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  1. #1

    Table saw safety reminder

    Saw this video on Youtube. An excellent reminder of how easily an accident can happen
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fifjjacjLBE

  2. #2
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    Unfortunately, I was in the hospital yesterday and had a chance to talk to a man who had that same thing occur to him. He had several fingers chewed up and luckily had them reattached. He had quite a bit of nerve damage also. When I asked what his next step was, all he could say, with a grin mind you, was SawStop.

  3. #3
    Good video. Good reminder. Thanks for posting it Gene.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  4. #4
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    Thanks. I hadn't thought of that particular aspect of how a riving knife helps prevent kickbacks.

  5. #5
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    I disagree with his height of blade setting shown in the video. The blade should be set so that the bottom of the gullets clear the wood being cut. Blade manufactures recommend higher blade settings than he was using. IMO his accident was caused by the blade being set too low. Yes if he had a riving knife installed it would have also prevented the problem, so would a ripping feather board or rollers installed on his fence to pull the work piece toward the fence behind the blade. My Grip Tite feather boards have a roller mounted on a bias so that when I place it on the fence behind the blade it continuously pulls the work piece against the fence. A good push block on the piece being cut would have also prevented the twisting effect at the end of the cut.

    It is a good reminder to be careful around power tools, but his item number four on his safety list is wrong.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    I disagree with his height of blade setting shown in the video. The blade should be set so that the bottom of the gullets clear the wood being cut. Blade manufactures recommend higher blade settings than he was using. IMO his accident was caused by the blade being set too low. Yes if he had a riving knife installed it would have also prevented the problem, so would a ripping feather board or rollers installed on his fence to pull the work piece toward the fence behind the blade. My Grip Tite feather boards have a roller mounted on a bias so that when I place it on the fence behind the blade it continuously pulls the work piece against the fence. A good push block on the piece being cut would have also prevented the twisting effect at the end of the cut.

    It is a good reminder to be careful around power tools, but his item number four on his safety list is wrong.
    One reason to set a blade as you described is for better dust collection when used with the dust/blade guard. The downward spinning helps push dust into the under the table dust shroud.

    I had not watched any videos from this person before and have no idea about his background. But youtube "instructional" videos are a potential minefield and if anyone sees a video showing unsafe practices in a forum you belong to, please report it so the moderators so they can take another look.

    Simon

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    I disagree with his height of blade setting shown in the video. The blade should be set so that the bottom of the gullets clear the wood being cut. Blade manufactures recommend higher blade settings than he was using. IMO his accident was caused by the blade being set too low. Yes if he had a riving knife installed it would have also prevented the problem, so would a ripping feather board or rollers installed on his fence to pull the work piece toward the fence behind the blade. My Grip Tite feather boards have a roller mounted on a bias so that when I place it on the fence behind the blade it continuously pulls the work piece against the fence. A good push block on the piece being cut would have also prevented the twisting effect at the end of the cut.

    It is a good reminder to be careful around power tools, but his item number four on his safety list is wrong.
    How did the blade height cause kick back? And he's not claiming that blade height can cause/prevent the accident, he's saying that because his blade was low that it did not cause further damage to his fingers.

  8. #8
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    Didnt the Woodwhisperer post this guys video too recently?
    Last edited by Ben Rivel; 12-06-2017 at 12:16 PM.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim M Tuttle View Post
    How did the blade height cause kick back? And he's not claiming that blade height can cause/prevent the accident, he's saying that because his blade was low that it did not cause further damage to his fingers.
    The lower the blade, the greater the chance the wood will climb up the front and back side of the blade. The higher the blade the more downward force there is on the entry cut. The gullets need to be clear so they can effectively remove the chips.
    Lee Schierer
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    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

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    It seems like it's only been in the last several years that people have been preaching (falsely, I believe) that the teeth should be just protruding above the stock. Having the gullets above the surface is the minimum as far as I'm concerned. And if using a guard, it can be much higher.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    It seems like it's only been in the last several years that people have been preaching (falsely, I believe) that the teeth should be just protruding above the stock. Having the gullets above the surface is the minimum as far as I'm concerned. And if using a guard, it can be much higher.
    Yea I always set the gullet to the top of the material.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    It seems like it's only been in the last several years that people have been preaching (falsely, I believe) that the teeth should be just protruding above the stock. Having the gullets above the surface is the minimum as far as I'm concerned. And if using a guard, it can be much higher.
    People do that because it gives them a false sense of security or protection, thinking they can "get away" from the blade fast enough if the blade is "low" enough. What they miss is the blade is actually the exposed teeth PLUS the full thickness of the stock they are working with. So it is 1/2"+ or 3/4"+ spinning metal instead of the 1/8" they think they are dealing with. In any kickback encounter, it is violent and uncontrollable; even 1/2" exposed steel can maim mercilessly.

    Simon

  13. #13
    I sweat every time I read these threads. Ignorance is the risk for the Inexperienced. Complacency is the enemy of the Experienced. These threads remind me to be vigilant.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I sweat every time I read these threads. Ignorance is the risk for the Inexperienced. Complacency is the enemy of the Experienced. These threads remind me to be vigilant.
    You said it best.

    Simon

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    It seems like it's only been in the last several years that people have been preaching (falsely, I believe) that the teeth should be just protruding above the stock. Having the gullets above the surface is the minimum as far as I'm concerned. And if using a guard, it can be much higher.
    When I took shop in 9th grade that is what our shop teacher told us was the correct way to set up a saw. I used to do the same thing until I noticed that some rip cuts wanted to climb up the blade as I started cuts. I then read the manufacturers recommendations. I now hav my blade set so at least the gullets are clear of the wood or a bit higher.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

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