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Thread: Just ordered a MM16 - what do i need to do when it arrives

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Berti View Post
    Apologies for my ignorance: who is selling the new MM 16 bandsaws today? I was under impression that minimax were out of business... Or was it Agazzani ?
    MiniMax is a brand name of SCM and they are very strong. In fact, the whole reason for this sale is that they are doing some slight rebranding which will make the MiniMax name even more visible. Sales in the US are "direct", but generally handled by reps like Sam Blasco.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #32
    I also bought the MM16 during the sale and worked with Sam (awesome experience - also bought my CU300 from him a few years ago). I am still waiting , and currently my saw is 'on the water' according to SCM. It supposedly will get into port late Dec. so I have some time to prepare.

    My burning concern is how to get the saw vertical. Anyone with experience on this - is 2 guys enough to lift it to an upright position? Do you break down the crate first or leave it in the crate when you lift it?

    Jim, on your 1/2" blade (Diemaster 2?) do you track it with the teeth off the tire or do you run it in the middle of the tire?
    Thanks again for the help guys - this thread has been a big help!
    Scott
    Last edited by Scott Allen27; 12-05-2017 at 11:05 AM.

  3. #33
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    Scott, two strong people can generally tilt the machine up; having a third isn't a terrible idea just to make it easier and safer. However, if you pick it up at the terminal, have it in your truck or on your trailer on its spine...then you can just use gravity to tilt is up as you take it off the truck or trailer and it will already be upright, especially if you can get the machine into your shop while still on the conveyance. I used that method with all three of my MiniMax machines, including a 1500 lb sliding table saw.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Gatineau, Québec
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    ... to Scott's second question regarding positioning of the blade: I run the blade with the teeth off the tire. I only go with "middle of the tire" with narrower blades (1/4 and less).

    Hope this helps!

    Jacques

  5. #35
    Thank you Jim! That’s news to me.
    How can I contact Sam Blasco? Does he have a website?

  6. #36
    Mike, I ordered my MM16 from Sam as well, great experience and amazing machine. sam.blasco@scmgroup.com

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    columbia, sc
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    Thanks Jim I’ll check that out

  8. #38
    I have the MM16 as well and find it frustrating that you have to remove the plastic insert to tilt the table which is a pain and it leaves the workpiece unsupported. Perhaps i am doing something wrong. Is there a way to tilt the table without removing the insert?

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sanjeev Agarwal View Post
    I have the MM16 as well and find it frustrating that you have to remove the plastic insert to tilt the table which is a pain and it leaves the workpiece unsupported. Perhaps i am doing something wrong. Is there a way to tilt the table without removing the insert?
    Unless there would be a very wide slot for the blade (undesirable from a work support standpoint, it would be hard to accomodate this on a big saw...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #40
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    Iirc Sam recommended making an insert for each angle.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Austin, TX
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    Contrats on the MM16 - I love mine. The advice for the electrical is spot on - 30 amp and you supply the 10 ga power cord. I also second the advice for a Lenox 1-1/4" carbide resaw blade. I have one on my MM16 and it ran through some 12/4 mahogany like a hot knife through butter a few days ago. Having help standing it up is also a must. I lucked out since I'm in Austin - the MiniMax guys delivered mine and stood it up for me . Have some de-greaser on hand as the table is covered in goo to protect it.

  12. #42
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    May 2004
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    columbia, sc
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    I finished the electrical wiring yesterday — Amazon makes those twist lock connections affordable. Now I just need to pick up some 10 gauge rubber cord to make the cord-plug for the saw.

    Lennox blades should arrive soon. I ordered two — a narrower steel and a wider carbide.

    My next big upgrade I think is replacing my 15 year old Unisaw with a Sawstop. I have a sister that wants to start using my shop some and that’s enough to further motivate me to upgrade.

  13. #43
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    Bob, I get the rubber cord from Home Depot...sold by the foot. BTW, when preparing the rubber cord, be very, very careful when you're removing the rubber from the conductors. You don't want to nick the (colored) insulation on the conductors, so take your time and use a very sharp blade so you can work things slowly and lightly. Get the rubber thin enough and bending it will split away the final little bit that surrounds the conductors.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Hijack Alert! - Bryan H: How long ago was this? Is the Austin MM depot still open? I got my MM 16 there years ago and tried to find it gain a few months ago and could not find it. I also could not find an address/phone number on the greater SCMI/MM web site.
    David

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Eisenhauer View Post
    Hijack Alert! - Bryan H: How long ago was this? Is the Austin MM depot still open? I got my MM 16 there years ago and tried to find it gain a few months ago and could not find it. I also could not find an address/phone number on the greater SCMI/MM web site.
    AFAIK, everything's in Atlanta now for a long time. Sam happens to live "not to far" from Austin, but does what he does from his own place. Same was true for Erik prior to him leaving the firm.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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