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Thread: Live edge dining table - questions

  1. #16
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    OP needs to say where he lives. His local humidity could be anything and that makes a big difference in how dry the wood should be before using it. In my area 15% seems awfully high since summer humidity over 40% is considered very swampy here but 90 miles towards the coast humidity can easily be much higher. We get no dew here all summer long.
    Bill D.
    Modesto , CA. USA

  2. #17
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    That's what I was thinking maybe it's as good as it will get with the MC. You don't need our suggestions all you need is curiosity,good energy and uncertainty. It's the surprise at the end that keep us coming back.
    Good luck
    Aj

  3. Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    ... There is room for good design and good function in this style...
    There is, when it is inspired, but that is extremely rare as most comes out looking contrived, unfinished and DIY crude.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  4. #19
    <p>
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    OP needs to say where he lives. His local humidity could be anything and that makes a big difference in how dry the wood should be before using it. In my area 15% seems awfully high since summer humidity over 40% is considered very swampy here but 90 miles towards the coast humidity can easily be much higher. We get no dew here all summer long. Bill D. Modesto , CA. USA
    </p>
    <p>
    I live in NJ on the coast and the tree came from NJ. I was told it was cut down 7 years ago and milled 4 years ago. And since then has been air drying properly. Was contemplating taking the slabs to a mill with a kiln just to get the MC a little lower before I start working it.</p>

  5. #20
    Where in NJ are you? I'm from Joisey too!

    What thickness are those pieces?

    If the slabs are < 2" thick, then IMHO I would not bother with the KD. If they have milled and air dried for 4 years, it surpasses any rule of thumb I would go by.
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 12-06-2017 at 9:07 AM.

  6. #21
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    Michael

    15%-20% for 'Jersey is probably about right. To lower the MC below that will require Kiln, or a DH's environment. ( You could always bring them in house for a few months. )

    I think some folks might be misinterpreting Andy's comments a little bit, as a generalized criticism. I don't see them that way.
    Live edge, just for the sake of live edge, can be a mistake. The rest of the design elements have to be present, or it just looks like someone was trying to "effect" a look. Overdone as Andy stated. Grain direction and figure, edge appearance, finish type and quality, having chairs that compliment the table, ad it's final setting, are essential, or it can end up looking "hackish".
    There is no hiding anything in a live edge table. It's all there. The edge itself has to have an element of it's own, and you're only going to find that out once you begin the edge preparation. Not every rough sawn slab of wood is a candidate for a live edge piece of work.
    I've done a few live edge pieces for my wife, who if possible would want to keep the bark,moss, and lichen,intact, and one very large table top. It's not my cuppa', so to speak, but I can appreciate the form when it is executed well.
    I think Andrew has the best advice;
    Give the project a whirl and see how it looks in the end. If you like it, that is all that matters.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 12-06-2017 at 9:52 AM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Where in NJ are you? I&#39;m from Joisey too! What thickness are those pieces? If the slabs are < 2&quot; thick, then IMHO I would not bother with the KD. If they have milled and air dried for 4 years, it surpasses any rule of thumb I would go by.
    oh cool! I am in Manahawkin. The boards are 2 inches thick. I was going to originally make like a 6-7 ft table but these boards are so long, I will probably just cut them to that length and do a coffee table as well. So if I cut them I&rsquo;ll probably just bring them in the house for a while and let them dry out a litttle more before I start working on them. But if 15% is going to be normal for this area then I&rsquo;ll just go with that and see what I come up with. Do you think I will have any issues with warping/cracking/splitting? I do plan to use butterfly keys on any slots that are splitting already but there is not much. I will finish both sides as well and use a base that allows for movement.

  8. #23
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    Michael

    As long as you allow for expansion and contraction, across the top, and design it into the base, you should have no issues.

    Bringing them into the house is a good idea. No many folks have this flexibility.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  9. #24
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    In my opinion live edge requires a lot of work to make a successful piece. More often than not I believe a slab requires modification to the overall shape and refinement to the "live edge" itself. c2.jpgHere is a picture of my last live edge piece I made for myself. The top is 48" x 28" x 2" at least it would be if the oval was complete.

    Even here in Florida I would expect a 2" slab to be down around 12% after 4 years. The pictured slabs look more like maple to me than oak, but that is just a guess.
    Andrew Gibson
    Infinity Cutting Tools

  10. #25
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    [QUOTE=Andrew Gibson;2751749]In my opinion live edge requires a lot of work to make a successful piece. More often than not I believe a slab requires modification to the overall shape and refinement to the "live edge" itself. c2.jpgHere is a picture of my last live edge piece I made for myself. The top is 48" x 28" x 2" at least it would be if the oval was

    Very good looking table Andrew. I like it.
    Aj

  11. #26
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    I’ve enjoyed live edge since I first saw it, I don’t make much of it but occasionally;

    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #27
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    Bark is removed by light prying with chisels and sharp blades. The edges by hand using a progression of rasps and then some finish sanding. Very comfortable to sit adjacent to, eat from and rest arms upon. Waterlox OSF is my go to finish for tables and counters that are likely to experience wet glasses and normal abuse.

    Andy -a bit of caution- using absolutes and glittering generalities puts one in a very precarious position as does attempting to dictate what is art and what is good and what is not. You might consider framing your thoughts/beliefs? with IMHO or a similar disclaimer unless, of course, you have actually been anointed as the one true purveyor of truth and beauty.
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    Last edited by Bill McNiel; 12-07-2017 at 2:36 PM.

  13. Quote Originally Posted by Bill McNiel View Post
    ...Andy... You might consider framing your thoughts/beliefs? with IMHO...
    When everyone is required to prefix each and every opinion with "IMHO" I will reluctantly do so.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  14. #29
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    We shouldn't have to defend our opinions, that's my opinion and I'm sticking with it.

  15. #30
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    I don’t mind the opinions being stated at all, even if I don’t agree.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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