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Thread: Moxon vise design "review"?

  1. #1
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    Red face Moxon vise design "review"?

    Hi everyone,

    Since a while I've been slowly working on a "fully parametric" version of a Moxon vise design in Fusion 360. Fully parametric meaning you can change all the sizes of width, height, thread diameter etc etc with the model still working. But I'd like some review of the model itself too. If you feel like having a look:

    http://a360.co/2A7FQPL

    The idea is to make a vise I can clamp to a table/bench. I know there's some kits out there, but this was a great reason to learn Fusion360, build a project and then actually make it in wood/metal with the help of a welder for the metal bits.

    Try the "explode" view for more insights...


    all ad-vise (bada-boom-tschhhh) is welcome!


    Bram

    PS: once this is done I'll share the 3D model + plans with the world.

  2. #2
    Looks good! Are you planning on using 3/4" stock for the whole build as the model shows, or will you be using thicker stock where you can?

    The one thing I'll mention about your design. . . the front chop should be as 2" + if you have over 16" between screws. It helps, in my experience.
    Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Evans View Post
    Looks good! Are you planning on using 3/4" stock for the whole build as the model shows, or will you be using thicker stock where you can?
    Well, being on the other side of the ocean I'll be using mm but yeah, my idea was to make the whole thing out of single sized stock. I.e. with the marked dados/... etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Evans View Post
    The one thing I'll mention about your design. . . the front chop should be as 2" + if you have over 16" between screws. It helps, in my experience.
    Not sure what you mean by that, could you elaborate? I was planning to let the front of the vise have a little camber on it so that it SLIGHTLY cambers towards the back part in the middle between the vice, i.e. for more holding power.

    Bram

  4. #4
    My apologies. I mis-typed a little bit, and muddied my meaning, it seems.


    The front chop should be 51mm or greater in thickness if there is 405mm or greater distance between the screws. Simply adding another 19-20 mm board to the front chop would take care of that.

    The camber may help with harder woods, but will hinder a little if you are using soft wood, in my opinion. You'll have to exert more pressure to get the same result, resulting in bruised wood in the center of the board you are attempting to clamp in the vise, with less bruising towards the edges. A better solution may be a leather or rubber pad on the jaws. (Thats the route I go personally.)

    Borders do strange things to units of measure. . .where are you located? Didn't see a location in your profile. . .
    Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Evans View Post
    The front chop should be 51mm or greater in thickness if there is 405mm or greater distance between the screws. Simply adding another 19-20 mm board to the front chop would take care of that.
    Interesting! Is this based on some kind of rule-of-thumb?

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Evans View Post
    The camber may help with harder woods, but will hinder a little if you are using soft wood, in my opinion. You'll have to exert more pressure to get the same result, resulting in bruised wood in the center of the board you are attempting to clamp in the vise, with less bruising towards the edges. A better solution may be a leather or rubber pad on the jaws. (Thats the route I go personally.)
    Oh I was planning to add leather, so perhaps then I skip the camber...

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Evans View Post
    Borders do strange things to units of measure. . .where are you located? Didn't see a location in your profile. . .
    Good point! Added! Berlin/Germany...

    bram

  6. #6
    I don't think it's a rule, but it's based on my experience building quite a few moxon/twin screw vises.
    Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Evans View Post
    I don't think it's a rule, but it's based on my experience building quite a few moxon/twin screw vises.
    Nice! Just saw your shop, always nice to get help from a specialist!

    BTW what do you think about making this vice first out of simple pine or construction lumber? I'm really a beginner who still needs a lot of practice...

  8. #8
    Thanks for the compliment.

    A mock-up in pine or similar would work well. Since the screws are metal inserted into the wood you won't get a lot of wear due to wood on wood movement. Not sure how long it will hold up to daily use, but I've built plenty out of softer woods and wouldn't blink an eye at building at least a prototype out of pine.

    I'm a bit curious as to the lumber availability there in Germany. Also, do you have a good choice of sawmills in the your area? If so, I'd contact one and see if they have some common stock that they'd like to get rid of at a good price. That's how I get the majority of my prototype lumber and secondary lumber for drawer sides and interior parts of furniture.
    Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.

  9. #9
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    Sadly enough I'm in a big city (Berlin) with no car, so getting to a sawmill is probably just impossible for me...

    Some of the big box stores here have some stuff other than pine, but the selection is very limited and the price is high.

  10. #10
    Nice rendering of your plan. May only question is that I don't see a garter for the front face to keep the screw in place. Have I missed something? There's a lot of screw sticking out that would be a hindrance, IMO. A garter at the end of the screw would solve that as well.

    And "plus one" on the 50 mm stock. 18-25 mm is really too bendy for serious work. Thicker would be wasteful. Whatever your standard mill size around 50 mm should be fine.
    Last edited by James Waldron; 12-05-2017 at 1:10 PM.
    Fair winds and following seas,
    Jim Waldron

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Waldron View Post
    Nice rendering of your plan. May only question is that I don't see a garter for the front face to keep the screw in place. Have I missed something? There's a lot of screw sticking out that would be a hindrance, IMO. A garter at the end of the screw would solve that as well.
    Not sure what you mean, might have a lost in translation problem

    The front of the vise would move freely on the threads. I would add a large washer between the "wheels" and the front of the vise so the wood of the front doesn't get broken up by the wheel. Does that kind of solve the garter idea?

    Bram

  12. #12
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    I added the washer + holes to the design, have a look...

  13. #13
    A garter joins the front face to the end of the threads so the screw can rotate, but as it moves, in or out, the face moves with it; no sliding in and out and less wear and tear. Almost any vise web sites will show a garter for almost any style of vise. Not a requirement but a very nice convenience for very little effort.
    Fair winds and following seas,
    Jim Waldron

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Bram de Jong View Post
    Hi everyone,

    Since a while I've been slowly working on a "fully parametric" version of a Moxon vise design in Fusion 360. Fully parametric meaning you can change all the sizes of width, height, thread diameter etc etc with the model still working. But I'd like some review of the model itself too. If you feel like having a look:

    http://a360.co/2A7FQPL

    The idea is to make a vise I can clamp to a table/bench. I know there's some kits out there, but this was a great reason to learn Fusion360, build a project and then actually make it in wood/metal with the help of a welder for the metal bits.

    Try the "explode" view for more insights...
    Congratulations - well done with the Fusion 360 - I am still only on AutoCAD 2016 2D modelling.

    Question: Do you put leather / rubberised cork on both faces of the vice, or just the front chop?

  15. #15
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    I built my Moxon vise in 2011. I still use the basic shell ...



    The screws are set 520mm (20 1/2") apart, but the total base is 840mm (33") long and 105mm (4 1/8") deep. The face is 110mm (4 1/4") high.

    This is constructed from 1 1/4" thick Jarrah. It has never flexed and always felt solid. I would not change this.

    Recently I made the second lot of modifications in 8 years ...






    Actually, shortly after this, I made a slight modification to the the fold over section, by shortening it by 1/8". There needs to be a little light behind the meeting of tail baseline and pin board.

    If you do not plan to add this feature, make the chop 1/4" - 3/8" lower than the rear of the vise, otherwise you will cut up the chop when transferring marks.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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