Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 36 of 36

Thread: Live edge dining table - questions

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,568
    Michael, I work with a lot of live edge slabs and I would highly advise you to take those to a kiln operator and have them dried below 10%. The slabs that you describe will require about 7-10 days in a kiln to dry below 10%. Be sure that they are sterilized at the end of the kiln run.

    The other thing that is very important is to finish all sides of the slabs with the same type of finish and same number of coats.

    Rubio monocoat will provide a warm oil color, but it is not ideal for wide slab tables because it is not very impervious to moisture and wide slabs will noticeably cup if exposed to changes in RH%. My advice would be to cover the Rubio after it dries with 2-3 coats of post catalyzed conversion varnish (all sides). Post cat is best applied in a spray booth and while wearing a respirator.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,293
    Blog Entries
    7
    Tables like these, and any wide tables really, should be properly battened. The base helps to do this and this is one of the things often ignored by metal bases.

    Most tables made like this in Japan, where they are very common but typically well made, are made with sliding dovetail battens. They will usually not do anything more than an oil finish, but when properly battened they tend not to do strange things.

    I don't usually build really wide tables from one piece, but all of those that I have built are still quite flat.

    It's also common now to make these tables out of exceptionally thick material, not sure why that is but it does a disservice to the structure. If you keep the table to around 1.5"-1.75" thick it'll make life easier for the table as the structure will be able to effect it with a greater chance of success.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 12-09-2017 at 11:14 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. Gentelmen, seeing so many woodworkers experienced working with live edge slab I'd like to use the opportunity to ad my questions.

    1. I'm from Poland but I live in Hong Kong and HK is a place where I started woodworking. I'm planning to ship some 2 inch thick slabs from Poland to here and I'm wondering what influence the difference in humidity in both countries might have on the wood meaning moving the slabs from place with lower humidity where they were seasoned for 2-3 years to place more humid. It seems also that humid seasons in both places are reversed - humid winter in Poland vs humid summer in Hong Kong. Would it be more safe to ship the slabs during more humid season in Poland? I know wood will cup when it get more dry but what if it will gain moisture in new place? Could that work in my favor that even indoor residential spaces in HK will have higher humidity 60-70% - will cupping still happen? I've read that I should let the wood acclimate for a while but how to acclimate the wood if the table would be finally placed in air-coned office space that will be for sure more dry than what I can get in my workshop?

    2. I'm planning to weld a steel frame as base for the slab. Would it be better to fasten the slab to the frame to prevent it from cupping or would it be better to just place it on top on some bolts fixed to the frame and let it move?

    3. I spoke some time ago with experienced carpenter about the bedside tables he did for my mother. I delivered him 500mm wide slab of ash - 2 inch thick and he said it has to be re-sawn and glued together (what he did immediately) , with center part removed to prevent cupping. I can see many examples of single piece tables. What would be the necessary steps to avoid cupping?
    Filip,
    HK, PRC
    hk.png pl.png
    IMG_0137.jpg
    Last edited by Filip Winiewicz; 03-05-2018 at 1:51 AM.

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Filip Winiewicz View Post
    I'm from Poland but I live in Hong Kong and HK is a place where I started woodworking.
    Filip,

    Just curious where you do woodworking in HKG. You must be in South Lantau, DB, or the New Territories. I've lived in Tung Chung for about 11 years. I have some hand power tools there, but living in a flat on the 55th floor of a high rise isn't the most ideal place for a woodworking hobby. I keep my real shop in the US and fly back to use it whenever I can. More space, easy access to quality tools and materials for cheaper prices.

  5. Quote Originally Posted by Keith Weber View Post
    Filip,

    Just curious where you do woodworking in HKG. You must be in South Lantau, DB, or the New Territories. I've lived in Tung Chung for about 11 years. I have some hand power tools there, but living in a flat on the 55th floor of a high rise isn't the most ideal place for a woodworking hobby. I keep my real shop in the US and fly back to use it whenever I can. More space, easy access to quality tools and materials for cheaper prices.
    Hey Keith, I live on Lamma Island. Yep HK might be the least friendly place to do woodworking. Are you still in HK? We can chat on fb or whatsapp.

  6. #36
    Filip,

    I sent you a PM.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •