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Thread: Kreg Screws Move allignment

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Christensen View Post
    i always throw a few domino's in so I do not have to try to fight this - dowels also work
    Why double down with dominoes and pocket screws? I’d think that the domino would suffice (go easy on me I’m a newbie to woodworking”

  2. #17
    If you’re using 2 screws per joint, drive the first screw in but stop just after it crosses the joint. Then drive the second screw in part way and go back and tighten the first one. This usually works for me.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Van Cronk View Post
    Why double down with dominoes and pocket screws? I’d think that the domino would suffice (go easy on me I’m a newbie to woodworking”
    I sometimes use dominoes with pocket screws too. The domino provides the strength, the screws let me assemble without clamps and keep moving while the glue dries. Sort of the best of both worlds in some situations.

  4. #19
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    I build kitchen cabinets with all the face-frames assembled and attached to the carcasses with pocket screws. I can echo others comments on clamping.

    I built an MDF assembly table as an auxiliary top to my old bench with a low fence on 2 edges. The fences were exactly perpendicular and allowed me to start assembly with a known square corner, and then work out from that point. All of the frame pieces were clamped face down, tight to the table at both ends, and to the fence(s), so there was no twist or deflection. The front faces of adjoining pieces register off of a common flat reference. ...Probably lots of ways to get there, but this worked for me.
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  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Kortge View Post
    Jim, which direction is the material moving for you? Away from the pocket hole side? Toward the pocket hole side? Or at 90 degree angles from the pocket hole side? Or a combination of these?
    Its moving down, or in the direction of the screw. These are perpendicular pieces, so yes away from the pocket.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Krawford View Post
    If you’re using 2 screws per joint, drive the first screw in but stop just after it crosses the joint. Then drive the second screw in part way and go back and tighten the first one. This usually works for me.
    That makes a lot of sense having the screws work with each other early on to help control potential movement. I'll be using the Kreg pocket screw system for the first time, so I'll keep the above comments in mind, especially yours.

    Thanks to all, a good thread indeed.
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  7. #22
    I don't have slippage issues as long as use the vise grip style clamps that came with my Kreg jigs. I also found that off brand screws generally don't work as well as the Kreg screws. If you are gluing your joints that are being screwed, back off on the amount of glue you apply and/or spread it with a brush so it is a thin layer on each half of the joint so it doesn't act as a lubricant in the joint due to too much liquid.
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  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Riseborough View Post
    Its moving down, or in the direction of the screw. These are perpendicular pieces, so yes away from the pocket.
    Somewhere ... a long time ago ... I saw a recommendation to clamp an "anchor" board on the receiving material so it prevents the pocket hole material from moving away from the pocket hole. Makes sense, though a bit more work.

    Aha! Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWI6QppYBFE
    Last edited by Ken Kortge; 12-05-2017 at 6:54 PM. Reason: Found it!

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Jensen View Post
    For me the Kreg screw system just doesn't work. The only way to keep a joint from eventually slipping for me was to glue and screw. And with they you are often counting on end grain glue success. The physics are such that the screw wants to move the joint. Once I got a domino I gave up on the Kreg system. I may some day get a Castle system.
    I want a castle when I grow up. It is a two part process, but seems much more stable.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Krawford View Post
    If you’re using 2 screws per joint, drive the first screw in but stop just after it crosses the joint. Then drive the second screw in part way and go back and tighten the first one. This usually works for me.
    I've found this to work well. Don't completely tighten until a couple screws are in.
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  11. #26
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  12. #27
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    That bench-top version looks nice, Larry. Thanks for posting it. Folks will likely need to construct some material support for longer/bigger materials, of course, but that holds true for even the floor models of many kinds of machines.
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  13. #28
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    I suppose I must be a a genius or have the magic touch but I never have problems with the wood slipping while installing pocket screws. I clamp the joint just as if I were gluing it right before driving the screws. When I release the clamps, the wood doesn't change. I am happy with the Kreg jig and feel no need to switch to some other brand. I couldn't imagine using pocket screws if I were using either dowels or dominos. Either is stronger and looks better, correctly installed.

  14. #29
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    Id pay attention to the rpm of your driver for your Kreg screws too. You want 2000rpm or more.

  15. #30
    One of the main mistakes people make when drilling the hole for the Kreg screw is to drill through. This is incorrect. Your hole should be about 1/8" shy from poking through. What this does is it makes a tight hole when the screw pokes though and engages the board you are clamping to.

    Another secret is keep the clamp on the joint for about a minute after the screw is sert so the glue has time to set up a bit.

    Someone else mentioned to not use to much glue on the joint because it'll act like a lubricant. I agree with this.

    You also have to make sure the two boards you are joining are pressed tight against each other. If there is a gap, even a small one, it will let the board misalign when the screw finally pulls them together.

    I use the Kreg vise type clamp to hold the two boards in alignment. There are two plates on the clamp. A large one and a smaller one. The large one goes on the side without the screw and the small one on the side with the screw. The small plate should be just under the pocket hole when it's clamped. The pressure should be tight, but you don't have to kill it either.

    Don't drill the hole through the board.
    Don't use excessive glue.
    Make sure the boards are in tight contact.
    Make sure the clamps are in the proper place.
    Wait a minute or two for the glue to set after you set the screw.

    I use the 10.8v micro Makita impact driver to drive the screws.
    I usually have less than 5 thou of slippage. The last job I did was a veneered plywood wainscoting. The veneers are 17 thou thick, so you really need to be careful about slippage. I didn't have a single sand through in 52 feet of wainscoting.
    Last edited by Leo Graywacz; 12-08-2017 at 1:05 AM.

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