom, your shop is looking great! And I agree about the MiniSpit. Mine has also been "awesome" in every way.

Mine too. So glad I took the plunge. Now if I could just insulate my ceiling.

[Jim Becker]

Mine too. So glad I took the plunge. Now if I could just insulate my ceiling.

Yea, your install was the 'final nail" that got me to do my system. As to your ceiling...you could do it by installing a drop ceiling that will support some insulation. The panels would seriously impact noise levels, too...my shop is like a "house of quiet" when I walk in there now with the tiles up there. Even the tunes sound a lot better!

[Tim M Tuttle]

Yea, your install was the 'final nail" that got me to do my system. As to your ceiling...you could do it by installing a drop ceiling that will support some insulation. The panels would seriously impact noise levels, too...my shop is like a "house of quiet" when I walk in there now with the tiles up there. Even the tunes sound a lot better!

I only have 9 foot ceilings in my garage and they are sagging severely. My big fall projects will include ripping out the ceiling, fixing the sagging joists, redoing the ceiling with the attic access and then insulating. When I added my subpanel I did everything in conduit and it's starting to get annoying having it all over the walls so I might rewire the whole thing again as well.

[Thomas Crawford]

Yea, your install was the 'final nail" that got me to do my system. As to your ceiling...you could do it by installing a drop ceiling that will support some insulation. The panels would seriously impact noise levels, too...my shop is like a "house of quiet" when I walk in there now with the tiles up there. Even the tunes sound a lot better!

I'm considering adding some drop acoustic panels on the ceiling between some of the lights, I think it will cut down on the echo and the music will sound better as you said.

[Jim Becker]

I only have 9 foot ceilings in my garage and they are sagging severely. My big fall projects will include ripping out the ceiling, fixing the sagging joists, redoing the ceiling with the attic access and then insulating. When I added my subpanel I did everything in conduit and it's starting to get annoying having it all over the walls so I might rewire the whole thing again as well.

That sounds like a really good long-term solution, Tim. Messy work, but worthwhile. I have a little more area in my shop to complete my ceiling as well as some building to do upstairs to create some more conditioned space for certain operations myself...once it's not deathly hot up there!

I'm considering adding some drop acoustic panels on the ceiling between some of the lights, I think it will cut down on the echo and the music will sound better as you said.

They can make a big difference, Thomas. Use acoustic panels to face the work area and for suspended noise mitigation, mount some foam or other absorbent material on the back/top side of the panels to help reduce "bounce". This is a technique often used in restaurants that have too many hard surfaces with resulting noise levels that are uncomfortable for guests.

[Thomas Crawford]

Looking at something like this for the panels, except not as pretty since its a workshop:

http://acousticsfreq.com/how-to-buil...oustic-panels/

[Van Huskey]

Looking at something like this for the panels, except not as pretty since its a workshop:

http://acousticsfreq.com/how-to-buil...oustic-panels/

Those work great for frequencies above about 200hz or the Schroeder frequency of the room whichever is higher. Note you want to use compressed fiberglass or rockwool, not the fluffy stuff. Owens Corning 703 or Roxul Safe n Sound are two popular choices. They come in rigid sheets and the thicker you go the lower frequencies they will absorb but for general use in a shop 3" should suffice. Be aware you need to use cloth that is as transparent to sound as possible many fabrics reflect a lot of sound and this will significantly reduce the efficacy of the absorbers. Guilford of Maine FR 701 is a standard relatively inexpensive option (often referred to in HT circles/forums as GOM). You can get custom pictures and prints on fabric from a couple of sources like Spoonflower but that is more a home theater or studio kinda thing but if you want to have pictures of trees etc, I can give you links for the proper materials and how to order them for this application if you want to go all interior designer in your shop.

[Thomas Crawford]

Those work great for frequencies above about 200hz or the Schroeder frequency of the room whichever is higher. Note you want to use compressed fiberglass or rockwool, not the fluffy stuff. Owens Corning 703 or Roxul Safe n Sound are two popular choices. They come in rigid sheets and the thicker you go the lower frequencies they will absorb but for general use in a shop 3" should suffice. Be aware you need to use cloth that is as transparent to sound as possible many fabrics reflect a lot of sound and this will significantly reduce the efficacy of the absorbers. Guilford of Maine FR 701 is a standard relatively inexpensive option (often referred to in HT circles/forums as GOM). You can get custom pictures and prints on fabric from a couple of sources like Spoonflower but that is more a home theater or studio kinda thing but if you want to have pictures of trees etc, I can give you links for the proper materials and how to order them for this application if you want to go all interior designer in your shop.

I'd be interested in the links, I'm not afraid to make it pretty.

[Van Huskey]

If you have some time:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...els-cheap.html

Be aware it is a somewhat active thread with 3700+ posts and near 400K views. The first post is a good build post and gets you started with the idea of using some of the custom fabric printers like Spoonflower. Be aware you can just go to Spoonflower and pick a design that you like and use it, there are thousands. The thread is mostly about movie posters and things like getting the proper DPI and tips on how to clean up images and remove text from posters etc. If you were interested you could upload and have pictures of machines, company names, warning signs, shop rules etc etc printed. HT guys do it because it looks good in the theater and companies charge big money for acoustic panels with even non-custom art on them.

[Thomas Crawford]

Update:

Finally finished trim and painting except I need 1 more coat on the door. Lighting is up. Ordering dust collector this week and planning on moving my workbench in after I vacuum and mop.

[Jim Becker]

Looks great Thomas! Are you going to put anything on the floor before you start dragging gear in?

[Thomas Crawford]

Looks great Thomas! Are you going to put anything on the floor before you start dragging gear in?

I don't think so. Eventually I'd like to have a wood floor but that chances of that happening after I get everything in there are pretty low.