Sliding table saw?

[Jim Becker]

Jon, a parallel guide doesn't help with ripping material longer than the wagon. What folks use for that would be a sled that runs in the slot that's typically on the top of a slider's wagon so that you get the full throw of the slider plus the extra length that the sled gives using the slot as a guide. This is quite often how folks with a short slider will process material longer than they can with just the wagon alone.

Parallel guides, on the other hand, including the so-called "Fritz and Franz" jigs work best with material shorter than the wagon. You get the benefit of the precise cut that comes with moving the material through the blade in an extremely stable way...something that's pretty impossible to do with one's hands pushing a board along a fence where small variations in hand pressure, etc., affect the cutting precision.

[Jon Snider]

Thanks Jim. That’s the way I understood it from the videos. I’ve seen the one with the slider sled too.

Seems like at a a certain point, if you need 14’ gunwale stock it is best just ripped traditionally on the rip fence. I’ve been told by I think it was Sam B that the MM fence is nicer than the Biesenmeyer on my PM. So, reasons to keep PM 66 are disappearing.

[Jim Becker]

Euro machines typically have a high/low fence like the old UniFence was configured. And yes, truly long stock can and probably should be ripped using the fence. Just keep in mind that you will have to get used to standing in a different position with most sliders for that because of how they are built to support the wagon. No big deal...just different. And out of the "line of fire", too.

[Rod Sheridan]

Yes the Euro fences are nicer to use, giving you the choice of two heights and the ability to use it as a short fence for increased safety when ripping solid material, or using it a s a length stop for cross cutting..........Regards, Rod.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Thanks Jim. That’s the way I understood it from the videos. I’ve seen the one with the slider sled too.

Seems like at a a certain point, if you need 14’ gunwale stock it is best just ripped traditionally on the rip fence. I’ve been told by I think it was Sam B that the MM fence is nicer than the Biesenmeyer on my PM. So, reasons to keep PM 66 are disappearing.

Jon, I kept a nice Unisaw for years after I got my slider, and it just got progressively less and less use. It ended up becoming a "jobsite" saw on a long term major remodel, and last year I finally sold it. The only thing that a slider won't do is be portable, so I still have a Dewalt folding saw. I'd kept the Uni because I thought I'd keep it as a dado machine but it just wasn't worth losing that much shop space for that one function that it turned out, was fairly rare in my shop. Especially when the slider does it better, with minimal fuss.

[Rod Sheridan]

Removing the guard to make a rip cut throws the whole "safer than a cabinet saw" arguement out the window from 20 stories up.

Hi Patrick, I'm curious about the comment regarding removing the guard for a rip cut.

Do you do that, and why?

Regards, Rod.

[John Kee]

Jon, a parallel guide doesn't help with ripping material longer than the wagon. What folks use for that would be a sled that runs in the slot that's typically on the top of a slider's wagon so that you get the full throw of the slider plus the extra length that the sled gives using the slot as a guide. This is quite often how folks with a short slider will process material longer than they can with just the wagon alone.

Parallel guides, on the other hand, including the so-called "Fritz and Franz" jigs work best with material shorter than the wagon. You get the benefit of the precise cut that comes with moving the material through the blade in an extremely stable way...something that's pretty impossible to do with one's hands pushing a board along a fence where small variations in hand pressure, etc., affect the cutting precision.

Sorry Jim but I completely disagree with your parallel guide statement but everyone is entitled to an opinion. Its too broad based a statement, I routinely do over length rips for glue up ready boards instead of jointing. The only reason to use a sled IMHO would for mini sliders under 80" and for people with on a budget. In any type of production environment they are to time consuming to setup and take away precious blade height. Like in the posted video.

Jon yes you are missing something that I thought the pics cleared up. The guides are stable and accurate. Anyways use whatever method suits your fancy, you will only understand the benefits if you try. Those of that do this as a profession do have a few tricks that we occasionally share but its truly becoming harder.

[Jim Becker]

John, I'd like to hear how you do a parallel rip on the wagon where the material is longer than the normal cut length possible...your technique might come in handy at some point.

[John Kee]

This is what I posted on Jon Sniders Slider thread about over length cutting using parallel guides. I don't do videos but there are 4 pics of the procedure along with an explanation. I hate the same discussion over multiple threads like these forums are becoming famous for so this is my last post. Anyway PM me if you have questions.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....41#post2811641

[Jim Becker]

Ok, thanks, John. I see what you're doing, although one of the reasons I like ripping on the slider is the ability to lock the material down on the wagon. Clearly, the method you describe does require moving the board independently through the blade for the first part of the cut. But I guess that's not a terrible compromise for a very long board.

[Jon Snider]

Sorry John. I somehow missed those on the other thread. I get it now. Thx.

[Matthew Springer]

As someone who bought a used Hammer K3 last October (thanks John), I am very happy and won't ever be going back to a standard cabinet saw. I found the learning curve was really not that bad. I got adjusted to it almost instantly and have never actually used the saw in "classic rip" mode sine I've owned it. All sled all the time.

The ability to lock down a cut and stand two feet to the side is so much better that I am shocked I ever thought getting anywhere near to blade was a good idea.

That said the Hammer K3 is a great saw, but it's got some rough edges engineering wise. Roger Xue is a friend of mine and his blog review is out there and does a pretty good job going through some of the issues. My main one is the factory dust control just isn't that great.