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Thread: center punch

  1. #1

    center punch

    how do you center punch end grain wood without the punch drifting off center?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie Connell View Post
    how do you center punch end grain wood without the punch drifting off center?
    Almost impossible. (usually)

    What's the application? I use various methods for precise holes but it depends on the situation (and the material).

    A sharper point can help. When I want to mark precisely I use a sharp awl. Also, the center punches I have don't have very sharp points since they are made for metal work. You might try marking by tapping a sharpened rod to see if a sharper point drifts less, then if it helps sharpen the point on a center punch. Most automatic center punches, however, have powerful springs and I might be concerned they would drive a sharp point too far into the wood. (Some have adjustable force, though.)

    BTW, I don't use a center punch in end grain, I always mark with a pencil then drill a small hole with a small gimlet:
    Gimlet1-300x158.jpg
    For me this is quicker and cleaner.

    If the blank is square and not too big, you can use the type of marker that has four angled legs and a sliding center punch you tap with a mallet or something. (Sorry, I can't find a photo at the moment). This holds the punch better and keeps it from moving sideways as much.

    But is this for putting divots in the ends of a spindle turning blank for mounting between centers? If so, I've never been too concerned if the center was off by a tiny bit since the blank will be turned round anyway, unless the blank didn't have enough extra.

    JKJ

  3. #3
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    I use a cup live center with the point removed, so no punch required. Without the point you can reposition easily small amounts to get best rotation. When you have a point it tries to go back to the original indentation.
    When working I had more money than time. In retirement I have more time than money. Love the time, miss the money.

  4. #4
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    Similar to John, I use a sharp awl. Place it over the spot and either push it in or hit it with a hammer to make the mark.
    Don

  5. #5
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    You should not be fastening into end grain anyway.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  6. #6
    Don't recall where I got it, but for spindle turning blanks I have a wall mounted metal "V" that has a fairly dull "knife" blade that starts at the crux of the V and extends in a straight line half way between. Set the block in that, tap the other end with a mallet and rotate 45 degrees and repeat (flip around to do the other end. Exact center, and the fibers are mashed enough a live center sits very well in it. Fast, too.

    Found a pic: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/...ols/037004.jpg

  7. #7
    i am doing inside out turnings so it is critical to be dead center. i have tried sharp awl but it follows the grain. i will try gimlet.

  8. #8
    Iam doing inside out turning so the center has to be dead center. I have tried sharp awl and it just follows the grain. Will try gimlet.
    Thinks

  9. #9
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    I drill a shallow hole with a center bit. The center bit has a 60 degree point, as does the live center.

  10. #10
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    I agree with Marvin that process will get it as good as it can get, center bits are used to center metal lathe turnings so they will defiantly work with wood and they are not costly to have a few around in various sizes.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie Connell View Post
    Iam doing inside out turning so the center has to be dead center. I have tried sharp awl and it just follows the grain. Will try gimlet.
    Thinks
    Ronnie,

    I'll call John Lucas tomorrow and ask what he recommends - he's done a boatload of inside out and other precision turning over the years.

    JKJ

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by William C Rogers View Post
    I use a cup live center with the point removed, so no punch required. Without the point you can reposition easily small amounts to get best rotation. When you have a point it tries to go back to the original indentation.
    As often the case, the best method used may depend on what is being turned. For some turnings, I do find the ability to reposition a good method.

    But mounting spindle blanks between centers there is usually no reason to reposition the live center. In fact, the lack of a point in the live center might cause a disaster. I mark the center (by hand using the "fingers" marking gauge method) then make a hole with the gimlet in both ends of the blank. There are two reasons:

    - When I place the blank on the lathe it is easier to put the drive and live center points in the holes than it is to bend down to look carefully at my pencil lines AND juggle to hold the marks on the blank on the drive center end while bringing up the tailstock. The points are positively engaged in the holes. Engaging the points by hand pressure is easier on softer woods but won't work on ebony or lignum vitae.

    - For thin spindles from hard exotics or brittle woods (from blanks 1/2" square or so), tightening the tailstock may drive a point into the wood and split it. I've had that happen with the ends of "magic" wands before I started making holes first. For thin spindles I now almost always use 1/2" steb drive and live centers with spring-loaded points so this is not as important as it might have been, but the first reason is enough for all spindle blanks.

    JKJ

  13. #13
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    Center drills

    Quote Originally Posted by david privett View Post
    I agree with Marvin that process will get it as good as it can get, center bits are used to center metal lathe turnings so they will defiantly work with wood and they are not costly to have a few around in various sizes.
    For woodturners not familiar with center drills, they look like this:

    center drills.jpg

    So cheap (try Amazon) they are almost free. I never drill a hole in wood or metal without using the center drills unless I don't care if it is precise. In fact, I use them so much on the wood lathe I keep one mounted in a spare Jacobs chuck to make it quick.

    JKJ

  14. #14
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    Youngstown, Oh
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    For inside out turnings I take a small block plane and take a nick off the inside corners before gluing together creating an exact center without a punch.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hunkele View Post
    For inside out turnings I take a small block plane and take a nick off the inside corners before gluing together creating an exact center without a punch.
    That sounds like an excellent idea!

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